Oil question

[Jakecallun20]

Um, did you just say the check engine light or do you mean the maintenance light (on the Gen2 they're separate idiot lights, I'm not sure about Gen1)?

Yeah, it has a CEL on, but its for some sensor. The lady who owned it had the part replaced but she said there was something that caused the light to go on that was no big deal. It hasn't effected anything and it goes off from time to time. Motor runs fine and drives fine. I've been meaning to have the code ran, just haven't been by Autozone recently.

[Black Bob]

Um, did you just say the check engine light or do you mean the maintenance light (on the Gen2 they're separate idiot lights, I'm not sure about Gen1)?

Yeah, it has a CEL on, but its for some sensor. The lady who owned it had the part replaced but she said there was something that caused the light to go on that was no big deal. It hasn't effected anything and it goes off from time to time. Motor runs fine and drives fine. I've been meaning to have the code ran, just haven't been by Autozone recently.

You really, really should get the code(s) checked out. Just because the car runs fine doesn't mean it's fine, that's what the light is for. Engine computers compensate so much for failures that without the light you wouldn't know anything was wrong.....until it's too late. Example, if a problem is present whereby the fuel-air mixture is too lean the computer will pump in more fuel; you probably wouldn't notice the extra trips to the gas station but eventually the root cause will grow so large that the computer may no longer compensate. I'm not trying to scare you but the last time I took my previous car into Autozone to check an engine code, the manufacturer bought it back. Oops, okay, that's scary but c'mon, you cared enough to change the oil and skim through a TRD catalog for your ride, go get the free analysis. Think of it as a Valentines Day present.

[Midias]

You should consider getting a code reader they are only about 20 dollars on ebay for a basic read and clear device.

[Ivanhoe]

You should consider getting a code reader they are only about 20 dollars on ebay for a basic read and clear device.

Wow, I didnt know they were so inexpensive....Im off to eBay!

[Midias]

You should consider getting a code reader they are only about 20 dollars on ebay for a basic read and clear device.

Wow, I didnt know they were so inexpensive....Im off to eBay!

Here ultra cheap just reads codes and clears them 25 shipped buy it now


Ebay link

[Jakecallun20]

Also, am probably going to go get my car inspected this weekend. Will they give me the code there?

[Midias]

Also, am probably going to go get my car inspected this weekend. Will they give me the code there?

Do you mean state inspection if you do you will most likely have to pass an OBD2 test and if you have a CEL or recently cleared CEL they will fail you. But they will tell you what is causing it.

[Jakecallun20]

Also, am probably going to go get my car inspected this weekend. Will they give me the code there?

Do you mean state inspection if you do you will most likely have to pass an OBD2 test and if you have a CEL or recently cleared CEL they will fail you. But they will tell you what is causing it.

Yeah the state inspection. I am 7 months overdue But this light has been on for a while, and it did pass last time, I'd think it would pass again (I hope)

[Midias]

Yeah the state inspection. I am 7 months overdue But this light has been on for a while, and it did pass last time, I'd think it would pass again (I hope)

Good luck this is what I got off the official texas transportation site. Looks like they are a bit nicer than NY. Here the inspection places send the info to the capitol at the time of inspection and if the light is on instant FAIL.

What systems are checked during the OBDII test?
The On-Board Diagnostics (OBDII) emissions test for 1996 & newer vehicles consists of the following:

Check 1
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or Service Engine Soon Light, Check Engine Light, Check Engine Symbol check
This is considered the bulb check portion of the test. The light must come on when the ignition is turned to the ON position and the light must go OFF when the engine is started. The inspector answers these two bulb check questions as either a PASS or FAIL. If the light is not working, the vehicle will FAIL the test, because the purpose of the light is to alert the driver of the vehicle that there is a problem with the OBDII system (exceeding emissions) and the vehicle needs to be diagnosed and repaired.

Check 2
MIL Command Status and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) check
If the MIL command status is ON, then the vehicle's Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is commanding the MIL to turn ON, because a problem has been detected within the OBDII system and a DTC has been set.
For example, an engine misfire DTC - PO301. If the MIL command status is ON with a DTC set, the vehicle will fail. If the OBDII system is operating properly, the MIL command status will be OFF.

Check 3
OBDII (Non -Continuous) Readiness Monitors check
These monitors are like self checks of each emissions component (EGR, O2 sensor, etc) within the OBDII system. These non-continuous monitors are considered Ready until either DTC's have been cleared with a scan tool or if battery power has been disconnected, then the monitors will reset back to Not Ready.

In order to get the monitors set back to Ready, the vehicle must be driven through a drive cycle, which is a combination of city/highway driving for a set period of time. This drive cycle relearns the OBDII system and rechecks all of the emissions component's individual systems. As each system completes its own self test, the monitor will set back to Ready.

If a problem still exists in any of the individual systems, a DTC will set again once the monitor changes to Ready. If a vehicle has a MIL ON with a DTC set and the owner disconnects the battery to clear the light to try to pass the test, all the non-continuous monitors reset back to Not Ready and the vehicle now fails for Not Ready.

We allow two (2) non-continuous monitors to be Not Ready and still pass the test, but three (3) or more Not Ready's will cause the vehicle to fail.

There are three (3) continuous monitors that are always Ready: Misfire, Fuel System, and Comprehensive Components. If you look at your Vehicle Inspection Report (VIR), you will see the emissions monitors listed and their Ready/Not Ready status. If any of the non-continuous monitors say N/A (Not Available) or N/S (Not Supported), then there is no monitor for that system.

This information is illustrated in a "Ready or Not" poster displayed in all of the emissions testing stations as well as the Recognized Emissions Repair Facilities (RERF's).

Here is your inspection list

1. Horn
2. Windshield Wipers
3. Mirror
4. Steering
5. Seat Belts
6. Brakes (system) (Parking - beginning with 1960 models)
7. Tires
8. Wheel Assembly
9. Exhaust System
10. Exhaust Emission System (beginning with 1968 models)
11. Beam Indicator (beginning with 1948 models)
12. Tail Lamps (2); (1) if 1959 model or earlier
13. Stop Lamps (2); (1) if 1959 model or earlier
14. License Plate Lamp (1)
15. Rear Red Reflectors (2)
16. Turn Signal Lamps (beginning with 1960 models)
17. Head Lamps (2)
18. Motor, Serial, or Vehicle Identification Number
19. 1988 & newer - inspect for window tinting or coating
20. Gas caps on vehicles 2-24 model years old.

[Jakecallun20]

Alright.... so I hate to say that I was wrong and Midias was right. I did fail. Twice. My car's battery disconnected itself 3 days before my inspection and I didn't drive too much between them. I guess not enough to reset everything in the ECU. So when I got inspected, I failed since like 6 or 7 sensors were "Not Ready" So I asked the guy if I could go drive the car then have it inspected again, so I did that and all the sensors checked out except for my CEL came back on, Code came back as PO135 which I believe is O2 sensors. weird, since they were all replaced a year and a half ago. All with brand new Toyota parts. The light just didn't go away. (And yes they were installed correctly) Just for the hell of it, I drove down the street to the local auto store and asked the prices for new O2 sensors and I'm not going to pay 100 bucks a piece right now when my car runs fine. I made the mistake of taking my car to this new guy. I usually drive into Georgetown and have it inspected by this other guy, 50 bucks and he gives you a sticker. Pass or fail. But haven't been there in a year... so, I hope he's still there. I will try in a few weeks.

Just an update on my current situation. Gonna have to get my car up again. Somethin messed up again, and my car lost power again. Not sure what that is about, I think my amp isn't grounded right. I just used a seat bolt with some bare metal underneath. Seems to do the job.