i don't know about the the 5sfe, all the applications i've seen jim's on is the 1mzfe
jim's is much stiffer than OEM gas strut mounts. it is literally a steel rod w/ two bushing instead of a gas strut. the bushings damper the amount of movement so much more than the gas strut. it is a solid support, and the engine movement is so little that you will actually notice a slight amount of chassis vibration that wasn't there previously (solid enough to transfer most of the excess vibration to the frame).
as far as buying jim's torque rod, i don't know if jim is even taking orders for group buys. dawgz can call to check, but that's still no guarentee that it will be do-able.
argh > all solara OEM torque rods are gas struts. it seems that the one i posted (above) from jc whitney is a strut-type torque rod, also. the difference is probably that the jc whitney one most likely has a stiffer strut (when i pulled my OEM torque rod, it was really very easy to move the strut up and down by hand). the difference between these and jim's is that jim's is a heim joint (the thing on the end of the jc whit pic) connected to a steel rod, then two nuts (as a locking mechanism), then a washer (to keep the bushings supported), then the two bushings (to absorb vibration and damper the movement), then another washer to cap off the bushings, then another two nuts to lock the assembly in place.
jim's torque rod is set up like this (only it is supposed to be verticle, w/ the J at the bottom)
J-----nnWBxBWnn--
J = heim joint
- = steel rod
n = nut (two together making a lock-nut)
B = bushing, which acts as a shock absorber
W = washer
x = where the mount attaches to the transmission
BWnn-- = the top portion of the assembly; bushing, washer, nut-nut, and the rest of the steel rod poking out the top.
jim's is much stiffer than OEM gas strut mounts. it is literally a steel rod w/ two bushing instead of a gas strut. the bushings damper the amount of movement so much more than the gas strut. it is a solid support, and the engine movement is so little that you will actually notice a slight amount of chassis vibration that wasn't there previously (solid enough to transfer most of the excess vibration to the frame).
as far as buying jim's torque rod, i don't know if jim is even taking orders for group buys. dawgz can call to check, but that's still no guarentee that it will be do-able.
argh > all solara OEM torque rods are gas struts. it seems that the one i posted (above) from jc whitney is a strut-type torque rod, also. the difference is probably that the jc whitney one most likely has a stiffer strut (when i pulled my OEM torque rod, it was really very easy to move the strut up and down by hand). the difference between these and jim's is that jim's is a heim joint (the thing on the end of the jc whit pic) connected to a steel rod, then two nuts (as a locking mechanism), then a washer (to keep the bushings supported), then the two bushings (to absorb vibration and damper the movement), then another washer to cap off the bushings, then another two nuts to lock the assembly in place.
jim's torque rod is set up like this (only it is supposed to be verticle, w/ the J at the bottom)
J-----nnWBxBWnn--
J = heim joint
- = steel rod
n = nut (two together making a lock-nut)
B = bushing, which acts as a shock absorber
W = washer
x = where the mount attaches to the transmission
BWnn-- = the top portion of the assembly; bushing, washer, nut-nut, and the rest of the steel rod poking out the top.
- Chinky420
- SolaraGuy Street Racer
- Posts: 1131
- Joined: Thu Nov 16, 2006 4:32 pm