brakes are F*****

[xh0rnsb0yx]

so here's my situation...

i installed new rotors/pads/stainless steel lines over the summer and my brakes went out about 2 months ago. just dropped it off at brake check to get a free estimate and heres what's wrong.

they told me that the stainless steel lines in the back are somehow torn and one in the front is wet so they're assuming it's leaking or something, they suggest i replace them all with oem style lines.

then there's the master cyclinder..since ive been riding around with no brakes it has worn the seals of the mc and they need replacing as well.

so parts and labor comes out to 490 dollars!

couple questions here. first: any way to make this a bit cheaper? im going to look around for prices on oem lines but are there any other ways?

#2 - how the hell do stainless steel lines tear??? i dont see how that could happen i havent hit anything or ran anything over.

#3 do ya'll think that this is a fair price?


thanks

[no_escape]

Ask some car buddies on who they goto for a mechanic and get a second opinion to make sure they aren't BS'ing you.

[xh0rnsb0yx]

i guess i could take it to some place in my hometown in a couple days (i just moved to a new town so i dont know any good places around here) but i just contacted tirerack on what to do since i bought them through tirerack and they're giving me a call back monday

[Eye8Pussies]

not sure on the first one, though the fittings at the end can start going due to rocks, salt,, etc, and the stainless steel part is on the outside of the rubber on the inside, so if the rubber somehow gets brittle, it's possible. not likely but possible

as for the price...I'd say that's a steal for 4 new brake lines, a master cylinder and labor actually

[youngblood]

not sure on the first one, though the fittings at the end can start going due to rocks, salt,, etc, and the stainless steel part is on the outside of the rubber on the inside, so if the rubber somehow gets brittle, it's possible. not likely but possible

as for the price...I'd say that's a steal for 4 new brake lines, a master cylinder and labor actually

I agree the price is reasonable. Why don't you do the job yourself? If you can do brake lines, you can do the master cylinder. It's very simple.

[sydemoid]

I know its a little off topic, but related...

anyone know if there is a bigger master cylinder that fits?

[xh0rnsb0yx]

yeah i guess that would save on the labor costs by doing it myself, i just dont know where to begin with the master cyclinder

[ASG14]

The Master Cyl for me was easier then the Lines, lol.

Get a Reman one at an auto parts store. There are 2 bolts that hold it to the circle object thingy (wtf is the name, I forgot?!?!??!), and 2 brake coming out of it. For the 2 brake lines, hit it with PB Blaster 1st. Undo/loosen those 2 lines BEFORE you unscrew it from the firewall. Gives it a LOT more support. also pick up a new gasket that goes between the MC and the circle thingy, lol.

[xh0rnsb0yx]

ok im going to try and search for some tutorials for this on SG and if not then google or something, but is autozone going to have the cheapest MC

[Jakecallun20]

[quote="xh0rnsb0yx"]ok im going to try and search for some tutorials for this on SG and if not then google or something, but is autozone going to have the cheapest MC[/quote

Oh my god I hope your not going to the brake check by academy off of 183. That place is worse than hell. I took my car there one time for an estimate, when my rear rotors were shot, and they told me my brand new front brakes were completely gone. Broke one of my wheel studs off and didn't even tell me. I had to fix it, next time I rotated. Horrible mechanics.

[xh0rnsb0yx]

^dam ill be sure not to go there. i actually go to school in college station right now i just haven't updated my info

i think im going to replace the master cylinder and see if that solves the problem, if not i guess ill have to replace the lines

[Chinky420]

^ from longhorn land to aggie central, huh?

i wish i knew someone that had work done in CS, for a recommendation for you.

but since i don't, i'd say to do the work yourself.

and jake, i'd have raised hell about a broken wheel lug stud. them letting the car go with one broken is a safety no-no. in fact, i had a broken stud on mine (by my own doing), and when i took it to my tranny mechanic, he repaired the lug stud for free, based on it being for customer safety, and the liability associated with releasing a car from a shop, that has broken parts on the wheel assembly.

sure, they probably didn't have to fix it, but the fact that they did tells me that it's probably a big deal if a shop broke one and didn't tell the customer. and i didn't even tell them about it, i forgot to. but they were looking out for me.

hornsby: hope it all works out man.

[sydemoid]

Oh yeah...

I remember seeing someone with a Gen 4 with 96 ES300 front calipers... they were dual piston.

I see that Tony the Tiger also uses them on his Camry... just a thought

[ASG14]

^ 94-96 1MZ ES300 and Camry with ABS use them. My Camry has it stock.

[xh0rnsb0yx]

thanks chinky and yeah its definately a different world over here in aggieland and missing lugs are dangerous, i can attest to that from experience over this summer..one of my wheels flew off while i was driving because someone didnt put all my lugs back on after trying to steal my rims..fun crap