A Little Help Please...CPe

[GzNutz]

Warning this is a somewhat lengthy read....

Thursday was a nice day so I decided to clean my CP-e filter. I cleaned it, let it dry, then oiled it up. I didn't unhook the battery because I have never previously had an issue with the ecu adjusting. Got the filter back on and started her up, and parked back in the garage. On my way to work Thus. I noticed the idle was not rough but was swelling a bit. Upon leaving a stoplight the car almost stalled but made it the rest of the way to and back from work (about 5 min city drive). Immediately Friday morning I checked all the seals and did not find a vacuum leak. My AFR's before held a steady 14.8-15.1 at idle, they now range from 12-17. P0171 and P0174 popped up while driving from the hella lean 17's.

Today, thinking excess oil from the filter might be on the MAF sensor, I cleaned it but this did not do the trick. Just a few mins ago I popped off the cover on my URD MAF sensor calibrator and hooked up the laptop to pull some numbers. To my surprise, the software is reading RPM's of 4500 when the car is at idle (700). The voltage reading is at 1.1V when the car is not running. I have been using the URD box since Feb of this year without any problems (soldered in).
I've pretty much ruled out a faulty MAF sensor as the cause.
Now I'm thinking a short or feedback from the NOS window switch might be to blame.

So... can anyone give me an idea of why the box is getting effd up RPM readings? Any insight is greatly appreciated.

....off to check the connections to the ecu.

'05 3MZ, CP-e, JPP, URD box retuned with PXL's S/S fuel map

[GzNutz]

Just unhooked the nos switch and still getting high rpm readings. Time to email urd.

[~SolaRaSpeed~]

I think you have a leak somewhere, if not then you're right it is time to email URD. Have you tried unhooking the battery since then to clear the codes? Last time I had those codes it was due to a gasket around the brake booster and the intake manifold not being tightened down enough. Keep us updated.

[michaels artic frost]

I'm sure you've already disconnected the battery and let it sit and reconnect.

[GzNutz]

Yup, already disconnected the battery. I've got PXL's S/S box which I'll be switching out with mine tomorrow. Since the car's tach is reading properly, I'm assuming it is the box thats messed up.

What frequency should I expect for the tach input at about 700 RPM?

[michaels artic frost]

I've got an MSD Digital RPM Window Switch on mine that has a digital output to monitor when it's safe for me to spray. Is your box something like that?

http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD/121/8969/10002/-1

[GzNutz]

The box from NOS is exactly like that. Reads for the full throttle voltage then sprays when the rpms are in between like 2500-6000.

What is giving me problems is box similar to the tuneable CP-e black box. With the URD unit I can read realtime rpm + maf voltage. Its the urd box that is reading rpm's incorrectly.

[michaels artic frost]

Are there any controls on the CP-e black box, I only vaguely had an opportunity to check out Down2theC (Mike, the other Admin) when he was the first one to have it installed.

Hope you get it taken care of.

[GzNutz]

I just read the tach line and found a steady 6.8V going into the urd unit. So I'm thinking the rpms to the box a frequency driven. Now I need to find a meter that can read frequency...damn it!

[GzNutz]

After visiting various electronic stores looking for a frequency meter, I ended up at Advance Auto. I found an Actron auto trouble shooter CP7677 which low and behold.... reads RPMs. Used the 6cyl setting plugged into the wire feeding the urd box and it registered exactly what my tach was telling me. The URD box is the cause of my problems. Luckily I've got PXL's Split Second box on standby waiting to go in tomorrow. So I hope the swap will be the end of my problems.

[GzNutz]

S/S box is in and also reads incorrect RPMs. I've narrowed the stuttering with idle down to a vacuum leak somewhere as well as a missing exhaust gasket between my cat and resonator. I'm leaning towards possible R4 software malfunctions because windows updated itself a few days ago and may have corrupted the software. A uninstall and reinstall hopefully will fix the RPM mystery.

[mik3y]

update?

[GzNutz]

I had a missing exhaust gasket between the cat and resonator. Got that replaced and now the lara is too f'n quiet. I was hoping the gasket might have been the reason for the wideband to be jumping all over the place, but it wasn't. I sprayed started fluid all over my vacuum hoses, joints, intake and manifold trying to find a leak, but no luck there either.

After reinstalling the R4 software to read the URD data, I realized that not only are my RPMs stuck at 4500-5500 but my MAF voltage is stuck at 1.1V. Both lines feeding the box are active and consistent with the car's guages. I have been intouch with Gadget @ URDUSA but even he seems to be at a loss for words. I understand the difficulty involved with diagnosing and trouble shooting when you can't see the problems manifesting in person.

I have swapped both URD and S/S units but get the same results. Both units have been soldered in. The lara's idling seems relatively stable but I can see on the wideband that the ecu is struggling to keep the afr around 15. The car is driveable but leans out when the MAFSC doesn't move to a richer part of the map.

My next step will be to add an additional ground wire directly to the chassis from the URD box.

[GzNutz]

Just reground the box and still a no go. Only cels being thrown are p0171 and p0174 while driving long distances.

[NightRider]

^^^ And these issues started after you cleaned your intake filter?