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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - hack my ride
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

hack my ride

hack my ride

Postby Gibson99 » Sun Sep 27, 2009 7:54 pm

we are going 100% DIY on this one...

breadboard
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high tech fastening system
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it's all about the wires
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what i'm up to...

things i've learned so far:
- breadboarding is about 1000 times faster than soldering when it comes to prototyping
- i am only marginal at soldering
- it matters which way you try and feed power through an IC :roll:
- when soldering something together at 1am it's easy to make mistakes and fry shtuff. (at least i didn't let the magic smoke out...)
- from now on i will be testing stuff on a breadboard before i even pick up the soldering iron
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Postby Ilovemylara » Sun Sep 27, 2009 8:05 pm

so does it work?
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Postby Dawgz » Sun Sep 27, 2009 8:09 pm

wait, i dont get it...what are you trying to create?
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Postby Ilovemylara » Sun Sep 27, 2009 10:03 pm

o2 simulator
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Postby PhreakdOut » Sun Sep 27, 2009 10:07 pm

Dude, your radio already gets AM stations. What are you trying to do?

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Postby Gibson99 » Mon Sep 28, 2009 4:04 am

Ilovemylara wrote:so does it work?


i'll know either tonight or tomorrow night after driving it a bit... hopefully this should cure the p0420 code. :)
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Postby Midias » Mon Sep 28, 2009 4:11 am

^ Sweet antifoulers work well too
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Postby Gibson99 » Mon Sep 28, 2009 4:26 am

Midias wrote:^ Sweet antifoulers work well too


not if your o2 sensor is cross-threaded and you can't unscrew it... believe me i tried...
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Postby Gibson99 » Mon Sep 28, 2009 7:33 am

PhreakdOut wrote:Dude, your radio already gets AM stations. What are you trying to do?

Confusing normal people with technobabble since 1921


you trying to say something? ;)

and yes, my radio does get AM. in fact that's mostly what I listen to when I'm not listening to MP3s, since FM radio is crap in houston. not in terms of reception, just content.
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Postby Eye8Pussies » Mon Sep 28, 2009 11:53 am

let us know if it works...I'm thinking about picking up an o2 sim soon too since my o2 sensor and part of the harness got ripped off when my exhaust got ripped off in nyc lol
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Postby Gibson99 » Mon Sep 28, 2009 12:15 pm

well i'm not simulating the heater element yet - my o2 sensor is still there but the signal wire is no longer connected at the ecu. but simulating the heater is just one resistor, so i could add that no problem. i just need to figure out how much power the heater should be drawing so i get the right size resistor. i have a feeling a little 1/4w resistor won't cut it heh.

ripped off... stolen?
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Postby Eye8Pussies » Mon Sep 28, 2009 12:57 pm

lol

nope....nyc roads....my entire catback got ripped off on a bridge...then drove 14hours home to toronto without an exhaust....not fun....



and let us know how it goes....I'm too lazy to ask my electrical eng friends to help me out. if you can figure everything out, it'd make it easier...lol
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Postby 99BlackSandv6 » Mon Sep 28, 2009 2:09 pm

Bread boarding is the way to go when it comes to prototyping.
My brother and I built a guitar stompbox on a breadboard.
Way better than the alternative.
Trust me, I'm a technician.
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Postby Midias » Mon Sep 28, 2009 2:30 pm

Gibson99 wrote:
Midias wrote:^ Sweet antifoulers work well too


not if your o2 sensor is cross-threaded and you can't unscrew it... believe me i tried...


Ha ha ha ha crappy
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Postby Gibson99 » Mon Sep 28, 2009 8:57 pm

Eye8Pussies wrote:let us know how it goes....I'm too lazy to ask my electrical eng friends to help me out. if you can figure everything out, it'd make it easier...lol


so far so good. i expected my CEL to come back on, and it did. but that's because my EGR system is blocked off. but right now that's the only code, and catalyst monitoring shows COMPLETE! i'm gonna drive it this way for the rest of the week and read the codes again and make sure that EGR is the only code i have, and if so, i'm gonna go ahead and solder it all up and mount it in the dash!

before anyone asks, NO i do not plan to sell these or even sell kits. like i said, i'm only marginal at soldering, and i don't want to deal with returns on something little like this. you really can buy all the parts at radio shack for about $15 and DIY. click the link in my first post - that's the plan i'm following. i did use different LEDs but they are within 0.1 volt and have the same mA rating, so it's close enough. there IS a little wiggle room in the design. one thing they don't tell you is that the capacitors need to be electrolytic (the only kind that have a polarity), and they need to be 35v not 50v (50's seem to be more common). i couldn't find 35v el.caps at fry's, but resistors and leds are way cheaper at fry's. besides, radio shack seems to be phasing out the electrical components section of the store. they used to take up the entire back of the store. now you're lucky if they have 10 small drawers full of parts. maybe that's why they're renaming themselves "The Shack".

now i CAN take detailed pictures of my pcb once i'm done so you can see a good way to lay out the parts - that was the hardest part for me - figuring out ways to route components without using jumper wires. turns out there's no other way to bridge 2 of the pins on the chip, so i had to use a jumper - you can see the gray wire going over the black chip in the center.

so i guess that means i need to figure out how to use macro mode on my camera...
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