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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Tear down to replace knock sensor
Stock talk about the Generation 1 and 1.5 Toyota Solara which were produced from 1999 to 2003.

Tear down to replace knock sensor

Tear down to replace knock sensor

Postby jstarone » Thu Jul 16, 2009 3:52 pm

I have a question about replacing knock sensors. How far do I have to rear the motor down? I know they are on the block, under the intake plenum, but If I just take the intake mani and plenum off, can I get at them?

Do I have to take the intake mani off and then the plenum? or can they both come off at the same time?

Another question, the toyota manual referrers to using 'SST' a lot. what is sst?
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Postby akora12 » Thu Jul 16, 2009 4:07 pm

You can reach the sensors once the intake plenum and manifold are off. Obviously, the TB and a few other surrounding things need to come off in order to get to those. I don't think you can get to all of the manifold bolts w/o removing the plenum first.

SST is a special service tool, typically made by SPX for Toyota. Basically, it's a tool that is built for a specific purpose. You can usually get the job done with other tools, they're just not as efficient.

Oh, and it's a good idea to replace the coolant bypass hose while you have the manifold off. If you go that route, you'll need to drain the coolant first.
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Postby Gregtrd » Thu Jul 16, 2009 4:22 pm

Oh, and it's a good idea to replace the coolant bypass hose while you have the manifold off. If you go that route, you'll need to drain the coolant first.[/quote].
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You need to drain the coolant to get to the knock sensors, if you don't when you remove the lower intake manifold you'll get coolent in to cylinders 5&6.
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Postby akora12 » Thu Jul 16, 2009 4:28 pm

^That's right, I forgot it ran through the manifold. I didn't even think about it since I did the bypass hose along with the sensors.
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Postby jstarone » Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:20 pm

You need to drain the coolant to get to the knock sensors, if you don't when you remove the lower intake manifold you'll get coolant in to cylinders 5&6.


Ah, thats very useful to know

I ordered the hose to replace it, and I ordered the lower gasket but I guess im going to need both since I have to take them off one at a time (plenum and manifold)[/quote]
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Postby ASG14 » Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:37 pm

Items to be replaced when changing the knock sensors on a 1MZ:
1: Coolant bypass hose (~$14)
2: Knock sensor harness (~$35)
3: Both intake manifold to head gaskets (~$30 each).
4: Coolant/Antifreeze

Make SURE to drain the coolant before you take the manifold off!

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Postby lexmex » Sat Jul 18, 2009 6:17 am

This might be useful to look at, too.

http://www.findonefindall.com/toyota-si ... sensor.htm
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Postby jstarone » Mon Jul 20, 2009 3:16 pm

AH, that pictures pretty much clears it up lol. Thanks!!!
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Postby alltrac92 » Wed Jul 22, 2009 9:13 pm

ASG14 wrote:Items to be replaced when changing the knock sensors on a 1MZ:
1: Coolant bypass hose (~$14)
2: Knock sensor harness (~$35)
3: Both intake manifold to head gaskets (~$30 each).
4: Coolant/Antifreeze

Make SURE to drain the coolant before you take the manifold off!

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Any clearance issues with the coolant bypass hose if you plan on installing a GM knock sensor?
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Postby amabsolute » Sun Aug 09, 2009 11:16 pm

Does anybody know the part# for the knock sensor harness? I went to the dealership and they told me it was part of the complete wiring harness and couldnt be ordered seperately

thanks in advance
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Postby JvR » Mon Aug 10, 2009 3:11 am

I wont go that far, it is just a waste of time.

Just relocate the sensors. It will only take you 30 minutes to finish the job.You only need 2 knock sensors and a wire harness.


I mount my senors (with some iron brackets) on the intake plenum.
Very close to the original place. I have never had any problems and the sensors are working like normal

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Forget the hoses...this is the GPL/LPG system :oops:
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Postby jetbtkng » Mon Aug 10, 2009 12:39 pm

or you can put them here, gregtrd makes these, Image.......................... :drinking:
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Postby RON » Mon Aug 10, 2009 2:08 pm

jetbtkng wrote:or you can put them here


Greg only used ONE sensor on my hook up...so you really don't need two there at all, since they're BOTH located in the *same place* as far as the engine is concerned.. On the stock set up, they *listen* to two SEPARATE banks...this relocate is really in *one place*.

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Postby akora12 » Mon Aug 10, 2009 2:27 pm

I just relocated one stock sensor where the idler plate bolts near the coolant neck. Works great.
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Postby RON » Mon Aug 10, 2009 4:01 pm

akora12 wrote:I just relocated one stock sensor where the idler plate bolts near the coolant neck. Works great.


Sounds like my set up...Greg used a stock sensor as well. I like his set up (shown in the video pic) because it's located 1) on the engine and 2) it's not near anything that's *vibrating*. Glad to hear you're not having any issues with that SOB anymore :D ..hope I'm just as fortunate. One thing we can BOTH be assured of>>>>>if we ever have to replace the sensor, it's a 5 min job! :drinking:
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