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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Stupid Sludge...
Stock talk about the Generation 1 and 1.5 Toyota Solara which were produced from 1999 to 2003.

Stupid Sludge...

Postby Loss4wrds » Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:05 pm

better pics

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Postby Loss4wrds » Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:11 pm

I read the seafoam can and it didn't say how long to use it in the crankcase. 500-1000mi? What would you do? As long as i can get the same 25mpg I am getting now i am not really worried about the sludge.
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Postby rewmomi » Tue Nov 25, 2008 12:11 am

well if i were you i would go to autozone they have a special on casrtol oil and a uralator filter for like 16 bucks get like 3 sets of those then change your oil with it and add the amount of seafoam it says you need to add and then run it a thousand miles then do it until u run out of product and check to see if you crank case is as black? thats what I would do?
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Postby Loss4wrds » Mon Dec 01, 2008 11:54 am

Well I added a half can of seafoam to the crankcase. I haven't had the oil light flicker that I had picked up after the valve cover gasket change. So that's a good thing. I have only put 100mi on the car since the gasket change, filter change, and adding the seafoam. I should have close to 500mi on it by the end of the week. I plan to drop the oil pan and clean the screen on the oil pickup and clean out the pan, change the filter again, and use the other half of a can of seafoam on the intake.
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Postby rewmomi » Mon Dec 01, 2008 11:28 pm

put it straight into the oil bro and after 1000 it should be black. Just change oil and filter every 1k miles and do it 3 times each time puting a half can of seafoam in each change
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Postby Loss4wrds » Thu Dec 04, 2008 10:14 am

So was looking thru my repair manual for the Solara and it says that there is a 2 peice oil pan. From what I see in the book it looks like there is a steel pan then there is an aluminum extension with what looks like a windage tray built in under the crank.

I had only planned on dropping the steel pan to clean it out and the oil pick up and screen. Do you guys think it is worth the extra efffort to drop the extension and windage tray? Looks like a pain the the ass to me.
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Postby Loss4wrds » Mon Dec 08, 2008 1:41 pm

So dropped the lower steel oil pan. Cleaned it out as best I could. The screen on the oil pick-up was almost completely clogged. it took 2 cans of carb spray to get the screen clean. But I deffinately noticed a diffrence. When starting the car on a cold morning sometimes it would take almost a full 10sec for the oil light to turn off. This morning it wasn't as cold but the oil light kicked off in less than a second. The same thing every start today almost before I stop cranking the motor the oil light clicks off. That has got to help out.
Seafoamed the manifold and the smoke it cranked out was double that of any other car I have ever used seafoam on. It smoked like crazy for almost 10 miles. Guess i will need to do it again in an oil change or two.
Looks like the rear valve cover gasket is leaking so I will need to change that one when I have time. I am dreading pulling the intake to get to the rear cover. It seems like ivery hose I touch ripps and every plastic clip breaks as soon as I touch them. Makes of allot of unwanted and unexpected delays.
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Postby Ransom8707 » Mon Dec 08, 2008 1:44 pm

I have never really pulled my valve out so, how do you ahead and clean all the sludge up??
Any special chemicals involved or do you use Palmolive kitchen soap? :lol:
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Postby Midias » Mon Dec 08, 2008 1:57 pm

Loss4wrds wrote:So dropped the lower steel oil pan. Cleaned it out as best I could. The screen on the oil pick-up was almost completely clogged. it took 2 cans of carb spray to get the screen clean. But I deffinately noticed a diffrence. When starting the car on a cold morning sometimes it would take almost a full 10sec for the oil light to turn off. This morning it wasn't as cold but the oil light kicked off in less than a second. The same thing every start today almost before I stop cranking the motor the oil light clicks off. That has got to help out.
Seafoamed the manifold and the smoke it cranked out was double that of any other car I have ever used seafoam on. It smoked like crazy for almost 10 miles. Guess i will need to do it again in an oil change or two.
Looks like the rear valve cover gasket is leaking so I will need to change that one when I have time. I am dreading pulling the intake to get to the rear cover. It seems like ivery hose I touch ripps and every plastic clip breaks as soon as I touch them. Makes of allot of unwanted and unexpected delays.



Very nice I am glad you are taking the time to take care of her. Personally for hoses I love these
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=37909

They take hoses off no prob and don't hurt them. The intake manifold is not too bad I pulled it not too long ago to replace a knock sensor. If you do pull it get some new plugs they are much easier to change with the manifold off.

After you run some more seafoam are you going to take some after pics?
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Postby Loss4wrds » Mon Dec 08, 2008 2:14 pm

I didn't do much of anything with what was under the valve covers because I was afraid that I would knock stuff down into the motor. For the oil pan I used carb spray, dish soap, steel wool, plastic scraper, and compressed air. Got it as clean as I could, dried it all off really well and re-installed. I am going to change the oil every 2k mi or so for a while and may try some oil treatment products. But other than that I am going to see how far it goes before I have to get a JDM engine. I've seen them from $700-$1200.

On a side note how can I tell if my car is Cali spec?
What would it say on the emisions stickers under the hood or what can I look at to see mechanical diffrences?
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Postby Loss4wrds » Mon Dec 08, 2008 2:20 pm

I may pull the front cover again to take some after pics in a few months after I have done some oil changes and somemore seafoam or other sludge removal agents have been ran thru it. If and when I pull the back valve cover I will take pics of what it looks like back there.
Just changed the plugs a few weeks ago before i found my sludge issue. They were a PIA.
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Postby Loss4wrds » Mon Dec 22, 2008 2:14 pm

So it looks like I am going to be changing the rear valve cover gasket soon. What else will I need to do besides replace the plenum gasket? Anything else I need to do while I have the plenum off? Any other gaskets or parts I need to take care of while I am there? Already replaced the rear plugs a few weeks back so that's taken care of.
Thanks,
Brian
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Postby Midias » Mon Dec 22, 2008 2:34 pm

^

I would replace the gasket between the upper and lower manifold. Also if you remove the lower manifold I would replace both gaskets that connect it to the head. While you are in there I would replace the big coolant line under the lower manifold. When I last had my manifold off I cleaned it out with about 6 cans of throttle body cleaner and also killed a patch of the lawn about 5 sq feet. I would suggest you clean it as well.

Maybe this will help

http://www.findonefindall.com/toyota-si ... sensor.htm
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Postby Solorange » Mon Dec 22, 2008 5:12 pm

Im sorry to hear about your sludge problem. I didn't know that Toyota put a time limit/milage limit on when they would replace the motor for free. Hope you get it all taken care of.
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Postby ninetynine » Tue Dec 23, 2008 2:15 am

Here's a link that might help you out: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/c ... ludge.html

I hope everything works out!
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