EGR Removal?

Website · by **99BlackSandv6** » Tue Dec 29, 2009 10:38 pm

Ok guys,

I did a search and came up with nothing. I would like to know what you guys did when you removed the EGR junk from your cars. I know there are a few of you that did it and I am very interested in doing the same. So, other than unbolting the stuff I don't want and bolting on blocking plates, what do I need to do? That is, what will the car do if I remove that stuff? I am assuming it will freak out and run like crap when it detects the EGR valve not functioning. Can any of you help me out? Any input is appreciated.

Thanks,

Ben, 99BlackSandv6

by **JvR** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 12:37 am

i installed a thin plate between the mainfold and the egr pipe with out any problem.

by **SleeperSolara** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 1:09 am

It's not hard.
You just have to remove the 10mm nuts that secure the EGR.

by **akora12** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 6:21 am

The car runs fine w/o the EGR system...aside from having a CEL.

by **JvR** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 7:56 am

strange, never had a CEL error. (I drive for 5 years with a blocked EGR)

by **akora12** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 8:13 am

^It's the epic problem with removing EGR here in the States...at least with the solara.

Website · by **99BlackSandv6** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 10:41 am

So does anyone know what needs to be done to prevent the CEL coming on? That's the only part I'm worried about, the mechanical stiff is a synch. I'm worried about the CEL.

Thanks for the replies. :up:

by **akora12** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 10:47 am

You're SOL with the CEL. I've posted several threads about eradicating this problem, and the best we can come up with is having someone create a blackbox that interacts with the ecu. A simple resistor won't work for our application. I've tread about every resistance to make sure.

Read here:
http://www.solaraguy.com/viewtopic.php? ... hlight=egr

Website · by **99BlackSandv6** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 10:51 am

Oh yeah, I remember that thread. So we have no way to get rid of the CEL then. That sucks, it would be very nice to run EGR-free.

What about you JvR? You haven't had the light come on? Could it be a USDM only issue? Maybe I need a European ECM. :lol:

by **JamesT** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 10:17 pm

I'm still playing with this idea when I have the free time.

As I have no electric knowledge, it's been an uphill battle but I think I'm getting closer.

Website · by **99BlackSandv6** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 10:22 pm

I have some electronic knowledge, I would call it 'adequate' in most situations. If you want to share some of the info, maybe we can combine our knowledge and come up with something. We could potentially change....tens of lives. :lol:

Seriously though if you want to share any info PM me, if not, that's cool too.

by **MisterTedster** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 2:15 am

What, exactly, would removing the EGR do? More power?

I'm not sure how clean the 1mz engine burns, but wouldn't we have smog issues if we did remove the EGR?

by **JvR** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 9:45 am

99BlackSandv6 wrote:Oh yeah, I remember that thread. So we have no way to get rid of the CEL then. That sucks, it would be very nice to run EGR-free.

What about you JvR? You haven't had the light come on? Could it be a USDM only issue? Maybe I need a European ECM.

No, the only time the CEL came on, was the time i broke the Knock sensor.

I think the ECM is no that different, but we have a different vacuum line route and the EGR control system looks a bit different. (i think it is like the California model)

I put the blocking plate direct between the end of the EGR pipe and the S/C. So the whole piping is still installed.

Website · by **99BlackSandv6** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:01 pm

Oh OK, maybe because you left everything plugged in there is no CEL. Still I think it would show an error code of insufficient EGR flow. As for being like the CA model, mine has CA emissions equipment also.

Thanks guys!

by **Gibson99** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 9:56 am

my EGR position sensor and temp sensor are still plugged in but i got the egr insufficient code since the lower pipes burned through and then blockoff plates were installed.

i am trying to get new pipes made (or patched) so that i can have a functional EGR system again. high EGTs are the reason. at 75 mph with cruise control on, i am seeing about 680-700 degrees C (not F!!) at the front manifold. to me that says LEAN. which explains why my old plugs were so white when i changed them. knowing that, i try to keep it at 65 or lower, since that seems to keep temps around 600. since it richens it up so much at WOT, i NEVER see temps over 650C no matter what i top out at. it's just cruise temps that bother me since the ECU is trying to lean it out to the bleeding edge to get max MPG. it's also expecting there to be EGR providing a bit of cooling and a slight bit of additional fuel.

EGR isn't solely about increasing emissions. it really does help with economy and efficiency, and functional (ie not broken) modern EGR systems don't take away any power at all. the computer closes the EGR at idle and at WOT so you still get power and driveability. it also snaps the egr back open when you lift after a hard WOT run to cool things off (this one here DOES help with emissions).

the only reason i left the EGR off of my 95 was because i was too cheap to get proper pipes made to hook it back up.

EGR Removal?

EGR Removal?

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