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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Idling/Alternator Question!
Stock talk about the Generation 1 and 1.5 Toyota Solara which were produced from 1999 to 2003.

Idling/Alternator Question!

Idling/Alternator Question!

Postby Nemesis85 » Fri May 07, 2010 5:39 pm

Okay, so my lara Idles @ ~ 600/650 rpm. When at a stop, my lights dim and vents don't blow as hard (no pun intended lol). I'm a Gen1 V6 @ 119K miles w/ all original belts. I'm wondering if I replace the belts, if that will resolve the issue, as I believe a tight new belt would help, or if my car is not idling at an rpm that my alternator requires? Or if there is a way to throttle up my idle to 800-1000 rpm cuz if I put my foot on the gas while @ a stop in nuetral just enough to get rpm to around that mark, there is no dimming.
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Postby TheBossMan » Fri May 07, 2010 6:39 pm

give it some time to go away on its own. i had the same problem but didn't worry about it that much. I hadn't noticed it for a while but when i sea foamed i no longer had the problem.

I also noticed that my car likes mid-grade fuel octane and seems to run better on it. Give this a try because it worked for me
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Postby Nemesis85 » Fri May 07, 2010 7:21 pm

only problem to that theory is, I've already ran sea foam through the oil, through the fuel, and through the vacuum/exhaust. Plus, it's been doing this since I purchased the car. I've read that this is common w/ gen1, but based on what I previously stated, I'm sure one if not al of those actions, would drastically help. Just looking to see if others have had this issue and were able to resolve it
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Postby TheBossMan » Fri May 07, 2010 8:30 pm

i had the same issue and did resolve it with the above steps ^^
Just trying to help

I also had the cables connecting to the battery replaced because they were making poor connection according to my mechanic
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Postby 1gSE » Fri May 07, 2010 9:04 pm

TheBossMan wrote:i had the same issue and did resolve it with the above steps ^^
Just trying to help

I also had the cables connecting to the battery replaced because they were making poor connection according to my mechanic


My car does the same....

I'd try the Big 3 upgrade before replacing the alternator. Cheaper and easier. Afterwards, Id go for the highlander alternator. I can't remember the exact year, but 1MZ highlander alternators are a direct swap
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Postby MisterTedster » Fri May 07, 2010 9:18 pm

I got my highlander alternator for $60. That's practically the cost of the 1/0 gauge wire one would use for a big 3 anyway. But in all honesty, I did a big 3 AND changed out the alternator. My audio system is thanking me for it.
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Postby Nemesis85 » Fri May 07, 2010 11:54 pm

Wait, what is the "big 3" upgrade? sorry i don't know that term lol
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Postby 1gSE » Sat May 08, 2010 1:40 am

big 3 upgrade + plus google = answers

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads ... 025/page/1
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Postby toytim » Sat May 08, 2010 3:37 am

We had a low idle problem with our 4 cyl convertible.

I cleaned the intake, EGR, checked the air filter, replaced the plugs, wires and looked at all the vacuum hoses and it still did the same so I adjusted the idle screw a bit and it seems to idle better now. The only thing is it revved higher when cold but the computer adjusted that within a day or so.

If you try this just keep note of how many turns you make on the idle screw so you can put it back where it was if needed.

Good luck, Tim
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Postby Nemesis85 » Sat May 08, 2010 6:43 pm

Sweet, that is the answer i was looking for, only because i've done pretty much everything you just listed, a tranny flush, synth oil in the tranny and engine, and still getting the same low idle. Can you show me a pic of where the idle screw may be?
Thanks again!
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