Who wants more torque?

[sydemoid]

Well, I remember Greg and Gabe had them energy suspension press in motor mount things.... only 5 made, those energy suspension bastids!

So, understanding the amount of power you actually deliver to the ground is adversely affected by the amount of engine movement your motor mounts allow.... I had to come up with something...

I'm not blown... yet, but shoot, reliability, and longevity are two things I seriously hold in regard, as the rest of you do....

I apologize in advance for the lack of eye candy, but PtBaller can attest to my work, and had some work done by me also. But, in lieu of the Energy suspension press in bushing, I bored out the rear engine mount, and cleaned it out good, used a mixture of liquid urethane (hard as heck to find). poured it in after ensuring a good seal (had a boo boo on first attempt). Let it cure for 2 days, and had the mount, both CV axles, front crontrol arms with energy suspension bushings pressed in, and new ball joints installed.

results:

1) the energy suspension bushings for the front control arms are a must have if you are a demanding driver, from my few days of break in, these things allow you to take turns a lot faster, and keep the car smooth thru the transition <- yes... my suspension is highly modded I know (JIC FLT A2's, whiteline FSB, TRS RSB). But I noticed a serious improvement.

2) The rear mount has been holding up to my abusive ways, the only drawback is engine vibration at high rpm's, somewhere in the 4500-5000 range.... regardless, the engine might vibrate, but you feel the pull all the way throughout the powerband. Well.... I kinda kicked a 2000 Maxima SE's butt by 3-4 lengths yesterday.... he cut me off on the highway, close call... so after he was 2-3 lengths ahead, I took off, he muts have heard my intake, and stepped on it (his rear end squated when he gunned it), we both ran for a few, til I just out ran him... hard, we weren't going too fast, but figure from 40 mph to 95.... he gave me one of them approval nods afterwards lol.

I am considering providing my services, pending how mine holds up, I wouldn't ever suggest putting one in, unless it put up with my abuse.

what do you guys think? I'm willing to start somewhere in the middle of Feb, beginning of march.... you would have to provide a rear mount without the CV axle, and I figure a week/ week and a half turntime.

No price, just wondering if you guys would go for it... there are 3 levels to the hardness. I went with the midgrade stuff, it offers a good balance between everyday driving, and full on race.

Oh yeah, you definitely would want to run Jim's torque rod, most likely with a beefed up top mount.... cuz that's how I'm running it.

-Dio

[panic]

the amount of power you actually deliver to the ground is adversely affected by the amount of engine movement your motor mounts allow

Perhaps 5% of the 1st 1 second, after that (when the compliance has reached its limit) no difference at all.

[sydemoid]

I stand corrected... thanks for that.

but you have to admit the toyota mounts are flimsy... eh, they do what I did to race cars, now I kinda know why

[panic]

It does have the "torque" effect you describe - what the car does in the first second is closer to what the driver asked for - it's just momentary, but useful.

Oh, no question that what you're describing is all net gain - if fact, I suspect the laps times would be down, "transients" would be easier to control, camber varies less from the theoretical path, etc.
This also stresses the bushings for everything else in the suspension, so unless everything is analyzed and coordinated some of the effect will just show up elsewhere as compliance (where the bushing or flimsy support component squash or bend, rather than force the component they control to accept linear input). Eventually, where the steering box attaches to the chassis and the cross link will need some help.

[SleeperSolara]

I would be down for that dependin' oh how long it lasts.
I've been tryin' to get my front control arms off to install my SuperPro poly bushin's....

[panic]

I've changed the rubber bushings on other cars, and it's always a bitch. You can use the torch, but very dangerous, smelly, melted flaming rubber dripping down your neck, softens any steel parts you may want to re-use (sleeves), burns the paint off, sooty smoke gets all over. Worst is that you may melt some wire and only find it out when you drive the car - fire or dead short.
If you can reach the angle, they can be slowly destroyed by 1/8" drill through them along the axis of the bolt - takes a long time but harmless. After you have a ring pattern of holes, twist one or the other part and the rubber will shear through.

[sydemoid]

Panic is right, bushing replacement is a Bishhhhh. I did my rear trailing arms, and havent done the front part, mostly due to the fact that it's time comsuming, I'll get to that later.

Torch it is!!

[SleeperSolara]

Panic is right, bushing replacement is a Bishhhhh. I did my rear trailing arms, and havent done the front part, mostly due to the fact that it's time comsuming, I'll get to that later.

Torch it is!!

The rear control arms weren't too bad.
Dogbone bushin' was a bitche.
Now the front control arm.....
Will have to figure that out.

[sydemoid]

eh the rear of the rear control arms isnt that bad, the front part you have to torch.

The front control arms you have to take to a machine shop and have them press the old ones out, and the new ones in.

gimmie ur email, Ill send you a pdf in color with the explanation

[SleeperSolara]

I'm not worried about how to get the bushin' out.
I just need to figure a way to take the 2 bolts the sit next to the strut off.

[sydemoid]

impact wrench... really slow and easy

[SleeperSolara]

impact wrench... really slow and easy

Tried that.... and no luck....
I even sprayed PB-BLaster too.