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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Those of you that have installed their AFC controller Gen1-2
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 2 and 2.5 upgrades.

Those of you that have installed their AFC controller Gen1-2

Those of you that have installed their AFC controller Gen1-2

Postby lemmez » Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:11 pm

which method do you guys recommend me using to connect my afc to the ecu.

Crimping method or soldering method?

if crimping:

Which crimping tool should i purchase? i just bought the 7$ one at radio shack and tried it out. It makes horrible crimps. Should i use shrink wrap on top of the butt connectors? What gauge wire is the ecu on a gen 2 18-22?


if soldering:
What soldering kit would you recommend me to buy? what kind of solder?
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Re: Those of you that have installed their AFC controller Ge

Postby Dawgz » Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:48 pm

lemmez wrote:which method do you guys recommend me using to connect my afc to the ecu.

Crimping method or soldering method?

if crimping:

Which crimping tool should i purchase? i just bought the 7$ one at radio shack and tried it out. It makes horrible crimps. Should i use shrink wrap on top of the butt connectors? What gauge wire is the ecu on a gen 2 18-22?


if soldering:
What soldering kit would you recommend me to buy? what kind of solder?



Dont crimp, u dont want to mess with crimping with a controller like this, if ur gonna do it, solder it.

Get a 30watt solder at minimum and a solder that has 50/50 of rosin/led
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Postby lemmez » Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:03 pm

i was just watching a video on how to solder electronic wire and the guy said do not use acid something solder or 50/50.

Why should i use 50/50 solder on the connection between my afc and ecu.
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Postby kingkakyle » Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:05 pm

because rosin is kind of a "glue" to keep it sticking to the wire
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Postby Dawgz » Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:18 pm

Rosin isnt a glue, Rosin is infact a type of acid which will clean the surface u are trying to solder onto. A clean surface is a better surface where the solder can bond to.



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_%28metallurgy%29
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Postby PXLpainter » Tue Apr 29, 2008 12:05 am

Actually you're only partially correct... the rosin core works like a flux when it melts on tin and copper. The acid core is for heavier metals like galvanized sheet and plumbing fittings and should be washed off afterwards to reduce corrosion. ;)
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Postby Down2TheC » Tue Apr 29, 2008 3:40 am

Those little butane irons work great. Heat up quickly, cool down quickly.
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Postby Midias » Tue Apr 29, 2008 5:18 am

You should attach it like I did for my CPE intake in my sig use a quality thin strand lead based solder not a tin silver (200 degree melting difference) I also like to use electrical flux but that is up to you.

For an iron nothing beats a metcal iron NOTHING but they are very expensive so I like weller second. The WES51 solder station is a very good iron I use them a lot at work.

Here



For a crimping tool get a nice klein tool from sears looks like this

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Postby PXLpainter » Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:33 am

Down2TheC wrote:Those little butane irons work great. Heat up quickly, cool down quickly.

I've had my Weller butane for nearly 20 yrs and still works strong... best part is it's cordless! :up:
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