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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Scooter's aftermarket thoughts
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

Scooter's aftermarket thoughts

Scooter's aftermarket thoughts

Postby scooter » Thu Mar 25, 2010 12:22 pm

Ok, I basically have a stock 2002 Solara SE. I want to mod it.

Here's what I have:

Stock Headunit (I don't like it. D: )with the JBL audio system - Upgrade headunit to something better...thoughts?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020NX409/C ... l?tp=20212

Stock rims - Want to upgrade to Motegi R56s (18x8 ) with Falken 912s (225/45/18 )

Headlights - Upgraded to HIDs 6k (aka already installed)

Stock body kit - Want to up it to a lip kit (I can not find one, I keep finding obnoxious body kits).

Stock suspension - Want to lower it about 1.25" or 1.5". Maybe tein or eibach lowering springs with stock struts?
Last edited by scooter on Thu Mar 25, 2010 12:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Toy1mzfe » Thu Mar 25, 2010 12:41 pm

i got lips for sale if you interested. just fronts and backs.

hids- 39 bucks shipped from kickxtc on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/hid-kit-xenon-conve ... 255861303c

You should think about getting some springs and lower your car. Some teins or eibachs.
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Postby scooter » Thu Mar 25, 2010 12:48 pm

I'm thinking of springs. I can get Teins for about $240+labor? But since I have an I4...will it look like it was lowered much?

Also, the lips I would but I need to paint them along with my front bumper to DWP. I already have HIDs installed.
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Postby jetbtkng » Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:07 pm

kamanari KA60801U - 1999-2003 Toyota Solara Lip Kit - PUR $495.00.............. :drinking:
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Postby SdeA » Thu Mar 25, 2010 2:57 pm

jetbtkng wrote:kamanari KA60801U - 1999-2003 Toyota Solara Lip Kit - PUR $495.00.............. :drinking:

x2
Just buy the 7 pcs lip kit from kamanari its $495
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Postby scooter » Thu Mar 25, 2010 5:03 pm

:O

That's a hot lip kit.

This project will run about 5k cause I need to repair the body damage on my car (rear right quarter panel is dented, rear bumper needs to be repainted (eff replacing it), and front bumper needs to be repainted (body shop didn't prep it right and painted it white and not dwp :< ).

Price sheet so far:

Body damage to be repaired: ~$1500 (parts, labor, and everything)
Springs: ~$300 (labor and parts)
Tint: ~$140 (labor and parts)
Lip kit: ~$550 (parts only)
Paint for lipkit: ~$???
Rims and Wheels: ~$1,450 (parts, shipping, mounting, balancing, road hazard protection, etc.)
Headunit: ~$500

Total: ~$4590

I am praying for a better paying job at the moment.
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Postby scooter » Thu Mar 25, 2010 6:12 pm

(sorry for double post)

How easy is it to put on lip kits? This is cause I'm looking to save as much money possible.
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Postby TLMNICK » Thu Mar 25, 2010 7:02 pm

It is EXTREMELY easy to do. My suggestion would be to put it on before you paint it...just so you can adjust small things where need be. I had to take a heat gun to my two front pieces to conform them properly.
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Postby scooter » Fri Mar 26, 2010 1:43 pm

Since I have a texas plated car that is in AZ at the moment and I want to put tint on the car, should I follow AZ tint laws or TX tint laws...or combo of both?
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Postby MisterTedster » Fri Mar 26, 2010 5:33 pm

Here's the thing about head units that I learned the hard way. Know what you want first, and I'm not talking about just the basics like whether or not you want iPod capability, HD radio capability, etc. I mean if you want to go active, be able to do time alignment, etc. I mean if you figure out what you want exactly, I can help put you in the right direction.
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Postby SirThomas8 » Fri Mar 26, 2010 7:26 pm

scooter wrote:Since I have a texas plated car that is in AZ at the moment and I want to put tint on the car, should I follow AZ tint laws or TX tint laws...or combo of both?


Good question. I would say the answer depends on what you're looking for. Are you looking for the darkest tint you can get away with? In that case I'd say go with whichever state allows the darkest tint.

In Maryland the legal limit is 35%. I got 20% in hopes that it's close enough to get confused with 35%. But I have 35% in the back windshield so any cops behind me would see that instead. When I get pulled over I roll down all my windows as far I can so they can't see em. I haven't had any problems with my tints and cops.
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Postby scooter » Fri Mar 26, 2010 7:30 pm

I want something that sounds better than a stock headunit. I really don't know what 'go active' or 'time alightment' means...so, can you (MisterTedster) please explain? :)
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Postby scooter » Fri Mar 26, 2010 7:33 pm

SirThomas8 wrote:Good question. I would say the answer depends on what you're looking for. Are you looking for the darkest tint you can get away with? In that case I'd say go with whichever state allows the darkest tint.

In Maryland the legal limit is 35%. I got 20% in hopes that it's close enough to get confused with 35%. But I have 35% in the back windshield so any cops behind me would see that instead. When I get pulled over I roll down all my windows as far I can so they can't see em. I haven't had any problems with my tints and cops.


Well, I think I'm gonna go with AZ's tint law (35% front 2 windows and any% the rest of the windows.)
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Postby MisterTedster » Fri Mar 26, 2010 8:56 pm

Going active means that you're separating the range of frequencies that reach each speaker, so that each speaker can work within its ideal frequency range. This is done using a crossover, either external or built-in to the head unit. By using an active crossover, you are separating the frequency ranges before it hits the amplifier. In contrast, a passive crossover separates the frequency after the amplifier. Passive has the disadvantage that it operates using a series of resistors that react differently to different frequencies. Hence the frequencies that are separated can 'wander' which makes for a sound stage that is not ideal. An example would be separating your frequencies so that only frequencies from 20Hz to 80Hz would reach your subwoofers. Then 80Hz to 2.5kHz would reach your 6.5" mids, and 2.5kHz and above would reach your tweeters.

Time alignment takes into account the difference in the distance you are from each of your speakers due to your seating position. It will basically delay the signal to each speaker as necessary so the exact same sound reaches your ears from all directions, making for a much 'fuller' sound stage.

These two may not seem like much, but they do WORLDS for your sound quality. Unfortunately, most DVD double DIN head units do not offer these capabilities, in which case you would need external devices to achieve optimal sound quality. However, with an increasing number of devices, you increase the complication of your install, as well as introduce new potential sources of noise.

Hence, the best option, if you're looking for the best sound quality is to get a head unit with these features built-in. Some headunits to note, that are reasonably priced, are the Alpine 9887 and the Pioneer deh-880prs.

There are a few other features that also help to improve sound quality also. High-voltage pre-outs are absolutely essential. I stay away from any head unit that has less than 4V for the preouts. Why? By using a higher voltage pre-out, the signal reaching the amplifier is cleaner since you will not have to turn it up as high. Many people do not realize that turning the volume up to high will result in distortion due to the head unit, not the amplifier. Also, it allows you to lower the gains on the amplifier, hence lowering the noise floor.

If you are planning to run a full set of speakers and subs, get a headunit that has 5 or 6 preouts, if you want to avoid having to use an external crossover. There are a couple units that have 8 preouts, but they can be VERY pricey.

There is also the issue of equalization. Generally you will get 7 points of equalization from a head unit. Even higher-end head units do not offer many more points of equalization. I personally use an external unit that has 30 points of equalization.

With all these devices, you definitely have to be willing to experiment with different frequencies and different crossover points. It can be a long process as each adjustment you make will take you about a week or so to assess whether or not you like it. But once you do achieve the sound you like, you will be overwhelmingly satisfied.

Again, it's all about how good you want your sound to be, and how much time and money you're willing to invest.

Installation is 90% of the equation. The other 10% is the quality of all your audio components.

Good luck! I know you're probably going to ignore most of this, but you might be inspired one day to read it over. :up:
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Postby scooter » Sat Mar 27, 2010 9:09 am

I'm probably going to get a new headunit seeing that my speakers are not that bad (JBL). I was considering this: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020NX409/C ... ailed_info
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