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SAFC II 2 install question + initial settings

SAFC II 2 install question + initial settings

Postby theamazingnate » Thu Feb 12, 2009 3:14 pm

Hey guys - Got a question for you.

Have a 98 5-speed camry CE with a TRD supercharger on it.

Picked up a brand new SAFC 2, and I am looking to install it.

*image deleted - wrong diagram for my ECU*

Things are layed out well here - I would thinkt that is going to be the same on my 98 ECU - even though it is a camry not a solara... I have not gone to install it yet - so I have not looked at the ECU, but if everything lines up in the same place I don't see why this would be wrong. If I am wrong here - somebody please feel free to let me know.

Anyways - had a question for you guys.

On the initial settings - I see the sensor type as hotwire.

I have seen people say it should be set to 12 in / 12 out or 13 in / 13 out or even 15 in / 15 out I believe... I was not sure which one I should use. I have been reading a lot on this unit - and I cannot find out what these numbers represent. What does "12 in / 12 out" mean - and which one would I want to use/why.

I appreciate any response
Last edited by theamazingnate on Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby JamesT » Thu Feb 12, 2009 4:18 pm

It may be different. I know the wiring in mine was different than any diagram I had found on either Solaraguy or ToyotaNation. As for the #in/#out setting, it depends on your MAF sensor (I think). All I know was that if you have the wrong numbers chosen, the car will sputter and die.

The way I found my wiring diagram was to figure out how many pins are on each section of the ECU and in what order. From there, I went to Google and searched (for example) "Toyota 34P 22P 16P 28P".
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Postby akora12 » Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:05 pm

The pin-outs are different between the camry and solara ecu's, but you can probably track down the correct wires like James said above.

I believe the in/out values are for the MAF reading. Most people run 12 (including myself), but I know a few have done 15 with no problems.
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Postby ---CAMRAZY--- » Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:09 pm

wtfuckk!!!! You sold your lexus that was clean as hell to get a camry?? you sir, with respect have failed... lol
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Postby theamazingnate » Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:40 pm

Ok - thanks for the tip on the ECU pinout - i will track that info down :)

As for the in/out values - I understand they are for the sensor/MAF reading - but I just did not know if anybody knows what 12/12 or 13/13 means? What do those numbers stand for - do they have some value as in higher numbers = this and lower numbers = that... I have not been able to find that information out online

I appreciate the info back though!
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Postby theamazingnate » Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:42 pm

---CAMRAZY--- wrote:wtfuckk!!!! You sold your lexus that was clean as hell to get a camry?? you sir, with respect have failed... lol


Hey man - gotta do what I gotta do... going back to school here in the fall, and I was not going to be driving that car around campus and using it as a DD... at this point in my life, I just could not afford 2 cars - so I wanted to get something I could beat up and just romp around in... 98 camry it was - and I ended up banking away a good amount of money in the sale/purchase to keep for other things ;P

So yeah - I know the lexus got the respect, but this car is fun and cheap and can get beatup without me crying over the body and interior haha
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Postby Akfahad » Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:21 pm

You know...I'm not really sure what they mean either, but I know I ran 15/15. You could always call Apex tech guys and find out. They're actually pretty nice, well...last time I called them about a problem I was having with my safc 2 they were at least.
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Postby lilm » Fri Feb 13, 2009 12:28 am

What makes the most sense is that it takes a 12 volt signal in and puts out a 12 volt signal......and why 15 works because is that all those cars probably never put out more than 12 volts......
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Postby CamryOnBronze » Fri Feb 13, 2009 7:18 am

I dont have much other input really since I cant remember what I was running (I think it was 12/12), but congrats on the purchase nate :D
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Postby Midias » Fri Feb 13, 2009 7:34 am

lilm wrote:What makes the most sense is that it takes a 12 volt signal in and puts out a 12 volt signal......and why 15 works because is that all those cars probably never put out more than 12 volts......



Just hope it does not have a small charge pump inside to make 15V.
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Postby JamesT » Fri Feb 13, 2009 10:58 am

I think mine is 1in/1out...
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Postby lilm » Fri Feb 13, 2009 1:09 pm

Midias wrote:
lilm wrote:What makes the most sense is that it takes a 12 volt signal in and puts out a 12 volt signal......and why 15 works because is that all those cars probably never put out more than 12 volts......



Just hope it does not have a small charge pump inside to make 15V.
Charge pump?
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Postby Midias » Fri Feb 13, 2009 2:04 pm

^ Basically a small circuit consisting of an arrangement of caps and switches that operate in such a way as to precharge capacitors and then add the charge from various caps to create larger voltages. This practice is common in EEPROMs and RS232 drivers and receivers such as the MAX3232. If a company like apexi wanted to be able to take 12V in and put out 15V it would probably not be much of a problem.
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Postby lilm » Fri Feb 13, 2009 2:20 pm

but based on how the tuner works i dont think that is feasible. since its a straight shot from the maf to the ecu and there is nothing to bump up the voltage...does that make sense? the unit just changes the out put signal based onyour tune
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Postby Midias » Fri Feb 13, 2009 3:33 pm

lilm wrote:but based on how the tuner works i dont think that is feasible. since its a straight shot from the maf to the ecu and there is nothing to bump up the voltage...does that make sense? the unit just changes the out put signal based onyour tune


I am not sure if it is a straight shot I have never taken one apart but it is feasible that if they are changing the nature of the signal then they could easily change the gain via a cmos (digital) level shifter or a simple amplification circuit such as an opamp (analog). Then using a charge pump to give you a higher voltage rail. But if you have taken one apart and found it is just a straight shot (read single wire with no components) then no it would not change voltage. If you are just thinking about cap size many charge pumps use 0805 .1uf caps which are very small.

Or something completely different sense the battery is charging at about 14-14.5V it could be using that for higher voltage rails but then again I have never measured it or taken one apart.
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