more boost *update

[SC V6]

runnin 7psi stongly for a while.. no problem

[Vampire]

Are you going with the aquamist system?

5psi works and 5.5 psi not?

Well, 7psi works for me and I'll be taking it higher this year or at least trying to. I just ordered an 8psi and a 9psi pulley. -JoeB

[Hsakuragi]

is it because of the sea level?

[all_red]

JoeB and ScottV6,
Are you not having problems because you have upgraded fuel system, headers, and tuned air/fuel management device? or maybe higher octane than CA guys?

[cdssolara]

Carlo, If you are getting knock from the front, I would worry. I can certainly understand if you are getting false readings from the supercharger on the rear bank but if you really do have knock, I wouldn't just supress the signal by changing to another type or reduce it by moving the sensors. Have you tested the fuel pressure at the rails? It sounds like your problem might be different. How does you WB-O2 meter read? Did you tune it at 11.5-1? I've heard a couple people now say that is where they got the best power and safe tune rather than the normal 12.5-1. -JoeB

Joe, I won't do any relocation until I'm sure that there's no knocking. At this point, I'm already pretty sure, for a number of reasons:

1. I'm aready using Jim@FA's heads to lower compression.
2. I'm getting the CEL with knock sensor codes even when I have mixed
in over 1/3 of a tank of 100 octane gas.
3. The CEL will come on even when I'm not boosting.
4. With the Walbro fuel pump, headers and 7 psi pulley, there's a lot of
extra noise in the engine.
5. My car was tuned at 11.5:1 A/F ratio.
6. When I go to WOT the A/F ratio stays steady with no lean spikes.

It seems to me that not all cars are created equal. My car, and maybe a few others (like Kondo) just seem more predisposed to setting off the knock sensors.

I've already replaced both knock sensors once. I guess I can do it again, but I don't want to just keep throwing money into this car unless I know that something else has changed. It seems that there must be some key to this, but I just haven't worked it out yet.

[JoeB]

Are you going with the aquamist system?

5psi works and 5.5 psi not?

Well, 7psi works for me and I'll be taking it higher this year or at least trying to. I just ordered an 8psi and a 9psi pulley. -JoeB

Yes, from URD! First one on the Solara. Again, I get the honor of being the tester. -JoeB

[JoeB]

JoeB and ScottV6,
Are you not having problems because you have upgraded fuel system, headers, and tuned air/fuel management device? or maybe higher octane than CA guys?

I'm not positive, I can only speculate that has something to do with it. I am running 7psi now with no problems what so ever. I know the fuel was a HUGE improvement! I'm not sure the rest of my system was ready for the JP Performance exhaust when I installed it. I lost a little on the bottom, gained a little on the top but the sound is very nice. I think it is continuing to give me more benefits as I do more upgrades. -JoeB

[Eric]

The detonation sensors are a piezo electric sensor that produce a voltage signal output when excited by sound or vibration, The resonant frequency of the piezo element is the frequency that the sensor will be the most sensitive too, and will produce the most voltage output with least amount sound or vibratory input at that frequency. These sensors do there job but are not a foolproof device and have manufacturing tolerances that will make them operate different from one sensor to the other.

I want to mention one more thing, my car before I did the ECU detonation sensor mod would drive like crap even without tripping the CEL because it thought it was detecting detonation, it would severely retard the ingition advance curve as preventative and protective measure is my estimation of what was happening. The car came alive after doing this mod and had better driveability even when not driving agressively.

When I did the mod at the ECU I did not know which connector was for which bank because I had lost that part of the wiring diagram. I only had the info for the ECU.

I disconnected both inputs to the ECU and then connected the two ECU inputs together in parallel. I did this by cutting and stripping back the wires.

Next I connect on of the inputs comming from the two sensors and test drove the car. My first guess was wrong and I got the symptoms that I was always experiencing. For testing purposes I tried leaving the sensors disconneted it almost immediatley tripped the CEL light. Then I connected the input from the other sensor and test drove the car and all was right for te first time.

I would take pictures and post them but I dont have the spare time, I suggest going to a local dealer and making friends with a mechanic and have him print you out the wiring connections to the ECU and do as I describe above.

[JoeB]

Eric, this is good info and I understand what you are saying. What we would be doing is cuting the wire from the rear bank so it goes nowhere. The wire from the front bank would then be connected in parallel to both knock sensor ECU inputs. Very straight forward and easy to follow. My problem is, I don't have a significant problem so I may not get very noticeable results by the trial and error method. Any way you can tell which wire is cut and which is going to both inputs? I have a diagram of the ECU. The problem is, it is labeled Bank-1 and Bank-2. I don't know which is front and which is rear. Any help? -JoeB

[808Camry]

I get a bank 2 error code so if your diagram tells you bank 1 and bank 2. Cut bank 2 and hook both to bank 1. Is this the diagram from the SAFC II or a toyota one? If its a toyota one can you email it to me? Thanks!

[JoeB]

Ron, unfortunately this is the one from the S-AFC-II wiring manual, application T10-f. Maybe one of our friends that work at Toyota could hook us up with a good wiring diagram for the ECU? Please? -JoeB

[Vampire]

Ron,

Bank 1 is the cylinder bank closest to the firewall. It contains the #1 cylinder in the firing order. Let me know if you guys need more info, I have the service manuals and a subscription to ALLDATA.

Paul

I get a bank 2 error code so if your diagram tells you bank 1 and bank 2. Cut bank 2 and hook both to bank 1. Is this the diagram from the SAFC II or a toyota one? If its a toyota one can you email it to me? Thanks!

[808Camry]

Hmm which one would be the bank 2 knock sensor wire? Thanks a million Paul! Next time I'm on the Big Island to do an audit I think I need to meet you up and xerox that book!

[Vampire]

Sorry guys, I now realize you wanted the ECU pin wire diagram. Right? Let me see if I can get that.

Hmm which one would be the bank 2 knock sensor wire? Thanks a million Paul! Next time I'm on the Big Island to do an audit I think I need to meet you up and xerox that book!

[Vampire]

Okay, according to the Toyota wiring diagram. On plug E11, which is the leftmost plug coming out of the ECU (and the biggest). Pin 27 is for knock sensor 1 and pin 28 for knock sensor 2. Don't know how to post pics here. Maybe Ron can host it.