WTB Genuine Toyota Part...

[99BlackSandv6]

Rear Sway Bar link.

I need a rsb link for the Gen1 Solara. I mangled one of mine so I need a replacement.
If you have one that is in decent condition and is a GENUINE TOYOTA part,
I would like to buy it.

I don't want to pay $90 at the dealer for a part...again.

I might post up pics of the mangled link if I get a chance.
The top nut fell off and...well, it's no longer straight.

NEW oR USED!!! Does anyone have one?

Thanks

[MisterTedster]

Sorry I don't have one to offer you, but I've read on the forums that Moog sway bar end links are quite good as they are thicker and appear to be stronger than the oem links, just in case if you cannot find one. Of course there's always the salvage yard.

[99BlackSandv6]

Thanks for the reply Tedster, I would still prefer the OEM link though. I also asked at my local yard, and had no luck.
Anybody else?

[jetbtkng]

did you ask gabe, trd4life..................

[99BlackSandv6]

Haha, I pm'd Gabe, no response though. I'm sure he has a couple layin' around

[SleeperSolara]

Did you check for 1998 Camry's??
They have the same suspension as the Gen 1 Solara's.
If you need one i know of a Camry or 2 at a salvage yard i can pull of the end link for you.
Let me know.

[Ruski]

the aftermarket links are just as strong if not stronger and thicker then the OEM ones. Why are you specifically looking for OEM?

[trd4life]

i may have one let me check

[akora12]

I'm an OEM whore myself, but the stock links SUCK. I replaced my rears with brand new OEM links and a year later they were frozen again. After cutting apart 1-year old links that cost well over $100, I switched to moog and will never go back.

[99BlackSandv6]

Thanks everybody!

I refuse to put Chinese components on my car, which most aftermarket stuff is. I have had the factory pieces on the rsb for over 117000 miles with no problem, other than the one being bent...which was totally my fault.

Cool Gabe, if you have one or two let me know. Thanks.

Akora12, by "froze up" do you mean the nut wouldn't come loose, or that the ball joints seized up?

[akora12]

^The nuts froze onto the bolt, which made the allen socket easily strip. The links aren't bad quality, just a terrible design. The moogs use a normal wrench on the outside of the bolt to keep the joint from moving while removing the nut, which absolves the problem with stripping out the allen socket.

The moogs are much stronger as well, and the joints are serviceable with grease.

[99BlackSandv6]

Ok, that's the original problem I had. I stripped the allen socket on the link. I got that old link on now, I had to cut notches in the nut and use a screwdriver and hammer to get the nut to free up so I could take it off. So now I have the original link on with a slot cut in it so I can use a flat blade screwdriver to hold the joint in place to tighten the nut. I'm not sure how long it will last that way, but I'm hopeful. I bet it's gonna be impossible to remove if I need to though.

Oh, just for clarification, I bent my brand new replacement, not the original. Wasted $90.

[SleeperSolara]

I've had 2 stripped on me already.
But i went to the salvage yard and picked of some Gen 4 and ES300 endlinks for my car.
The real only problem i have is the front passenger endlink that bolts to the front sway bar, i lost 1 nut on there after i torque it down, a replaced it, and then lost it again, so i bought another one and thread locked it on there.
Will have to check it sometime to see if it's still on there.

[99BlackSandv6]

Haha, well when the nut came off of mine, I sure as heck knew something was wrong.
Every bump and every turn I heard a bug clunk, the sound of
the link bouncing off of the control arm. It was bad.
And of course the handling went soft. No rear sway bar= EPIC body roll.