Ack! Really Really Low Idle!!!

[VidGameKing]

So my 2002 i4 with 43K miles is idling arround 500-ish RPMs, and the whole car vibrates, and there is some rattling going on. I know there's no idle adjustment knob, but what is the process for getting this car back up to 750rpm or higher? Will it take a whole lot of work, or is it something I can do at lunch, at work?

- Vid

[Dawgz]

check ur butterfly valve, if its dirty, clean both sides of the valve., clean ur air filter ( or get a new one if u have disposable), if that doesnt work, try the to clean the MAF sensor with some CRC MAF SENSOR cleaner.

[VidGameKing]

where is the MAF sensor? Also I'm using a K&N air filter, in the stock air box. It was new about 4K miles ago.

[Midias]

Start by cleaning your throttle body. You have no MAF as a 4 cly. Then check and replace your plugs. Finally adjust the idle adjustment screw near the throttle rotor.

[Midias]

check ur butterfly valve, if its dirty, clean both sides of the valve., clean ur air filter ( or get a new one if u have disposable), if that doesnt work, try the to clean the MAF sensor with some CRC MAF SENSOR cleaner.

He is a 4 cly no MAF

[VidGameKing]

The plugs are new, as of about 1.5K miles ago.

There is an idle adjustment screw!!! Where is it, exactly?

[Midias]

Start by cleaning your throttle body. You have no MAF as a 4 cly. Then check and replace your plugs. Finally adjust the idle adjustment screw near the throttle rotor.

[Midias]

OK time to be a nice guy

[VidGameKing]

alright, I've looked VERY HARD and could not see anything near my throttle body that looked remotely like that.

Also I have the 2.4L i4 The one with VVT-i The 2AZ-FE. There's no linkage between the gas peddle and the throttle body.

[Midias]

Oh crap I am a total ASS HAT I did not realize you are drive by wire. I guess clean your tb with a good spray down and see what that does.

[VidGameKing]

Well I cleaned my throttle body, and the MAF sensor, but the car still seems to be a bit on the low side for the idle. It's a bit better, but certainly not what it should be. It now dances between 650 to 550 RPMs. Which I guess is better than 500 RPMs.

In any case, I also unplugged the battery for almost an hour to reset the ECU, but it didn't have much effect.

I'm planning on using SeaFoam on the car after christmas I'll put back in the old spark plugs for that and after I'm done I'll do an oil change and put the new plugs back in. I figure I'll just put the SeaFoam in through the vacume tube near the brake booster. I was wondering if that will help though.

I want the car to run at 1000 RPM when it's warming up, and 750 RPM warm. Thats what it's supposed to be!

I noticed the MAF sensor was pretty dirty so I sprayed it down with the carb cleaner, only later to discover I'm not supposed to do that Do you guys think I killed my MAF and I need a new one?

By the way my check engine light is not on, and it has never to my knowledge gone on (except when I first put the key in the ignition)

[Jakecallun20]

650 does seem unusually low, but it should be fine. I dont think you'll need to put the old plugs back in, just make sure they are installed right. Make sure the wires are also correct too. GL hope you get this resolved.

[VidGameKing]

Did I mention the whole car shakes, and makes the empty passenger seat bounce arround? Did I mention there's a knocking noise from the engine bay when the idle is low?

At 750 everything is smooth, but I can't get the stupid thing to stay there!

[Midias]

What plugs are you using now?

[VidGameKing]

NGK Iridium IX BKR6EIX-11

But I was using the NGK Iridium IFR6A-11

I was told they were more or less the same, and the ones I was using were the OEM ones, and the new ones were the after-market OEM replacements...