10 year plug spark plug change

[platypusfetch]

Lookin over the car. did the timing belt already, recently done Brakes, Front and Rear. My car just turned 100,000KM.
I think that after almost 10 years, she would probably appreciate new plugs and wires. Has anyone had the Stealership do this? What is the damage? I am worried that 10 years of them sitting in their plug holes, that I do not want to do this in my -10c driveway........

[no_escape]

I've personally never had anyone change my plugs since I bought my first car in 1999. The dealership is gonna rape your wallet for such a simple job. However, they will use Densos. Which the car came with from the factory.

Ask for any specials that involve changing the plugs to see if you can save afew $$$.

Does any of your friends have a garage you can use for 30-45min?

[Midias]

I think I remember the dealer quoting parts + 80 in labor for my friends mom's 98 camry v6

[Chinky420]

do it yourself

for the $80+ you will spend for the stealership, you can buy the plugs, and the tools to do it, and a 6 pack to enjoy while you undertake the task

if you can do your own brakes and timing belt, then this shouldn't be much more difficult.

just be sure to buy the right tools for the rear bank, if you do it yourself (socket wrench extensions, 3" and 6" both)

it takes all of an hour to do the change. 10 minutes on the front three plugs (if v6) and about 50 minutes on the rear plugs (and wires if you're gonna do those too).

if 4cyl, then it'll probably take less time, but i'm not positive since i drive a v6.

[platypusfetch]

I have NEVER paid to have plugs done. EVER. All I am worried about is twistin the threads out of the plug holes, ESPECIALLY on the back bank. ( I have the V6 as well)

while you are all here, any tips or hints on the back bank.... seems to be a pain in the A$$ no matter which way I look at it. I have Gorilla Paws ( XXL gloves are tight) and I think I am setting up for a nightmare scenario

[Chinky420]

uhmmm,
1) read the DIY (you prob did already)
2) get the proper tools (3" socket wrench extension, 6" socket wrench extension, probably a socket-wrench-pivot peice so that you don't have to be at a right angle to turn it)
3) take off your strut bar (maybe not, i didn't for mine, but i have skinny hands/arms)...you may also want to go as far as unbolting the intake manifold if you got xxl mitts.
4) do two of them from the driver side, and the last one from the pass. side
5) might as well do the plugs at the same time

and when you say you're worried about twistin the thread out of the plug holes, do you mean you're afraid of stripping the plug hole?
i personally didn't use a torque wrench, and firmly tightened by feel.....nothing bad has happened (yet, for the last 25k miles).

[TLMNICK]

I agree with the others....do it yourself, and save the money. It might take you a little longer, but you'll save yourself some money...I woudlnt worry about stripping the threads on the plugs...you wont strip them on the way out....but if the new plugs dont go in easy...then you know you're crossthreading...just take it out, and try again.

[Chinky420]

....but if the new plugs dont go in easy...then you know you're crossthreading...just take it out, and try again.

duh...yeah, this is probably what you were talking about.


i didn't even think about it, because i threw a solution into the equation as i went along.

what i did was this (and i do this a lot with most screw on caps, including sodas and such when i'm not looking at what i'm doing with my hands):
for fear of crossthreading, i removed the pivot peice, and held onto the extensions (both extensions put together should have it sticking out of the engine a bit)...as i held the extensions, i lined it up with the center of the hole as best i could, and i threaded it backwards (so that the threads would all be loose, and one wouldn't be slightly lower than the others). then after i was satisfied that the plug was sitting evenly on the top of the threads, then i would proceed to screw downward.

if i felt like i caught a hitch where it was still turning, but kinda unevenly then i would take it out and rethread as mentioned above.

the hard part is getting out the plugs. if you can put in the new plugs, it won't take more than 3-5 minutes per plug to make sure it's lined up right to prevent crossthreading.

once i was sure it was in the hole evenly, i would put the wrench back on and tighten with the wrench (and/or pivot peice attached, depending on amount of ease).

[no_escape]

I think he's more worried about the cold (-10c) and breaking the threads.

[Chinky420]

^^then do it in your garage, after running your car for about 20 minutes and letting it cool down for about 15 minutes (or until it's warm to touch, and possible to work on).

[Midias]

I use a piece of vacuum hose over the end of the plug to thread it in. The hose acts like a universal joint and does not attach tight enough to across thread. Sim ilar to the picture below but my hose only goes over the metal nub there the wire makes contact.

[ASG14]

Um, it;s goign to cost you liekly around $300+ parts at the dealer. DIY or go to a mechanic. Hell, have one of the guys on this forum do it for ya and throw then $50.

[Jai_Jai_Binks]

If its a 1mzfe, then forget about DIY (this for a person who asks this q - I'm presuming has never changed it). The rear one's are b!tch!. Just buy some good plugs + ignition wires and go to a local mechanic and WATCH him do it. I'm of the thought: if you gotta ask, the rear ones on 1mz's aren't the easiest to change.

[Jakecallun20]

I've changed the plugs on 2 1MZ's and the rears are a pain, but not impossible. Just takes some ingenuity. Its really all about commen sense, if the wrench doesn't fit right, add/subtract the extensions till you get it right, I needed up to 9" of extension pieces. Oh, and I highly reccomend Denso IK20's or IK22's for boosted applications. I've had my IK20's in my motor for about 13k miles and not a single problem.