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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Castellated nut ?
Stock talk about the Generation 1 and 1.5 Toyota Solara which were produced from 1999 to 2003.

Castellated nut ?

Castellated nut ?

Postby GreenSolara01 » Sat Oct 31, 2009 6:06 pm

The castellated nut on the ball joint, right bellow the CV boots is hard to get to. I replaced the ball joint. I was trying to see if you guys might have any ideas on how to get it tight without damaging the boot. I think one is lose and might be causing the clunk noise I've been getting from time to time.

I kind of messed up the other one trying to tighten it down. I couldn't get it tight enough to get the cotter pin back through it so I cut off two of the slotted parts to make it work. Does anyone know what the size and thread of those things are so I can buy some replacements?
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Postby trentmeyer23 » Sun Nov 01, 2009 2:18 am

isnt that the whole point of a castellated nut, to secure the nut yet allow slight free-play, u may have the other one on WAY too tight
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Postby LEE337 » Sun Nov 01, 2009 7:11 am

Before you even try to screw on the nut. You need to get a small puller to pop it in. How did you get the ball joint off in the first place???
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Postby GreenSolara01 » Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:59 pm

Image

Yes. I have since replaced both. One is lose I think because I never torque it down to specification. The other one started to round off so its messed up.

What do you mean by
You need to get a small puller to pop it in


I used this

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and this

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Postby GreenSolara01 » Sun Nov 01, 2009 9:12 pm

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Postby LEE337 » Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:43 pm

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Use one of these to press the ball joint back into the knuckle.
You will also need it to press the tie rod into the knuckle as well.
They have different sizes for different applications.
Go to your local Advanced Auto Parts or AutoZone they should carry some.
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Postby Gibson99 » Mon Nov 02, 2009 11:06 am

LEE337 wrote:Image

Use one of these to press the ball joint back into the knuckle.
You will also need it to press the tie rod into the knuckle as well.
They have different sizes for different applications.
Go to your local Advanced Auto Parts or AutoZone they should carry some.


thats to remove, not install. sounds like he's putting it back together.

the puller you showed is the best way, but the "pickle fork" tool he showed is also an acceptable method for removing ball joints that you dont intend to reuse.
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Postby LEE337 » Mon Nov 02, 2009 1:45 pm

^I had to use it for both.
To pop it out, and then flipped it upsidedown and used it to press it back in. The area after the thread is a slight funnel shape. Once I tightened the puller up, I cranked on it a few more time and it clicked in the knuckle. I borrowed the tool from Advanced and I had to rent to whole set.
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Postby GreenSolara01 » Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:20 pm

So I might not have mine down all the way? Hmm, I’ll have to check it out again. I thought if I could get the correct amount of toque on it, then it would seat itself.
Any thoughts on how to tighten it down under that very annoying CV boot?
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Postby LEE337 » Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:50 pm

Im fairly sure you dont have it on all the way.

Jack up the car and remove wheel.
Remove castellated nut.
Use small puller upsidedown as to press the ball joint in.
You should hear slight click when ya get it in.

IMO why risk it not having the ball joint in all the way.
By torquing the castellated nut to pop it in you could damage the threads

Good Luck
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Postby Gibson99 » Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:39 pm

the problem with this lee, is that it could damage the ball joint. the brass cap in the center isn't intended to have force applied to it. in fact there's often a grease fitting there on many aftermarket ball joints.

i never torqued mine down... i just used an impact. :)
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Postby GreenSolara01 » Tue Nov 03, 2009 7:24 pm

I’ve been more concerned with the clicking I’m getting now, that castellated nut is the only part I didn’t torque down. Gibson you said impact gun? You do that w/out the cv attached?
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