Audio Adventures

by **BadAngel** » Sun Jan 11, 2009 10:51 am

hmmm... i would need an EQ then? because i have a reallllly old alpine EQ sitting around... but it uses DINN plugs instead of RCA's...

by **crispone** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 11:53 am

Aotoyota wrote:My .02 cents..

regardless of what is said as the best value or such, take a few weekends to go listen to different speakers. Hearing is so subjective that what I like may not be what you like.

for instance...Crisp loves those Bostons components but Im not a big fan of them because they tend to be on the bright side for my tastes.

so go listen and compare. Since they are rears, I would put more money on a great sound stage and use ok 6x9s for the rear since they are usually for rear fill only.

+100

ABSOLUTELY right! Furthermore, as mentioned, the BA comps. ARE on the "bright" side, and I DO like it that way (WITH the EQ shaping capability I have, it can be carefully matched to my music and taste...) but the MOST important part is how YOU hear and prefer your music.

GOOD advice.

DITTO on the "rear fill" thoughts! :wink:

(For the record, I PREFERRED the ZR series from JL for the doors, but the option to obtain them at that price range "went away" on me before I could snatch them up... and the BA's were there, so I tried it! NOT as "full" in the bass, but great SNAP and as mentioned... BRIGHT and ACCURATE in the highs!)

-crisp :evilbat:

by **crispone** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 11:57 am

One more thing on the Memphis 6x9's... they ARE NOT a simple "drop-in" on the 'lara doors. You have to TRIM the plastic speaker off-sets (stock in the 'lara doors...) to get a proper seat, and this is a little tricky and requires a Dremel tool or some such modding...

...and in the rear DECK, then do not readily SCREW into the existing threads, so I used heavy 3M double-sided foam adhesive tape, which is working very well so far after a couple seasons.

-crisp :evilbat:

by **Aotoyota** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 6:12 pm

some more changed from my .02 cents!

for bass I would invest in some sound dampening too. makes a good
amount of difference to seal off the door. with my 8" in the deadened door, ive measured all the way down to about 45hz.... the sub simply fills in the bottom end.

and an EQ is nice if needed. ive found that unless you are competing an EQ isnt all that necesary. a simple adjustment in basic onboard eq usually does the trick. Again, thats most people.

by **crispone** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:41 pm

Aotoyota wrote:some more changed from my .02 cents!

for bass I would invest in some sound dampening too. makes a good
amount of difference to seal off the door. with my 8" in the deadened door, ive measured all the way down to about 45hz.... the sub simply fills in the bottom end.

and an EQ is nice if needed. ive found that unless you are competing an EQ isnt all that necesary. a simple adjustment in basic onboard eq usually does the trick. Again, thats most people.

Hey! What's your setup? (Sorry if I've missed it.)

I agree on the damping for better (cleaner and pronounced) beat, and find XTC foam baffles (or the like) really help to "contain" the lower body. I try to seal off a lot of the baffle, but always do open a hole in them (sometimes for the wires) so they aren't "pulsing" as an air tight cup. 45hz in the door? That's really LOW! What sub for the lowest fills?

I GOTTA have THIS particular EQ! (nobody will argue that I'm not most people...) It "grows" on you... through multiple systems, to where you don't know how to control the setup without it. Spoiled, really. :wink:

MOST of the time, that type of EQ'ing is NOT necessary NOR helpful to many people. I've heard a good EQ screwed up so many times it's not funny! ...then again, we all "hear" differently.

-crisp :evilbat:

by **BadAngel** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:02 pm

Thanks for the suggestions guys! haha... my latest project for the car will be installing some strobes in the headlights... yeah i'm going over bored with the volunteer fire fighter thing hehe and i just acquired a set of strobe lights for my headlights... i love it when people just get out of my way...(i don't have a problem xD...)

ANYWAY, im gonna go do some speaker research and ill deff get back to you with my opinion... as for suggestions.. .KEEP EM' COMIN!

by **Aotoyota** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:07 pm

crisp... heres the setup..

alpine w505 w USB Ipod connection
alpine pxa-h701 ( digital xover/eq, time alignment google it!)
PDX-4.150 (4X150RMS) a channel for tweets and mid
pdx-4.150 ( bridged.. 300wRMS) for each eight
pdx-1.1000 (sub)
speakers..

dynaudio 362 1" Tweet, 3" silk dome 8" door
Tri-amped...
12" Alpine type-R in a custom sealed box @4 ohm
no rear fill!

deadening
cascade 2vb-hd everywhere. outer and inner skin
of each door. everywhere!

audioquest diamondhead RCA
14ga cable everywhere.
stinger 1000 battery..

whoa... i just realized thats a bunch of stuff.

by **Aotoyota** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:08 pm

oh and badangel. if you are interested I have two sets of dynaudios for sale?.. or anyone reading this. pm me for info..

by **crispone** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 7:24 am

Aotoyota wrote:crisp... heres the setup..

alpine w505 w USB Ipod connection
alpine pxa-h701 ( digital xover/eq, time alignment google it!)
PDX-4.150 (4X150RMS) a channel for tweets and mid
pdx-4.150 ( bridged.. 300wRMS) for each eight
pdx-1.1000 (sub)
speakers..

dynaudio 362 1" Tweet, 3" silk dome 8" door
Tri-amped...
12" Alpine type-R in a custom sealed box @4 ohm
no rear fill!

deadening
cascade 2vb-hd everywhere. outer and inner skin
of each door. everywhere!

audioquest diamondhead RCA
14ga cable everywhere.
stinger 1000 battery..

whoa... i just realized thats a bunch of stuff.

Ahhhhhhhhhh........!

Now I know where you are coming from! AUIDOPHILIA!

Sounds sweet! Would love to see and hear it. How about some pics? (Did you have a thread on this system that I missed?)

PS: WHO NEEDS rear fill with THAT setup, right!???

-crisp :evilbat:

by **crispone** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 7:52 am

Aotoyota wrote:crisp... heres the setup..

PDX-4.150 (4X150RMS) a channel for tweets and mid
pdx-4.150 ( bridged.. 300wRMS) for each eight
pdx-1.1000 (sub)

...so... effectively, although you are a "TOTAL" of three amps, your configuration is a "tri-amping" of the FRONT STAGE and another for the sub. Is this correct?

AWESOME!

-crisp :evilbat:

by **crispone** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 7:56 am

BadAngel wrote:
ANYWAY, im gonna go do some speaker research and ill deff get back to you with my opinion... as for suggestions.. .KEEP EM' COMIN!

Angel,

Per the prior several posts... one consideration in SPEAKERS is "flexibility". With Aotoyota, you have ISOLATION of power delivery to EACH discrete component, which affords MAXIMUM efficiency and accuracy of signal to sound. REALLY killer stuff. In the case of the MEMPHIS (although modest/low end compared to Aotoyota's speakers) they ARE still capable of "bi-amping"... although maybe overkill for the caliber of product, but in the same spirit of delivering LOTS of power through the system.)

...just some thoughts...

-crisp :evilbat:

by **Aotoyota** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 8:42 am

thanks for the compliments Crisp. Its taken years to get this thing right, and still not complete yet. considering to put a 5.25 where the 3" mid is.

and yes.
tri amped as in 150w per tweet l/r, mid l/r and
300w per 8"

cheers. off to work!

by **BadAngel** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:36 pm

Hey guys, i noticed someone had Boston acoustics SX95's for sale... how r throes?

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