5w-20 Motor oil

[Jakecallun20]

Alright so my question is....Is running 5w20 motor oil in the 1MZ alright, I accidentally picked up 5 qts thinking it needed 5w20, come to find out later that 5w30 is what it said. So I googled around and didn't see any negative problems from the change, so I went ahead and changed it in. The car seems to be running fine. Also seems to accelerate faster, but that is probably just my butt dyno talkin. So I was just curious if anyone knew anything I should be aware of. Thanks, Jake

[Jakecallun20]

Bump, Anyone have any advice?

[TadS]

That might be a bit thin, but if the motor is in good shape you should be ok. Keep an eye on that oil level to make sure that you're not getting any valve seal leakage, or blow by.

[TLMNICK]

I suggest going easy on the car till you can change it back to 5W30

[gnegroni]

Alright so my question is....Is running 5w20 motor oil in the 1MZ alright, I accidentally picked up 5 qts thinking it needed 5w20, come to find out later that 5w30 is what it said. So I googled around and didn't see any negative problems from the change, so I went ahead and changed it in. The car seems to be running fine. Also seems to accelerate faster, but that is probably just my butt dyno talkin. So I was just curious if anyone knew anything I should be aware of. Thanks, Jake

Toyota is recommending 5W20 (not sure if 0W20) on newer 2AZ-FE engines...This might be particularly due to tighter tolerances on engine. It should be fine for now. Oh, and your butt dyno might be right...I tend to feel the difference in engine mode of operation before and right after changing my synthetic oil after 5k miles.

That might be a bit thin, but if the motor is in good shape you should be ok. Keep an eye on that oil level to make sure that you're not getting any valve seal leakage, or blow by.

I would suggest going back to 5W30 or 10W30 (Toyota recommended for constant Caribbean hot weather). Be wary of the oil level since engine will burn up this oil faster than you are used to. Also keep in mind you are losing protection for the hotter operating range of the engine (stop-and-go traffic, racing, under heavy loads).

[steffknee]

the oil weight just refers to the viscosity of the oil at certain temperatures.

5W20 just means when cold the oil viscosity is rated at 5 and when warm it's rated at 20. It isn't going to make a difference unless you are in an extreme weather environment. Like he said above, if you're in a warmer climate a little higher of an oil weight is a little better.

But there is no harm done in just switching next oil change.

[krawzyazn]

ehh that stuff is pretty thin for your 1mz

[BLACK V6]

Not to thread jack (lol srry) but i switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic a week ago and I was just wondering if you are supposed to feel a difference in ur cars performance? I really dont... Maybe a lil bit...

[Midias]

Not to thread jack (lol srry) but i switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic a week ago and I was just wondering if you are supposed to feel a difference in ur cars performance? I really dont... Maybe a lil bit...

Probably not but it is just a high quality oil that will help protect your engine.

[Jakecallun20]

I suggest going easy on the car till you can change it back to 5W30

Yeah, I switched back today. It sucked, but I couldn't stand knowing the 20 was in there, I could definatley tell the motor was running worse. 103+ degree weather here and with thin oil, just wasn't cutting it. So I took care of it, you guys were thinking everything that was running through my mind. Thanks!

[Chinky420]

^^ good thing. i was goin to say: these ppl may not know about texas summers.

5w20 is too thin for these weather conditions.


but may be passable during the wintertime.

[Jakecallun20]

[quote="Chinky420"]^^ good thing. i was goin to say: these ppl may not know about texas summers.

5w20 is too thin for these weather conditions.


but may be passable during the wintertime.[/quote

Agreed on texas summers, my friend told me that he uses 10W-40 summers and 5W-30 during summers. Idk if I'll do that or not but its something to consider...if 10W will even work with a 1mz.

[gnegroni]

Not to thread jack (lol srry) but i switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic a week ago and I was just wondering if you are supposed to feel a difference in ur cars performance? I really dont... Maybe a lil bit...

Probably not but it is just a high quality oil that will help protect your engine.

My economy went up a few MPG when I changed from dyno oil to synthetic. I believe in synthetics for its better protection for engine, offering possible longer drain intervals but primarily economy.

[Jakecallun20]

Not to thread jack (lol srry) but i switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic a week ago and I was just wondering if you are supposed to feel a difference in ur cars performance? I really dont... Maybe a lil bit...

Probably not but it is just a high quality oil that will help protect your engine.

My economy went up a few MPG when I changed from dyno oil to synthetic. I believe in synthetics for its better protection for engine, offering possible longer drain intervals but primarily economy.

I must not be getting something but I don't understand how oil helps fuel mileage, all it does is lubricate the rotating assembly.

[(K)]

Well put it this way, thicker and dirtier oil makes it harder to rotate. Resistance to rotation would mean there's more power required to overcome that resistance. More power means more fuel being consumed.

That's why all your filter's should always be cleaned so all fluids can flow freely and uncontaminated.

As far as the oil weights go, you'd be fine...for now, but I'd suggest changing back to recommended weight as soon as you can. I wouldn't push the engine too hard in it's current state.

If the weight is too low you run the risk of "shearing" much earlier than the 30 weight. Basically the lubricating properties of the oil become nonexistent. Your parts would wear out faster and all that good stuff that follows as a result.

...make-believe scenario: 0 weight oil is practically water (not really, but for this example it is), 30 weight oil is where you want to be. Eventually after a few thousand miles and hard driving, 30 weight loses it's lubricating properties and becomes 0 weight (water); useless. So the closer you get to 0 weight, the less lubricating properties it has (for all intensive purposes we'll say this is true, even though there are many factors that dictate lubrication). 20 weight (less lube) just puts you THAT much closer to 0 weight.

Confused yet?