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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Need advice on accel problem.*Update..Posted the codes*
Stock talk about the Generation 1 and 1.5 Toyota Solara which were produced from 1999 to 2003.

Need advice on accel problem.*Update..Posted the codes*

Need advice on accel problem.*Update..Posted the codes*

Postby kohn71 » Thu Mar 20, 2008 1:47 pm

Hi guys,
I'm new to the forums here and really need advice.
I have a 2000 Solara SLE (automatic) and 3 days ago it started losing power on acceleration through the lower gears and especially from take off, it almost wants to stall. You can feel it running rough as you give it gas and can even hear misfires. Once it warms up a little, there is a burnt rubber like smell.
I can't rely on the check engine light since it and the trac light have been on since the brakes were done a year ago. I had it checked out but they said there was a bad wire and/or sensor making the lights stay on.

It has 120,000 miles on it and I need a checklist on what you guys would do first. I'm sure diagnostic is in there somewhere, but I just don't want a repair guy to hit me up with a huge list and not know what the key points could be.
Thanks for help.

I know you like pics so here. Sorry it's dirty. Can't wait till summer.

Image
Last edited by kohn71 on Mon Mar 31, 2008 12:52 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Postby Midias » Thu Mar 20, 2008 1:53 pm

The computer should hold all your codes no matter how many so take it to autozone have them check it for free and report back the codes. We may then be able to help you decide which ones are the problem.

In the meantime check your plug wires for good connection and your ignition coils for damage.
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Postby kohn71 » Thu Mar 20, 2008 2:25 pm

Ok, reallly confused now.
Took it to Autozone. They hooked it up and it said no codes. The check engine light and the Trac off light were both on. Shut off the engine and tried to start it back up to check codes again but the battery died. Changed out the battery and both the check engine light and trac off light shut off.
Was told to come back when the light comes back on again. :x
Driving home and gave it gas around 60 mph and got the check engine light to blink for a sec.
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Postby TRAFFICBLOWS » Mon Mar 24, 2008 6:33 am

My mech talks about how his Snap-On scanner can read soft and hard codes. I'm not really sure of the difference but my handheld scanner (same as what my AutoZone uses) can't read them.

Bad smell? Check intake/emission systems and also for engine fluid leaks.
99 Titanium SLE... 10-yr birthday Aug '08! She's slowly falling apart... :cry:
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Postby 99V6solaraSE » Mon Mar 24, 2008 9:41 am

All the problems could all potentially have something to do with each other or may not. From what ive been told my a friend, who had a similar issues but not as bad, when his CEL is set off, it also set off his trac light.

Did you make sure that when u scanned it the first time that it was in the ON position? and also when your battery died, it subsequently reset all your codes.

and like Midias said, when you scan for it, all codes being set off at the time of scan will show up, whether it was the brake issues from way back when to whatever is causing your problems now.

For your problems you may wanna check your MAF sensor, try cleaning and see what it does. Maybe you have a vac leak? Try checking the condition of your spark plugs and wires. And i suppose it could be a fuel delivery problem. BUt itll be alot easier to tell whats wrong, when you get a scan.
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Postby kohn71 » Mon Mar 31, 2008 12:50 pm

Sorry it took so long. Took it in as soon as the check engine light started staying on.

Just pulled the codes, here they are...

P0300

P0305

P0302

P0135


Thanks for advice so far!
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Postby 99V6solaraSE » Mon Mar 31, 2008 12:59 pm

wow youve got a lot of issues..>

now look and see what they are here.
http://www.solaraguy.com/viewtopic.php?t=16121
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Postby kohn71 » Mon Mar 31, 2008 1:17 pm

Thanks man
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Postby Midias » Mon Mar 31, 2008 1:17 pm

Looks like you have a lot of misfire codes I would bet you have one pack that is bad and feeding 2 cylinders. That would be my first thing to check.

This also makes sense the front bank of cylinders is the even numbers 2 4 6 and you have cylinder 2 and 5 as a problem I will post more after I get home for how to test each coil. Looks like between 60 and 100 for a new coil and about 5 minutes for install.


For now I would forget about the o2 sensor code and concentrate on the misfire.
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Postby Midias » Mon Mar 31, 2008 2:56 pm

Ok looking at the manual I think I am correct ignition coil #1 sends spark to cylinder 2 and 5. I would check all the wiring and if it all looks good replace the coil.
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Postby kohn71 » Mon Mar 31, 2008 3:25 pm

Appreciate it. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks!
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Postby kohn71 » Mon Mar 31, 2008 3:39 pm

Which is ignition coil #1 looking at engine from front..left, middle or right?
Also how in the world do I change the plugs on the firewall side? Looks near impossible to get to em. Is there a trick?

Thanks

I already have a manual on order btw :-?
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