Boost Bypass adjustment

by **CASTRO** » Wed Nov 04, 2009 1:54 pm

808Camry wrote:I've been running the bypass hose switch for a few years now and love it. Glad to hear it's been serving you well. I need to swap out all my hoses since I'm using the rubber ones and I'm sure I've got cracks and leaks everywhere now.

Where did you get your hoses from?

Hey Ron, long time no hear. How's the headers treating you? I just used some really thick hoses a friend had extra from his projects. It's silicone hoses and the hose walls are clearly 2-3x thicker than the normal hoses use with the s/c. I just upgraded them all. So you are running with the actuator not moving at all? Just want to clarify as mine doesnt move one bit vs the original hose-to-vacuum port people do. Basically boost @ idle and boost all the time! lol

gnegroni-thanks, it brings the car a whole new feeling. Best mod for those with stock pully chargers
:up:

by **RON** » Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:56 pm

"Just want to clarify as mine doesnt move one bit vs the original hose-to-vacuum port people do. Basically boost @ idle and boost all the time! lol

Wow...wouldn't that put a strain on the SC (bearings etc)? Also HEAT would be excessive. The whole purpose of the Bypass is to *leave the SC alone* when boost isn't required. I come up on boost very quickly when throttle is over 20% open..it's instantaneous. I have a boost gauge to verify.

by **jetbtkng** » Wed Nov 04, 2009 4:02 pm

the sc is always turning, in turn creates heat, just because its not open its still pumping air, both of mine are bypassed, and works fine................... :drinking:

by **CASTRO** » Wed Nov 04, 2009 4:03 pm

its not as bad as people think. It acts almost the same as the original actuator to port config but seems more linear to me. Next week im actually going to be pulling off the s/c for oil change and change of plugs but so far it's been great. Still vacuums the same so i believe that the motor suck as much if not more than what the s/c pushes in most of the time.

Heat on the s/c doesnt seem any different either but then again i pulled off the rubber weather stripping from the rear of the hood and raised it via washers to give it a venting effect. 4psi pully shouldnt strain it too much but can't say the same for more boost.

confirmed upped response and better bottom end tq when i raced my bro's 08 civic Si haha.

*IMO smaller pullies put more strain on the s/c than this mod. If you've got the older original pully that doesnt exactly boost @ 4psi, this is ideal for you!

by **CASTRO** » Wed Nov 04, 2009 4:06 pm

jetbtkng wrote:the sc is always turning, in turn creates heat, just because its not open its still pumping air, both of mine are bypassed, and works fine...................

yeah buddy! bypass ftw! lol

just want to let people know that this isnt my only car and i just chose to do this cause ive been getting bored and honestly think both motor and s/c are robust enough to handle it. I keep great maint. and dont abuse the car so better to have fun while you can is what i say

woot!

by **chaneytsai** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:13 pm

Thank you for sharing your experience. I'm going to try this too.
Heat from supercharger is mostly from compressing air, not rotating it. But since it still keep vacuum at idle, and low boost at low rpm, I think that's not a big issue. Our supercharger is between throttle and engine, so it should be safe without bypass valve. I'm going to keep EBC to cut boost when it wants to.

by **RON** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:32 pm

chaneytsai wrote:Thank you for sharing your experience. I'm going to try this too.
Heat from supercharger is mostly from compressing air, not rotating it. But since it still keep vacuum at idle, and low boost at low rpm, I think that's not a big issue. Our supercharger is between throttle and engine, so it should be safe without bypass valve. I'm going to keep EBC to cut boost when it wants to.

When the bypass is shut, you are compressing air...it's also called *BOOST* . Those who think it helps performance to *BYPASS the BYPASS* are creating unwanted heat and stress when boost is NOT REQUIRED.

by **chaneytsai** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 2:41 pm

^ Totally agree. Keep charger boosting all the time increases intake air temperature and parasitic power loss. No doubt about that.
The question is how much boost when at idle and highway cruising. If manifold pressure is in vacuum under these situation, , then ... no problem at all! Castro said it's in good vacuum at idle and very light foot driving, so I guess S/C is not pushing air that hard in these situations. I need to do it by myself and see how manifold pressure changes.

by **CASTRO** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 4:14 pm

yeah, it often stays out of boost levels and acts just the way it would if you had the actuator working. only real difference is that the slightest touch to the accelerator or light load ex: freeway driving lets my boost gauge float between full -20 and a hair close to neutral 0 pressure. boost levels come in earlier when you are at half or more throttle.

again not really for the performance increase but it helps tons for an auto for engine response.

by **chaneytsai** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 5:07 pm

Great! That's exactly that I'm looking for. Better Low RPM response for auto.
If it stays in vacuum when not accelerating, heat is not an issue. I think it can't be boosting all the time since engine RPM will keep going up if it receives more air then it needs.

Boost Bypass adjustment

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