PLEASE READ ASAP if you have a TRANNY TORQUE ROD! IMPORTANT!

[akora12]

Yeah I just dont really get how it would change the feel of normal driving. The only thing I could see it changing is a constant wheel spin for a shorter time vs. a wheel hop for a longer period of time, but I dont really remember much of a difference when i went back. I think the difference I reported initially was all in my head.

Sure was nice having a car that could spin even one tire

Lol, the camry can't do massive burnouts?

For me, the upgraded rod helped when letting off the accelerator w/o pushing in the clutch. With the stock piston the car would jerk pretty hard. With Jim's torque rod, the car still jerks but much less.

A new OEM rod may have cured the problem also because mine seemed to be shot.

[Mr_Krispy1183]

^ I concur with you akora. Mine was shot to hell, I played with the actual strut tube and there was hardly, if any, gas pressure present.

During normal driving, I doubt the rod makes a difference, but from dead stops and for launches, the difference was night and day for me. Punching the gas with the stock strut would give me a bit of engine hesitation then movement, while doing so with the torque rod had the tire(s) hook up and chirp to signal thus. Note: I am a slushbox, so 5-spd. guys I'm sure will have a different take.

[Chinky420]

http://www.solaraguy.com/viewtopic.php?t=38247&highlight=attn+torque+rod

lol, i've had mine welded back together for about 6 months now, no problems, and still going strong.

[SleeperSolara]

Wow.
I should check mine.....
Might draw another one up in CAD or Inventor.

[Eye8Pussies]

http://www.solaraguy.com/viewtopic.php?t=38247&highlight=attn+torque+rod

lol, i've had mine welded back together for about 6 months now, no problems, and still going strong.

ah, yes...I remember that post....but I had presumed that, as you stated in it, it was due to wrong alignment of the rod setting (set too high)

but it seems that even when set without putting undue stress on the mount, it will still eventually break...mine was set so that there was no stress until the engine itself moved (though, admittedly, a constantly broken dogbone could not have helped), and mine never slide side to side on the bottom bolt either even without washers.


I wonder if we could make one out of solid aluminum....hmmm....

[nemoxfishy]

So how far up or how tight should the rod be to prevent this? It might not even be prevented but how do we fix this if it does happen?? I'm no mechanic / i have no idea how to weld... =[

[Eye8Pussies]

I don't think that it's preventable unless you don't really drive your car hard at all...

but by putting less stress on it under regular conditions, it may help it last longer. Basically, when the engine isn't moving, the torque rod should not be supporting the weight of the engine.

[rewmomi]

hey guys so i have a question my tranny is really loose it clanks really loud on the first and second gear but i know there is no problem with the tranny because it shifts well so i am think its the tranny mount but when i looked for parts on ebay i got a pic of the engine mount and on hear i see the pic of the tranny mount right below and to the right of the headers so i am confused?

[pwizzle]

I was about to send payment on this new batch of torque rods, but since this post came up, should I still purchase it? I don't drive my car very hard unless I'm bored on the highway. Would it also help if the dogbone bushing was upgraded?

[Eye8Pussies]

I personally don't think that it's a big issue at all, really.


It's mostly a caution for the ones of us who are pushing more power. And on top of that, people with 5-speeds and upgraded, harder shifting clutches

on your xle, it should benefit without really being an issue on your mount

[Midias]

I was about to send payment on this new batch of torque rods, but since this post came up, should I still purchase it? I don't drive my car very hard unless I'm bored on the highway. Would it also help if the dogbone bushing was upgraded?

I would nnot worry about it with your minimal upgrades and lack of blower you should be fine.

I have not had a problem with my NA one yet but I also padded each side with a poly bushing I will take a pict tomorrow. I will also be checking the bracket and reinforcing it if needed then maybe I will start selling a few reinforced braces on an exchange basis.

[aenties]

Yeah I just bought this for my 98 camry v6. Still going to use it because I have an auto with no major mods really besides suspension and intake. :/

5SPD Swap should be done next summer or so hopefully.

Been there twice

had the one currently in the car welded, and reinforced, it has been in the car for about 3 months of daily driving, and nothing.

I have a spare one that I had on, and it started to crack, which is why I tokk it off. I will be reinforcing that one too.

Hey you just took it to a shop and ask them to reinforce it?

[Chinky420]

I was about to send payment on this new batch of torque rods, but since this post came up, should I still purchase it? I don't drive my car very hard unless I'm bored on the highway. Would it also help if the dogbone bushing was upgraded?

midias is right, you probably wont have to worry about it.

i'm pretty close to stock (intake, tb spacer, ground wires), and the only reason why mine broke was two fold:
1) the height was set up too high .... like, i had lined everything up, then started screwing the bottom nut upwards until it had lifted the trans-mount about 3/16".
2) i like driving my car hard. if your car is shifting after 5k rpms, and the mount is too high, then you're putting a whole lot of stress on that mount. WOT once or twice a week probably won't kill the mount (if the height is right to begin with), but when you're doing it two or three times a day, and the mount is too high...well, it's not hard to see why my mount broke after two months or so.

the dogbone bushings would probably help...and the only reason i say probably is because i haven't upgraded and seen for myself, but it stands to reason that a engine with less vibration/movement/free-play at all mount points will not rattle itself apart as quickly as an engine w/ all the other mounts going bad (except the tq rod, that is).


actually, come to think of it, mine may have broken when i let my dad drive my car, and he didn't let the car come to a complete stop when going from (R) to (D)....which caused a real hard knock (i.e. the engine clunked pretty hard against the mounts). either way, that's another thing you want to be careful about....making sure you don't let the transmission engage drive (if slushbox) while still rolling backwards, even slowly.


don't be discouraged. look at it this way.
OEM is already shot (if gen 1/1.5, it's an old car), so all that extra wear and tear is going to be affecting your engine block and the other mounts.

trading up to the aftermarket tq rod will save the engine a bit of wear, but may break a relatively cheap metal mount.


$30 mount
$2000 engine


and while it's not linear (i.e. if it's not one it doesn't mean it will be the other), i'd rather put the stress and wear on the cheap peice of metal, rather than the expensive one.

[Midias]

When adjusting the tq rod you want to bring the bottom up until it is snug against the metal then tighten it in place. After bring the top down until it touches and tighten that in place. That should prevent the rod from breaking.

[rewmomi]

BUMP!!!!
hey guys so i have a question my tranny is really loose it clanks really loud on the first and second gear but i know there is no problem with the tranny because it shifts well so i am think its the tranny mount but when i looked for parts on ebay i got a pic of the engine mount and on hear i see the pic of the tranny mount right below and to the right of the headers so i am confused?