Big 3 Upgrade and New Alternator - Lots of Questions, Help!

[hari-bhari]

I just purchased a highlander alternator (130A) and am planning on installing it over xmas break along with a big 3 upgrade. I only have 2 weeks off from school so I've got just once chance to buy everything and get it installed. I've read the thread on the big 3 upgrade over at sounddomain, but I had a few questions. Once the project is successful, I was going to post a tutorial with pictures.

1) Wire gauge? Is 4awg enough for the big 3 if leaving the stock wiring in place (as most people have recommended)? My current wiring to my amp is 4awg and it's plenty since my amp is only 700W RMS. I am planning on either buying from partsexpress or knukonceptz and getting flexible cable.

2) I am seeing varying theories on fusing. Since I am upgrading the alternator from stock 80A to the highlander's 130A, do I need to install a new fuse? Is the stock cabling fused between the alternator and battery, and is that something I will have to relay through?

3) What type of connectors will I be needing? Is it a good idea to buy new battery terminals? I looked at the positive terminal of the battery and it seems like the cable is split into two different PVC jackets going to two different places. I'm not really sure what to do with this or how to replace it. I also am not sure about the cables from alternator --> battery and chassis --> engine. Which ones are these? Pics would be great!

4) Is there anything else I need to consider or that I'm forgetting? From what I've read the alternator is just bolt in replacement, so I'm hoping it will be easy.

I know its a lot of questions, and I'm pretty much asking to be spoonfed. But I want to go ahead and order in the next couple of days so everything will be here by around the 20th and then I'll have time to install it over break. I have some huge finals this week so I don't have a lot of time to do my own research as I normally would, so any help from someone who has done this would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Aotoyota]

in order which they were asked.

1. the bigger the better. 4 gauge should be fine with 700 w total system? just having the alt will be a large improvement.

2. I wouldnt worry about it, keep the fusing as is. the fuses should be equal to total fusing of the system...might get a circuit breaker instead. easier to deal with and no nutty tools to keep in the car, thats what i run. a 120A and i have about 2500w rms in my system

3. upgrade all the chassis cabling will be good. so block to chassis and the rest. new terminals is for looks esp if you have just a 4ga.

4. forgetting.. get a good deep cycle battery, im not a big fan of the optimas, but the stinger or kinetik or odessey is what i prefer..

and after all that...i think you are wasting time with the complete big three. just do the alt and call it a day and upgrade the cable to the batt from the alt. 700w isnt much on a 130A alternator; it comes out to about 50 amps if you can sit and use that much power continous. but for a quick burp, the battery should be fine

Im doing about 2500w without the big three, just a stinger battery but thats my two cents.

might check diymobileaudio.com , those guys have a wealth of knowledge too.

good luck with that.

[hari-bhari]

thanks for your help. not doing the big 3 is pretty much against everything i've read. i have the headlight dimming and constant dead batteries which i am guessing is because the stock 80A alternator couldn't provide enough power to run everything AND charge the battery while the car was running. i just figured while im in there, why not? still not clear though on how i would be connecting the new wires alongside my existing ones without new connectors? also does our stock alternator go through a fuse before getting to the battery?

[Aotoyota]

so for connecting the alternator to the battery, its not that you are replacing the factory harness/cables but you are adding one in parallel to the battery.
this helps with the flow of juice back to the battery. how? simple electronics theory says that electrical current goes on the path of least resistance.

between a 2ga vs a 10 ga( for example) power will go thru both pathes but will take the 2ga before the 10ga.

terminals can be as simple as crimp style ring terminals. just remember to use wire loom in the engine bay and to secure the cable to something.

[corlon]

go with a 4ga or bigger ground from the battery to the alt as well. the alt case is your absoltue ground.

[hari-bhari]

got the new alternator in today finally, it took a couple of hours because i kept having to make adjustments to make sure there was enough tension on the belt, so i kept undoing and redoing bolts which was a PITA. is there any way to know when the belt tension is sufficient? i tightened it as much as i could and its pretty damn taut, but i could still turn it some more if i wanted to, but i fear this may snap the belt. what's the rule on this?

also i'll be doing the big 3 tomorrow, but i dont know what the 'chassis to engine block' wire means. can anyone explain? ill post up pics when im done!

[Aotoyota]

well usually the engine block has a wire that is connected to the chassis.
wire is sometimes on the side of the engine block. check the manual if you have one.

and beef up the grd of your battery, good luck cheers

[hari-bhari]

sorry to keep asking questions, but i just want to make sure. the last 'chassis to engine' wire can go from an alternator mount point (like a bolt) to anywhere on the chassis? so in essence i am connecting the negative terminal of the battery (also ground to chassis) to the alternator casing, correct?

[LEE337]

hari-bhari - Where did you purchase your Highlander Alt and Big 3? Web sites if you got'em.

[hari-bhari]

alternator off ebay. car had 59k and i paid about 100 shipped. seems to be working fine so far. wires for the big 3 i got off knukonceptz.com, i got the klmx cable, 89c per foot, very nice and very flexible. 6 4awg ring connectors for 99c each from the same site, and a mini anl fuse and holder for the alternator to positive batt terminal for 7 bucks. total cost was around 60 because i also ordered new batt terminals from partsexpress for 20 shipped, and 20ft of wire cuz i needed extra for some other stuff (otherwise u would only need about 8ft i think)

[Aotoyota]

sorry to keep asking questions, but i just want to make sure. the last 'chassis to engine' wire can go from an alternator mount point (like a bolt) to anywhere on the chassis? so in essence i am connecting the negative terminal of the battery (also ground to chassis) to the alternator casing, correct?

the chassis to engine is an actual strap. im not sure where it is, since i have a gen 2 but if you get under the car im sure you will find one that is bolted to the block and the other end to the chassis.

i usually just did the neg batt terminal to the chassis with a big gauge cable. then the alt to the pos on the battery to start off. then if the ambition really kicks in, the chassis to engine one...