What is this? UPDATE, car seems to shutter and shake...

by **michaels artic frost** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 12:22 am

Not sure if this will help much since something like this happened on my wife's bmw 3 series, but for what for it's worth. Tranny was replaced 2 years ago, my wife recently noticed a very rough idle when the car first starts, but somehow, I noticed a rough shift as well that same day. Make a long story short, I told the bmw dealership to check it out and they check the tranny and claimed it was fine. But the issue was still there. I had them check the car out again, but only look for the bad idle when the car first started and they found that the intake boot was busted and after the replacement, the car started great with no bad/rough idling and it drives fine now.

I'm sure the rough shift was just paranoia because the warranty was only for two years and I was afraid that I'd have to pay for another tranny.

Have you taken your car to the dealership or a shop? Anyhow, good luck.

by **Jakecallun20** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 1:02 am

I've gone by my mechanics place a few times, unfortunatley he's on his vacation right now. The dealer? Will they even bother to look at my car for free? I really don't want to pay to get the damn thing looked at when it probably needs an extensive expensive repair. :-?

by **michaels artic frost** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 9:54 am

Jakecallun20 wrote:I've gone by my mechanics place a few times, unfortunatley he's on his vacation right now. The dealer? Will they even bother to look at my car for free? I really don't want to pay to get the damn thing looked at when it probably needs an extensive expensive repair.

Unless you know the service writers, I'm sure they'll charge you a diagnostic fee, but it would go towards fixing the car once they find the problem. I would have replaced the intake boot on the bmw myself, but the diag fee was already $100 to begin with and they warranty all their work with 2 years unlimited miles, so it ended up costing $250 total.

5sfe wrote:transmission has nothing to do that your car idles bad and when you accel it shutters, its engine always have been, here's what it can be: bad gas, spark, fuel dilvery, map sensor would also cause this, does it happen when you are low in gas?, the hard shifts are the following: transmission seloinds, oil would mybe cause only if the transmission is shifting slow example; you driving and you accel, it would shift at 5700-6000 rpms then you will see the rpms drop slowy because the next gear is coming, this happens when you are low in oil or worn out clutch discs' in the transmission, your best bet would be you doing a transmission oil change with a new filter from toyota, i say toyota because the filters last 30,000 miles, the auto parts will sell you one that will last 5,000 miles it has happen to me.

I know you've got some miles on your car and like 5sfe said, there could be number of things.

Since the bmw was my wife's car, I generally try to have it fixed asap because I don't want her stranded on the side of the road for any maintenance reasons that I can control.

If you feel confident in the situation about your car and decide to wait for your 'go-to mechanic' I'd just wait til he gets back and have him look it over thoroughly, I generally like to show them on a test drive and explain to them what concerns I have with the car.

Keep us posted.

by **Jakecallun20** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 12:03 am

I am still waiting on my mechanic, soon I'm hoping. I have more bad news to bring to the table....turns out the leaking sunroof/driver door gasket that I thought was no biggie, has turned into a huge ordeal recently with our week straight rain here....turns out that there is nothing but mildew between my headliner and roof, there are water stains everywhere and the entire car wreeks of wet dog/gym socks. Great. Oh and when I left work tonight, I shifted from reverse to drive and heard this horrible creaking sound and the car lurched rather hard while I had my foot on the brake. Joy. I'm debating on weather or not to even bother with changing the EGR valve and POS sensor since more than likely I'll wind up trading this in.

by **DriDed** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 3:35 am

Jakecallun20 wrote:I am still waiting on my mechanic, soon I'm hoping. I have more bad news to bring to the table....turns out the leaking sunroof/driver door gasket that I thought was no biggie, has turned into a huge ordeal recently with our week straight rain here....turns out that there is nothing but mildew between my headliner and roof, there are water stains everywhere and the entire car wreeks of wet dog/gym socks. Great. Oh and when I left work tonight, I shifted from reverse to drive and heard this horrible creaking sound and the car lurched rather hard while I had my foot on the brake. Joy. I'm debating on weather or not to even bother with changing the EGR valve and POS sensor since more than likely I'll wind up trading this in.

It may be time to get rid of the Solara, how much of a trade value do you think you will get with the car with all of its problems though?

by **LEE337** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 5:26 am

Jakecallun20 wrote:I am still waiting on my mechanic, soon I'm hoping. I have more bad news to bring to the table....turns out the leaking sunroof/driver door gasket that I thought was no biggie, has turned into a huge ordeal recently with our week straight rain here....turns out that there is nothing but mildew between my headliner and roof, there are water stains everywhere and the entire car wreeks of wet dog/gym socks. Great. Oh and when I left work tonight, I shifted from reverse to drive and heard this horrible creaking sound and the car lurched rather hard while I had my foot on the brake. Joy. I'm debating on weather or not to even bother with changing the EGR valve and POS sensor since more than likely I'll wind up trading this in.

Awwe Maaannnn, The Texas meet is right around the corner.

I know all about the sunroof leaking. Mine actually blew out and now I have no glass in my roof at all. Your prolly gona need to get it resealed and check the hoses for clogs. I wish I had and I wouldnt have to spend the money on a new sunroof thats a b!tch to find (aftermarket.)

by **kenny6683** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 1:34 pm

Jakecallun20 wrote:I am still waiting on my mechanic, soon I'm hoping. I have more bad news to bring to the table....turns out the leaking sunroof/driver door gasket that I thought was no biggie, has turned into a huge ordeal recently with our week straight rain here....turns out that there is nothing but mildew between my headliner and roof, there are water stains everywhere and the entire car wreeks of wet dog/gym socks. Great. Oh and when I left work tonight, I shifted from reverse to drive and heard this horrible creaking sound and the car lurched rather hard while I had my foot on the brake. Joy. I'm debating on weather or not to even bother with changing the EGR valve and POS sensor since more than likely I'll wind up trading this in.

Anytime the sunroof is leaking you must always check the drain lines...a lot of people dont know this but they do have rubber lines/hose that run towards the trunk to drain water that comes into it. if they are glogged then you will end up with leaks inside the car or flooded interior/ headliner...etc

FYI
"Everyone with a sunroof equipped vehicle should keep the drain channels cleared out periodically. There are 4 of them. The two front ones go to the front door hinge area. The back ones go to different locations depending on model. VW suggests using the cable from an old speedometer cable (removed from the sheath). What you need is something long and stiff enough to push through the channels but not too thick so you can get it through the holes. Some suggest fishing line or weedwacker line of sufficient thickness if you don't have an old speedometer cable."

Anyways hope that helps

by **Jakecallun20** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 9:03 am

Yeah, it looks like I'm gonna be rolling up to the Solaraguy meet in a V6 Honda Accord! Woohoo... Looks like this will more than likley be my new ride. Carmax quoted me $1387...joy

Website · by **99BlackSandv6** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 10:48 am

Use www.wheelsmaster.com go to wheel sizes. They have the best calculator and actually show you a comparison of every aspect of the setup.

by **LEE337** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 4:45 pm

Jakecallun20 wrote:Yeah, it looks like I'm gonna be rolling up to the Solaraguy meet in a V6 Honda Accord! Woohoo... Looks like this will more than likley be my new ride. Carmax quoted me $1387...joy

What?

.......my eyes deceive me. I thought I read your going to show up to the Texas Meet in a Honda :cry:

by **Jakecallun20** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:34 pm

I may have to....the Lara pulled a no start on me this morning, for whatever reason then fired up like normal.... I guess I need a new car a lot sooner than I thought. I really don't want to own a H....H....o...nda but its not a terrible car. 90k miles, J30A1 V6 4AT, silver 2 door coupe with black leather interior. 6500. I drove it and its quick, but it doesn't have the smooth ride the Solara did in its prime.

by **Jakecallun20** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:40 pm

Alright, 6k out the door for the Honda. Its funny...as soon as I get home after filling out some paper work at the dealer, I get online and find this: http://www.hondaproblems.com/Accord/tra ... lure.shtml

Great... Just great. Never again will I drive an automatic.

by **ThatVietGuy** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:50 pm

I can tell you right now the auto tranny in my 2000 V6 Accord is definitely not a smooth shifter. I wouldn't be surprised if it went out in the next 10,000 miles.

Have fun

by **LEE337** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 3:00 pm

Jakecallun20 wrote:167k and the MOTOR runs fantastic.

God bless Toyota V6 engines!

Feels like it was yesterday......wait, it was. Im confused. :think:

by **Jakecallun20** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 7:25 pm

What I meant by that is the motor runs great.... The transmission, not so much.

What is this? UPDATE, car seems to shutter and shake...

Who is online