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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - shifting is hard when car is on.. car off = smooth shifting
Stock talk about the Generation 1 and 1.5 Toyota Solara which were produced from 1999 to 2003.

shifting is hard when car is on.. car off = smooth shifting

shifting is hard when car is on.. car off = smooth shifting

Postby trqfvr » Fri Jan 02, 2009 7:54 pm

I have searched this website about this problem, but couldnt find answer.

I have 2000 V6 5 Speed.

It takes good effort for shifting into any gear when the engine is ON. when car is NOT on, it shifts real smooth.


Also, I noticed that when i press the clutch , the clutch switch is not pressed (Hence car cannot start)!. i have to press the clutch really really hard to start the car(1'st gear is the toughest). Also when i press/depress the clutch, the spring near it makes noise.

I checked the clutch fluid, it was LOW. I refilled it, but i still face the same problem.

Do I need a new clutch? or changing tranny fluid can solve the problem?
I feel that clutch is not engaging fully and hence , hard to shift into gear.


p.s. I replaced slave cylinder last summer.
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clutch

Postby NRDriver » Fri Jan 02, 2009 8:18 pm

most likely bad clutch. maybe bad slave cylinder
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Thank you for the quick reply.

Postby trqfvr » Fri Jan 02, 2009 8:31 pm

I don't know anything about hydraulic clutch.

Is there a way to adjust the push rod play or pedal free play? May be this can fix the problem?
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Postby System_Crash » Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:54 am

Sounds like you're synchronizers are burnt up/ damaged maybe
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Postby trqfvr » Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:25 am

i am going to the dealership today and take their input and post it back here
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Postby youngblood » Sat Jan 03, 2009 12:50 pm

Your clutch and transmission are fine (in all likelyhood).
You have a leak/bad clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, or hydraulic line. You have air in the system now that got there because of low fluid and/or the failure of one of the components mentioned above. Take it in ASAP so you don't do damage to your tranny.

If you have trouble shifting when the vehicle is running but it's fine when the engine is off, you have a clutch issue. If you have a hydraulic clutch, suspect those components as being the problem rather than a broken pressure plate, etc.

Good luck!
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Postby trqfvr » Sat Jan 03, 2009 1:34 pm

I went to Stealership, they said i need new clutch without even looking inside. Asked for $94 to diagnose the problem. I left.

I went to local dealer, he said its master cylinder which is not giving enough pressure to clutch(?). Master cylinder was changed about 6-8 months ago but that guy DIDNT fix the leak which caused its failure. so now NEW master cylinder is gone bad due to same leak. He tried bleeding the master cylinder but yielded no result.

I hope new master cylinder will solve the problem. How much should i expect to pay for this?


Engine running = hard shift (1st gear toughest)
Engine NOT running = very smooth shift
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Postby chrom3titan » Sat Jan 03, 2009 1:36 pm

omg... that master cylidner. I was charged almost 400$ to replace my master cylinder and they said it was for my brakes??? I don't understand .. It was the first thing that fvcked up in my car btw
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Postby trqfvr » Sat Jan 03, 2009 1:44 pm

When last time master cylinder was changed, the clutch didn't pulled back once i press it. This time it is coming back fine. May be it's not that bad yet.
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Postby lvmiltenberger » Sat Jan 03, 2009 2:07 pm

You don't need a clutch I used to shift mine with out the clutch all day long learn to match revs and have fun. If you do it wrong you'll ruin the synchros so get good quick.
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Postby lvmiltenberger » Sat Jan 03, 2009 2:10 pm

You have to bleed the system anytime you replace the slave or master cylinder or your not going to have good pressure on the clutch that would be why it didn't return back to you the first time you pressed it. You probably still have air in the line but now you are making pressure unlike before when you were leaking pressure.
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Postby trqfvr » Sat Jan 03, 2009 2:59 pm

lvmiltenberger wrote:You don't need a clutch I used to shift mine with out the clutch all day long learn to match revs and have fun. If you do it wrong you'll ruin the synchros so get good quick.


can you give me some hint to match REV until i get my car fixed..
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Postby lvmiltenberger » Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:43 pm

Well you basically have to wait for the revs to drop when up shifting, and you have to get the revs up for down shifting. I found that if you shift from 2nd to 3rd at 3k it slides in around 2250, 2300. Every shift is different though so you need to figure it out. The synchos should guide it in the first few times, but if you rely on the synchs every time you will wear them out and it will start to grind. I would not even attempt this if you are new to driving a stick but if your not then this should make sense to you and you should be able to figure it out.
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Postby SpeedySolara » Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:06 pm

The trickier part is getting the car back into gear. I'd suggest start practicing when to take it out of gear and then when you get a feel for not using the clutch try to get it into the next gear but like he said, you will need to let the revs go up or down (depends on whether you're shifting up or downshifting) before you put the car back in gear. Good luck.
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Postby youngblood » Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:20 pm

'Double clutching' will help you shift when the clutch won't disengage but it won't help you get into gear when you've been sitting at a traffic light. You need to get this fixed asap because double clutching and rev-matching is tricky for many people as well as the other problem stated above. It will be easy to destroy your tranny- really easy!

Also- the clutch master cylinder is different and completely unrelated to the brake master cylinder.
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