CP-e extension V6 - DONE w/ pics

[Sebas007]

The temp difference between the spot I choose and in the rear fog area is not enough to start putting 2 x 90 degrees elbow and mess with the flow. The route wouldn't be optimize since it is a 3.5" pipe. 3" pipe barely go thru...like Tacti did on his I4 Solara.

Like I previously measured...
http://www.solaraguy.org/viewtopic.php?t=34432&highlight=cpe+sri+area

Day temp = 78.8
Temp are in F and Speed in MPH (just for you...Americans ! I first make it in metric...I copy it and had the formula to get in US)


S1 = Sensor 1 located in the fog light area
S2 = Sensor 2 located in the CP-e SRI area
S3 = Sensor 3 located in front of the battery

Code: Select all

Speed = 0 MPH (Idle)
    Time (sec)   S1       S2       S3     S2-S1   S2-S3
Test 01   040   81.68   114.08   101.66   32.40   12.42
Test 02   080   84.20   115.34   098.42   31.14   16.92
Test 03   120   84.92   116.78   095.90   31.86   20.88
Test 04   160   86.18   117.68   094.82   31.50   22.86
Test 05   200   87.26   119.30   094.64   32.04   24.66
Test 06   240   88.52   121.82   094.46   33.30   27.36
Test 07   280   90.14   122.00   094.64   31.86   27.36
Average   000   00.00   000.00   000.00   32.01   21.78
                                                                   

Speed = 37 MPH (60KM/H)
    Time (sec)   S1       S2       S3     S2-S1   S2-S3
Test 01   040   84.56   109.76   101.66   25.20   08.10
Test 02   080   82.22   121.28   098.42   39.06   22.86
Test 03   120   81.86   121.28   095.90   39.42   25.38
Test 04   160   81.86   120.92   094.82   39.06   26.10
Test 05   200   81.86   120.20   093.74   38.34   26.46
Test 06   240   81.86   120.02   093.02   38.16   27.00
Average   000   00.00   000.00   000.00   36.54   22.65



Speed = 62 MPH (100KM/H)
    Time (sec)   S1       S2       S3     S2-S1   S2-S3
Test 01   040   86.00   113.72   092.30   27.72   21.42
Test 02   080   81.86   112.82   091.22   30.96   21.60
Test 03   120   79.70   117.86   090.50   38.16   27.36
Test 04   160   79.88   115.88   089.78   36.00   26.10
Test 05   200   79.70   114.62   089.24   34.92   25.38
Test 06   240   79.70   113.72   088.70   34.02   25.02
Test 07   280   79.70   113.18   088.70   33.48   24.48
Test 08   320   79.52   112.64   088.52   33.12   24.12
Test 09   360   79.52   112.64   087.26   33.12   25.38
Test 10   400   79.34   112.46   086.72   33.12   25.74
Test 11   440   79.52   112.64   086.00   33.12   26.64
Test 12   480   79.34   112.46   085.82   33.12   26.64
Test 13   520   79.52   112.28   085.64   32.76   26.64
Test 14   560   79.34   112.64   085.46   33.30   27.18
Average   000   00.00   000.00   000.00   33.35   25.26


Speed = 75 MPH (120KM/H)
    Time (sec)   S1       S2     S2-S1
Test 01   040   80.06   111.20   31.14
Test 02   080   80.24   112.28   32.04
Test 03   120   80.60   111.92   31.32
Test 04   160   81.14   111.20   30.06
Test 05   200   80.96   109.94   28.98
Test 06   240   80.60   108.68   28.08
Test 07   280   80.24   107.60   27.36
Average   000   00.00   000.00   29.85


Bottom line
- More you go faster less the difference between the CP-e SRI area air temp and fog area temp is big. Same tihng with the front of battery area. The average is fu'cked because of the Test 1 at 37 MPH. Air flow is strong eliminating more hot air.

- The potential gain is always bigger in the fog area but remains way more complicated and more restrictive to reach then the front battery area.

- Front of battery area seems to have a good potential and is very easy to reach. It would surely help installing some heat shield and air deflector in the fog area (it would be a bit better).

- Relative humdity is not such a big parameter...was always the same for all the test (fog were always twice %humidity then the CP-e SRI area was)

- Thumb rule : for each 5F diff you got 1% more air dendity. 4% air density = 3% more power (hp).

http://www.hardtail.com/techtips/airdensity.html

Roughly...

Fog area temp potential give around 4.95% more power (hp)
Average of the 3 average (37, 62, 75 MPH) = 33F diff
(33/5) = 6.6% more air density
6.6/ ?? = 4/3
(6.6*3)/4 = 4.95% more power


Front battery area temp potential give around 3.75% more power (hp)
Average of the 2 average (37, 62 MPH (ignoring test 1)) = 25F diff
(25/5) = 5% more air density
5/ ?? = 4/3
(5*3)/4 = 3.75% more power


In my case I evalute I have around 240 hp
CAI in fog area could give around 12 hp at peak but would improve all the RPM band power.
240*0.0495=11.88 hp

CAI in front of the battery area could give around 9 hp at peak but would improve also all the RPM band power
240*0.0375=9 hp

Last thing to check...restriction of the CAI tubing itself. Need to get calculation of my friend engineer...but for many purpose (complexity, restriction, unfriendly install/uninstall) I think to make it like a Long SRI ! Will get colder air and be very easy to make, install and everything.

[Netforcer]

did you also try putting a sensor inside the intake where the MAF is located... doesn't matter how cool the air is... if the MAF reads same temp, then there will be no difference

[Sebas007]

did you also try putting a sensor inside the intake where the MAF is located... doesn't matter how cool the air is... if the MAF reads same temp, then there will be no difference

If the air outside the filter is colder...I give myself a chance to get colder air inside the pipe at the sensor...don't you think ??? Especially if I put some heatshield, againt engine heat "radiation" , along the pipe.

[Midias]

in the past I have used car body undercoat spray to reduce heat on a pipe it is a thick spray on rubber coating

[crispone]

NICE WORK, Sebas!!!


I just caught up on the thread... great execution on the project you have been talking about for some time... (Since BEFORE the crispmongo filter idea???)

A couple thoughts I had...

- Is the only "ground" from battery to the wheel-well pan area?

(I think a lead to the engine block is a good idea, maybe?)

- Is there a 100A (or similar) fuseblock RIGHT NEAR the battery on the positive lead?

(So you won't "fry" stuff if the positive lead gets a "short" somewhere between the battery and the original positive terminal up in the front. A "dead short" on 0, 2, or 4 gage lead to the battery can create a MAJOR ARC and potentially a FIRE RISK, I would think!!!???)

Note: I see the "red switch?", but I don't know if that is a FUSED LINK or not? (Maybe I missed the comment...)

- DEFINITELY find a way to "channel/funnel" COLD AIR from in front or below the engine bay INTO the air filter area... also separating it with some kind of box or partition.

(On my "rough" CAI --> Crisp Air Intake, HA! ...on my supra, I DEFINITELY noticed a difference drawing on air from a scoop under the front right foglight... and HOT TEMPERATURE DAYS have LESS effect on my performance... and when it's COOLER, WOW! )


GREAT STUFF! Keep up the good PIONEERING work on the Solara!


-crisp

[Sebas007]

Thanks Crisp...I just post stage 1 upgrade will come later this week.
for the ground issue...the ground in the trunk is really good...then thing that was messing with was the ground between frame and tranny (where the stock ground is...) I took off for the look and it's why I got problem !! I put it back (I did an other 1-gauge wire for it).

About the fuseblock link...I was thinking about it dont worry...I just hope I will not have bad luck until then...will do it next week. 100A is what you suggest me !? I read once on an other battery relocation experience that he put a fuseblock...I then realize that I didn't have one !! Will try to mess with my current setup...

About improving the cold air intake...I will do a box and put a curvy platic near the fog to route the air flow towards the filter...I think to try and other kind of filter like this one...



What do you think ?? I still dont know...

Thanks for your comment Chris and all the others !! It is all FTW !!

NICE WORK, Sebas!!!


I just caught up on the thread... great execution on the project you have been talking about for some time... (Since BEFORE the crispmongo filter idea???)

A couple thoughts I had...

- Is the only "ground" from battery to the wheel-well pan area?

(I think a lead to the engine block is a good idea, maybe?)

- Is there a 100A (or similar) fuseblock RIGHT NEAR the battery on the positive lead?

(So you won't "fry" stuff if the positive lead gets a "short" somewhere between the battery and the original positive terminal up in the front. A "dead short" on 0, 2, or 4 gage lead to the battery can create a MAJOR ARC and potentially a FIRE RISK, I would think!!!???)

Note: I see the "red switch?", but I don't know if that is a FUSED LINK or not? (Maybe I missed the comment...)

- DEFINITELY find a way to "channel/funnel" COLD AIR from in front or below the engine bay INTO the air filter area... also separating it with some kind of box or partition.

(On my "rough" CAI --> Crisp Air Intake, HA! ...on my supra, I DEFINITELY noticed a difference drawing on air from a scoop under the front right foglight... and HOT TEMPERATURE DAYS have LESS effect on my performance... and when it's COOLER, WOW! )


GREAT STUFF! Keep up the good PIONEERING work on the Solara!


-crisp

[crispone]

^^^ Sebas,

I am not sure if 100A is enough for a starter draw. That is the "typical" car audio 4 ga. fuse... but maybe higher for the starter. I keep thinking of the battery RATING, 550cca, 700cca, maybe you are 1000cca, etc...

SURELY the starter doesn't actually DRAW nearly that high... but if it is SEVERAL HUNDRED draw, perhaps you cannot "fuseable link" it so easily.

I am not experienced with this modification... just thinking as I read your good thread.


Very nice job with the elbow extension! That is a great looking fit!


-crisp

[Sebas007]

I feel better now...I knew it but I just forgot it !!

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D830050&N=700+400304+115&autoview=sku

Battery Disconnect Switch, Rotary, 250 Continuous Amps Rating, Each

Easily shut down current from the battery.
These Summit battery disconnect switches positively shut off all the current from the batteries in the event of a short or accident. Be safe at the racetrack with Summit.


About the elbow...I found a good place on the web located in Florida. Can do 90,70,45 degrees and straitgh pipe. I'm happy cuz all my little calculation ended right !! Yeah my setup is the easiest to do...just 1 elbow...compare to my initial 3-4 elbow setup passing along the radiator...

Like I said I will work on isolation of the filter and the pipe. I still wonder if the open center filter (dont know how I can call it) but this one...

Can help me especially if I do my cold air box ? Need your opinion on this !

G-Tech unit result will coming "soon" (within 2 weeks I think I can make it !)

[[SMAN]]

You can build yourself your own heatshield out of some sheet metal. The real question is do you want to wrap it wround the filter, or if you want to build a box. The only issue i see right now, is it seems as though there isn't a log of air flow into your area. When i did the Cold Air extension on my camry, i cut out part of the metal near the wheel cover to fit it, and put the filter right next to the fresh air hole in the body kit. With your setup, you'll get a little spill off from the gap on the radiator, a little from the gap above the radiotor. But with things sealed up underneith, you are not going to get a huge flow of cold air. So if your going to make a box, you need to make sure you have some sort of cold air supply for it. For the dimensions of the box, i recomend using the template of the battery holder that you attached your ground wire to. And build it strait up and put some sort of a heat resistant foam on the top. This way it's sealed up when your hood is closed. And build it forward along the engine side all the way forward to the edge of the radiator to block out that heat. At that point, all you'll need to figure out is how to get more cold air in from underneith. Perhaps cutting a hole in the spash cover and putting in some sort of round pvc pipe to flow the air upward. Hope this gives you some ideas.

[Sebas007]

Thanks anyhow..

I made all my temp test before choose which location I gonna put the filter. I even use huge engineer software (at my job, my friend is fluid engineer) to simulate the flow of my setup to see if the flow is still the same at the sensor. I do get more then 5% air coming from radiator in this spot. And the air from the fog light where is is the fresher go up in the filter. I will just do an heat shield to bloack the engine radiation more then engine hot air. But it is just little improvement. for the Cold air box I will use first card board to draw the perfect shape...then I will use some aluminum sheet and then some rubber on the top to shape it to the hood.

[PXLpainter]

Sebas - do you still have the OEM plastic shroud under your front bumper installed? Removing that will give you a lot more upward airflow. It does little to protect anything under there anyways - unless you drive a lot of gravel roads out in the country.

[Sebas007]

Sebas - do you still have the OEM plastic shroud under your front bumper installed? Removing that will give you a lot more upward airflow. It does little to protect anything under there anyways - unless you drive a lot of gravel roads out in the country.

I didn't took off the OEM plastic shroud...maybe I can do it for summer...but for winter it may help to avoid salt in the engine bay !