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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - SUPRA TT BRACKETS PICTURES PG.8
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SUPRA TT BRACKETS PICTURES PG.8

Postby lightear » Sat Sep 20, 2008 9:46 pm

First of all this is not a flame post. Mistake can be on my side. Need inputs.

Okay. Brackets and rotors are in and initial results are not so good on my Gen 1.5.

1) The bolts provided are size 19. Much bigger than the stock ones (17). By adding the brackets the outer caliper portion does not screw in to the holes. If you look carefully in the below pic you can see the owner of this vehicle shaved part of the bolts connecting the bracket. Can someone confirm if this was a known issue?

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2) Initial slow breaking to check if brakes work was good. Took it out on the road to do 60-45 mile warm up stops. After the third one, sound started coming out of right hand side. As if rotor was uneven. Sort of a sine wave grind sound, if you guys get what i mean?

3) Brakes smell like I was coming off of the mountain. Smells really bad

4) And soooo much heat is emanating from the brake and rims.

edit: 5) Forgot to mention that first and second 60-45 warm up stops were smooth. but the third developed rattling.

Did I do something wrong and can you guys recommend I try something before I ruin my rotors or brake pads?
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Postby r0w » Sat Sep 20, 2008 10:39 pm

For me when I had a similar problem when I first got home with my lara, my breaks were super hot and smelly. My calipers were shot. Don't know if this helps but just what my problem was. I know that other members were saying that, for 1.5 you do have to shave down that part mentioned. Just double check on that before you go and do it... Good luck bro and keep us posted on what the problem is.
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Postby Eye8Pussies » Sat Sep 20, 2008 11:04 pm

yes, jack up the entire front end of the car and turn the rotor by hand...then you can see where its touching and hear it as well

then take off your pads and grind the inside of the caliper down, or the clip that holds the pads as needed
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Postby trdkamuri51o » Sun Sep 21, 2008 12:40 am

u dont need to grind the caliper.. just the bracket for the caliper..

not much is required if any at all =]

its working wonderfully on my 96 v6 calipers.. and the smell well.. it will go away once u brake them in lol.. pun intended

ill get some pix tommrow behind my 19s.. i do have a bit of rubbing but it was expected for a gen3 caliper...

as for the part pictured.. i had the same issue wid them when i mounted them... once again it was grinding the CALIPER BRACKET DOWN

its a very tight clearance but i do support this mod and have had no issues besides those stated

lightear pull off your caliper first and check for a free roll of the caliper.. check your clearances carefully... on the outter edge of the left caliper bracket.. my rotor was very close.. so close that under heavy turning it would touch the rotor.. that would probably be the sound your hearing..
there is not much you can do about that besides shaving the metal down with a rotary tool.. check also on the edge of your rotor to see its not touching.. i cant speak on your specific caliper but im sure your running into the same slight issues...

id suggest just shaving the edges of the bracket as stated rather than the ACTUAL caliper...

pm me or aim me if u have any other questions..

ive tested them on a few mountain roads aroudn my area, minus the cracked fender due to pushing the car harder.. i have no complaints

at least i know my car stopped dummy quicker wid these rotors/brackets/pads

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Postby lightear » Sun Sep 21, 2008 1:40 am

^^ Thanks! I get what you are saying. Grinding the Caliper Bracket down a bit. But before I redo my brakes again I just wanted to confirm: You're talking about the caliper bracket, which is the other piece that holds the caliper right? Not the ericsol supra TT bracket. I see no point in grinding that, so I'm positive you're talking about the bracket which needs to be unscrewed after the caliper is unscrewed.
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Postby trdkamuri51o » Sun Sep 21, 2008 3:07 am

^^ absolutely correct the bracket that holds the actual caliper.. the unit that is relocated.. not the Sp33d bracket but the oem unit that the caliper mounts onto..

i grinded a bit off and it worked just fine for me.. i perfer the larger bolts holding it in to be honest...

and i dont see any major structural integrity issues with it when you grind it down there...

ill go ahead and give some details on what it took to get it to fit the pre 97 v6....

caliper bracket needed about a 4x1cm (1.5 inch) notch put in above the oem holes to mount it to the Sp33d bracket.. this allowed proper fitment of the 19mm bolts that are included with the kit..

the caliper bracket itself is larger overall on the 96+ so because of that, you need to grind down the inner wall of the and notch where the actual rotor fits in (if you do not do this the rotor will not fit due to the extreme larger size

we had to grind out about 1cm of steel from there and add some notches so the rotor could freely spin.. (pix to follow tommrow)
the rotor also touched the outter edge of the mounting bracket where the pads are held in.. we ended up grinding this down about 5mm or so to allow for some clearance for the pad holder (thin metal bracket) the clearence is soo small actually that as i said before on hard corners i hear a scraping sound due to the pad holder touching the actual rotor.. straight on, it has less than a credit car clearence...

im used to these horrid clearences due to my rim size (rear wheel is less than 2mm from the strut) or about 2 credit cards away...

my suggestion: as you put the unit on the car, check all your clearences.. bench grinders are saviors unless u can get a bigger grinding wheel on an angle grinder.. if all else fails get a rotoray tool and a grinding wheel (i had a tapered one and it worked well) we probably spent about 3 hours doing both caliper brackets.. test fit, then grind, test fit then grind, so we would not extremely effect the structural integrity...

hope this helped u in your quest.. u wont have half the problems i did.. but i suggest that first part for your benifit.. and the last (grinding the edge where the pad is held in place) for extra clearence...


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Postby Eye8Pussies » Sun Sep 21, 2008 11:44 am

^ it depends on your car in my case and also with a couple others, the inside the caliper itself and the clips that held the pads had to be ground down an ever so slight bit because the rotor was dragging on it

no changes at all needed on any of the brackets
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Postby JavaJoe_2 » Sun Sep 21, 2008 12:40 pm

Also, check to make sure your calipers aren't hanging up, not allowing caliper to slide. Mine were so gummed up with crap, my rotors turned blue.
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Postby lightear » Mon Sep 22, 2008 4:42 pm

You guys know if a dremel would work for grinding parts of the caliper bracket and the bolt provided by SP33D?
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Postby Solarizona » Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:08 pm

Damn, I thought this was a straight bolt on...and I just bought new rotors and pads. Hopefully the mechanic that I use won't mind doing some "custom" work. Lightear - I'm really curious how yours turn out. Keep us posted and put up some pics when your done. :drinking:
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Postby lightear » Tue Sep 23, 2008 12:29 am

Round two.

Let's just say my GEN 1.5 is driveable! In this second attempt I went out and got a grinding wheel. Grinded the bolts that holds the ericsol bracket just like the picture in my previous post somewhere.

Placed the caliper bracket on, YEAP...rubbing issues with the brake pad brackets. They are the pieces that are removable. I noticed these brakepad brackets were rubbing my rotors where they extend outside of the caliper bracket. I grinded those off. Definitely no structural integrity compromised there.

Put the calipers and my rims back on for test drive.

No noise at all in regular braking. Regular meaning 5-10 mph above speed limit and braking at traffic lights. No sound. Just perfect.

Noise do develop when I slam brakes or do repetitive rough stopping. Almost as if rotor is uneven (i think this may actually be the case!).

All in all it's good but not perfect and the reason may be because I got some aftermarket rotors that weren't perfect. Very little modification was done to get to this point so rest-assured guys. This mod should be easy. I was just an unlucky one. Going to do some more custom grinding later on this week. I will post final pics when I finally give up on this project and find the brakes at an acceptable level.
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Postby akora12 » Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:41 am

Hey lightear, you might post some pics of your work once you figure everything out. I'm sure it will help those who haven't tackled this job yet. Thanks!
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Postby lightear » Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:43 am

Will do.
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Postby Sp33d » Sat Sep 27, 2008 9:35 pm

appreciate you guys having your input into this. i tried to make it as close to ericsol's kit as possible. sorry for the inconveniences.

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Postby trdkamuri51o » Sat Sep 27, 2008 11:53 pm

^^

in your defense mark and to rest people assured.. they are the EXACT same as the ericsol kit.. i mean its a exact duplicate but with better materials overall..

no kidding.. i owned both sets and this one is the one im glad i kept..

it seems that its the width of the rotor that is causing the issues.. this may even be resolved with the possibility of a washer (i noticed it was close on the inside as well..

mark good job on the kit tho.. ill vouch for you 100% and its because i had different brackets that i had any major issues at all!!!
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