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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - need long lasting grip?
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

need long lasting grip?

Postby rewmomi » Mon Feb 09, 2009 8:31 am

entry level autocross type tire great cornering capabilities in wet or dry comp.
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Postby Eye8Pussies » Mon Feb 09, 2009 8:33 am

also too, of course...budget?
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Postby Aotoyota » Mon Feb 09, 2009 9:06 am

gnegroni wrote:
Eye8Pussies wrote:coilovers do not solve traction problems when your tires suck

and what gnegroni said is also one of the most important things- tread ratings don't really mean that much per se. just know that if it's low, it's going to wear fast and if its high, it's going to wear slowly, but there's no definite mileage. especially when everybody drives differently and under different conditions- i.e. highway vs in town.

and as everybody's been saying...there's no such thing as good tire rating and good grip.

Thanks for the backup, Eye8Pussies. My trustworthy tire salesman keeps reminding me that those treadwear mileage stated never really come close to manufactures rating.

Back to topic, do keep in mind that if a tire states traction AA > A, but not exactly as you might think:

"Traction grades represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on asphalt and concrete test surfaces. As of 1997, the traction grades from highest to lowest are "AA","A","B" and "C". A tire graded "AA" may have relatively better traction performance than a tire graded lower, based on straight-ahead braking tests. The grades do not take into consideration the cornering or turning performance of a tire."

Source: DiscountTire.com

"Traction: Tire traction is rated AA, A, B or C, with AA at the top of the scale. This rating is based on the tire's ability to stop a car on wet concrete and asphalt. It does not indicate the tire's cornering ability. According to this NHTSA page, the Firestone Wilderness AT and Radial ATX II tires that have been in the news have a traction rating of B."

Source: HowStuffWorks.com

Not all is that bad...having AA vs A where it rains most of the time like my homeland is a definite plus.

In the end, best for traction might be wider size tire & rim (going from 6.5" to 7" or 7.5" - bigger contact patch (more suspension strain though which translates to having worn-out bushings ahead of time). I've also read that the best performing tire is one that is not much wider than the rim (better tire structural stability). Not sure if using spacers adds to traction (spreading out wheel stance).

LOL I do have a question though, what is the correct way to spell it: tire or tyre?


I have to agree that the ratings arent all that they are cut out to be. I had old yoko avid v4s, i believe the treadwear was 500...by 30k miles the tire guy told me I had about 10k left on them! plus they had a 60k mile warranty on them. so take it with a grain of salt.

come close to what you are looking for! they held their ground very well and even after i lowered the car for more fun, they kept up without a problem.
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Postby rewmomi » Mon Feb 09, 2009 10:44 pm

nice but price im not too worried about as long as they dont cost more than the rims im staight loli think my budget would be no mor than like 5-6 hundred
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Postby TMMK Toy » Mon Feb 09, 2009 10:54 pm

I say go to tirerack and check out the reviews of possible tires you're considering. I've found that helpful to determine how a tire is in the dry, wet, performance conditions, and how it wears and ride quality. Treadwear ratings dont mean jack as different manuf. have different ratings, so no real consistency among them
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