Make your own.
Academy sells battery boxes for 7 dollars, Buy Ebay(cheapest) or a audio store 0 gauge wires (17+ feet recommended), and some 4 gauge wires too if you want to do it super right. Then go to pep boys and buy a bunch of connectors ends so that you can bolt it to the car.
I spent about 40 bucks total when I did my relocation WITH 0 gauge wires.
Ground the front engine with 4 gauge to the chassis like a typical grounding kit would do. Ground them on to the meatiest of metal. Run your 0 gauge like you would do if your adding a sub to the back. I ran mine right though the middle of the car since the 0 gauge is HUGE.
To the trunk put the 0 gauge to the + and the run a 0 gauge negative to the meatiest of metal in the trunk. What ever gauge you run the + the - must be the same. If you want to do it even more correct you are suppose to run the negative back to the ground and grounded to the engine. Recommend you put a huge fuse on the + nearest to the battery or with a kill cut of switch.
I know 0 gauge is over kill to some people, but in reality your engine depends on a full complete circuit. Any restriction over time weakens the cables and relays and the alternator which in turn weakens everything else. Do it right or do not do it at all. If done wrong you can ruin your car or worst... FIRE. Has happen and can happen. 4 gauge will work just fine though but a lot of people I work with says they lights still dim over time as battery and components are stress out or weaken due to voltage surges.
0 gauge ftw
by 1gSE » Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:12 am 
QuickSEV6, nice set up, but definitely more than what I need