RE: the "not flushing" advice...
I don't DISAGREE with this advice based on similar information I've heard over the years, but as with anything, it is "relative", or "conditional".
1) IF you have NOT flushed/maintained regularly
2) IF you have an "older" vehicle (by old, I mean even NON-SOLARA old... like big-3 cars of 'yore... etc...)
The reason for #2 is, as one mechanic put it, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". With the A/T's, you could have "conditioning" that takes place with the "older fluid" and clutch packs that "bed's in", and can be COMPROMISED if a full flush is performed, potentially HURTING the performance... Also, as mentioned, CRUD can be loosened and plug an orifice, etc...
In my case, my fluids and maintenance are clean and thorough (for the most part) and I HAVE noticed an improvement in shifting. Both smoother and more "positive" on hard runs through the gears.
Regarding the "butt-dyno" accuracy... I would agree... but have many years of tuning motorcycles through ROAD TUNING, and developed a pretty good sense for when I am "up" or "down" at any given rpm in varying conditions. I have found that some of my street tuned bikes dyno stoichiometric, and actually perform BETTER on the road at speed than DYNO tuned bikes that may net slightly higher PEAK horsepower on a drum. Issue here is, not all bikes perform as well with STATIC or FAN blown air as they do with PRESSURIZED air through the intake... which can change the air/fuel ratio on the street compared to on a dyno.
(Lotta gab to defend my BUTT! HA!)
Best bet, come and drive my 'lara, then decide.
-crisp
