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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Timing Belt
Stock talk about the Generation 1 and 1.5 Toyota Solara which were produced from 1999 to 2003.

Timing Belt

Timing Belt

Postby drewcrane » Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:25 am

i am considering changing my timing belt on my 6 cyl 2000 solara, i have worked on several v8,s so i am capable of doing this,

my question is are there things i should look for?

also since i am in there i want to change the water pump,sparkplugs, wires,is there a cap and rotor? and is there anything else i should do while i am in there?

any suggestions,speed parts etc,are all needed /wanted so dont be shy and tell me if there any stumbling blocks i might encounter :D

thanks Drew
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Postby ASG14 » Thu Apr 22, 2010 6:36 pm

TBelt
Water Pump
Tensioner
Cam/Crank seals
Thermostate/Gasket
Rad Hoses

Drain the coolant BEFORE you take the water pump off.
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Postby akora12 » Thu Apr 22, 2010 6:54 pm

The p/s pump pivot bolt can be tricky to find if you've never done the swap. Feel for the 14mm bolt just above the pulley.

Check the oil pump seal once the crank pulley is off as well.
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Postby drewcrane » Fri Apr 23, 2010 4:30 am

excellant now i have a better list,

i am thinking about doing the valve cover gaskets also,thanks for the advice on the ps pump
, stuff like that can be a pain but now i know what to look for thanks a bunch guys :wink:
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Postby ASG14 » Fri Apr 23, 2010 8:20 am

I should also mention a few other things after thinking about the PS bolts that Akora mentioned.

1: Pulley puller for the crank pulley. It;s almost a given you'll need one. The puller is cheap.

2: Cam Gear holder to remove the cam gears (to replace the cam seals). Try to avoid using an impact or air gun to remove the center bolt. The gaskets are a pain to replace, trust me. I hate it with a passion.
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Postby drewcrane » Fri Apr 23, 2010 2:31 pm

ASG14 wrote:I should also mention a few other things after thinking about the PS bolts that Akora mentioned.

1: Pulley puller for the crank pulley. It;s almost a given you'll need one. The puller is cheap.

2: Cam Gear holder to remove the cam gears (to replace the cam seals). Try to avoid using an impact or air gun to remove the center bolt. The gaskets are a pain to replace, trust me. I hate it with a passion.


those gasket do have to be replaced dont they?

i really appreciate your help
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Postby ASG14 » Fri Apr 23, 2010 3:10 pm

They do not "have" to, but it is HIGHLY recommended to do so.

If you have never done a 1MZ t-belt job before, give yourself an entire day to be safe. :)
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Postby drewcrane » Fri Apr 23, 2010 6:35 pm

ASG14 wrote:They do not "have" to, but it is HIGHLY recommended to do so.

If you have never done a 1MZ t-belt job before, give yourself an entire day to be safe. :)


yea i figured i am one of those guys that says "if your in that far you might as well replace what you can so you dont have to go back again ",and yes i plan on 2 days just in case,again good advice :sweet:
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Postby akora12 » Fri Apr 23, 2010 7:03 pm

IMO, the biggest pain of the swap is removing the crank bolt. I had to fabricate a steel y bar that screwed into the harmonic balancer to keep the crank from turning while torquing on the bolt.
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Postby ASG14 » Fri Apr 23, 2010 7:05 pm

^ Really? I've removed 3 bolts without any issue. I just tied a breaker bar to the control arm with the socket on the breaker bar/bolt, and did a bump start of the engine, and loosened it right up.
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Postby akora12 » Fri Apr 23, 2010 7:45 pm

Yeah, I didn't want to stress the starter or crank. Once the y bar was made, it was fairly easy to remove. Plus, I couldn't do the starter bump since the engine was out of the car.
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Postby ASG14 » Fri Apr 23, 2010 7:53 pm

^ LOL! Yeah, being out of the car makes it a bit worse. :-P
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Postby drewcrane » Mon Apr 26, 2010 8:16 am

ngk,s good plug? (i use them on my 440) and wires also?
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Postby ASG14 » Mon Apr 26, 2010 8:23 am

NGK and Denso are both good. :)

Rock Auto has the wires pretty cheap.
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Postby ozone » Mon Apr 26, 2010 8:31 am

There's a lot to do in the timing belt replacement. The transverse mounting of the engine makes it a pain. I didn't use the bump start method and found the crank bolt difficult to remove too. Check out my website for a partial procedure and some of the things you might encounter:

www.ozone1000.com

Good luck.
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