Replacing Brakes pads/rotors @ 35k?

[nathos]

Hi everyone,

I just brought my '04 Solara SE in for my 35k oil change, and the dealer is telling me that I need to replace my front brakes AND rotors (for a cost of nearly $1000). The note said "less than 2mm left"; I'm assuming they're referring to the pads.

I expected to need new pads by now, but I'm very surprised they want me to replace the rotors too. There's been no squealing or screeching from my brakes yet. I haven't done any brake service on this car since I bought it new (still the original pads & rotors), though I do bring it in for regular service every 5k miles.

It's always been my experience in the past that pads wear faster than rotors. Other than anti-lock brakes, which get pretty regular use in the wintertime, is there any reason the rotors would need replacing at the same time as the pads?

Is the dealer just trying to juice some extra money out of me?

[Dawgz]

well for the year of ur car, id say the rotors would need to be replaced IF they are warped..if not then i dont think the rotor is much of a worry, just the pads...


Dont just take my advice though, wait for other responses on this matter and take them as a whole.

[akora12]

I agree, the rotors should be fine unless they're warped. Unless the warping is really minor, you'd know if they were warped.

I'm on the original rotors at 115K.

[cklinh]

Bring it to a local mechanic to get a second opinion.

If you have a WheelWorks nearby, I think they do a free braking system inspection.

[Down2TheC]

Sounds like a rape scene to me. Unless you brake really hard, I can't see going through pads that quick (you should eyeball them yourself) and if it's your OEM pads still, they didn't wear away enough rotor that they couldn't be turned. If they were warped you'd feel the pulsing when you brake. So it's probably that your dealer only replaces rotors and won't turn them for you.

That said, this is one of the easier jobs on the car and probably a good starter DITY that saves lots of money with very few tools needed. Try the fronts yourself and if you find it's too much for you, just take the parts to your local Midas or shop you know and they'll complete the job with the parts you purchased.

Rear brakes will have more life in them due to brake bias but check them out.

One more point... if you were going to replace pads and rotors, then what's your incentive to have the job done before you hear metal on metal contact? Blow off that dealer.

[Black Bob]

If you have stock pads and rotors you are correct to think that the pads normally go first. Also, the wear indicators would be letting you know the pads are worn (metal prong(s) attached to your pads that stick out towards the rotor thereby causing a scraping sound on your rotors which would indicate severe wear of the pads.) The best indicator is you actually feeling your car is not braking as well as it should. Rotors need to be measured and checked. But you should be able to find a place that would give you a free second opinion without dollar signs in their eyes....it's just a matter of finding an honest mechanic. I think the prevailing thought is that your garage may be soaking you. There are a ton of guys on this forum that already upgraded their stock brakes that can probably give you more insight, don't be afraid to PM them. By the way, I just found out my neighbors teenage daughter is a two-footed Camry driver and she's been driving with feet on both the brake and gas pedals at the same time for 3 years before she got caught. EVEN her brakes are still going strong after 50k miles.

[Midias]

Wow 1000 rape I replaced all 4 once with dealer parts and it was less than 400 so they want about 600 for labor.

[PXLpainter]

MAJOR ripoff!!!

Parts would be around $400 max and you're looking at about a 2 hr job for a skilled tech with lift and all the right tools.

Like others have said, unless the rotors are OBVIOUSLY warped, no need to replace them IMO.

[youngblood]

^^^^^^^^^^^+1

Get a second opinion!

[nathos]

Thanks everyone. I knew something didn't smell right I'll be taking it to a local shop for a second opinion.

It's strange, I never had a problem with the dealer while I was under warranty.

[kwyse]

$1000 is completely obnoxious.

I doubt your rotors need replacing...if they do you'd feel it when you braked.

And as far as your pads, the fronts may need replacing, but you can buy these for anywhere between $25 and $50 depending on which ones you buy. (Semi-metallic vs ceramic.) If you take off a wheel, there's a "window" on the caliper so you can see how much is worn.

Try the job yourself and you will save hundreds of dollars. Its really easy to do and there's write ups everywhere online on how to...or you could just buy a Hayne's manual for $20.

[crispone]

ABSOLUTELY NO FRICKIN' WAY!!!!


That's a BBB report, if you ask ME!

I have an '04 SE V6 and DRIVE THE HOLY HELL out of it... WITH CP-e on FULL TILT a LOT. I JUST replaced my pads, front were SHEET OF PAPER thin, (just squealing lightly), and the REAR were at about 20%, so I said DO IT!

...that's at EIGHTY THOUSAND MILES!!!!! (I DO drive a lot of highway... but I TELL YOU, I WORK the brakes a LOT!)

NO ROTOR replacement, but they lightly turned them for a fresh surface.

Brake job was UNDER $400, and my mechanic even removed, cleaned, and re-lubed the caliper pistons! (the guy is GOLD!)

You are being fed a line of bull-pucky, unless you REALLY abuse the livin' heck out of your brakes... or have a REALLY extreme case that is abnormal.


My 0.02


-crisp

[geminiz]

do we need any special tools to change the brakes ourselves? I'm not sure, but i thought i heard that the rear brakes needed a special tool?

can someone verify this asap, i would like to check out my brakes today soon. thanks.

[Midias]

I think just a big flathead screwdriver, 14mm socket, 17mm socket, socket wrench 3/8 or 1/2, extension for wrench and a 5 to 6 inch C clamp.

[geminiz]

Thanks Midias.

How about the specs for bolt torque needed on this brake job?