Positive connection that only gets power when engine RUNS??

[[SMAN]]

Good news, there IS, and it's yellow with a green stripe aswell. If you have the factory service manual, page 40 (wich is page 41 in the pdf) shows the location of generator G2. Attached to the harness, you should find wire for pin4 that is yellow with green strip. That should do it. As far as i can tell, G2 is located directly to the left of the exhaust manifold on both the V6 and I4.

[RDKamikaze]

You are amazing! Thank you so much, it makes a ton of sense. Now to install the kit and test it out! I'm going to run a few errands first and let everyone know how it goes afterwards. Thanks a ton [SMAN]!

[Gadgetjq]

Awesome thanks a ton! I can read a manual but I can't follow a wiring diagram. That's my brother's specialty lol! Thanks so much for your help, I'm excited to test it and post results!

Reading through some of the posts a fairly simple job seems to have gotten sort of complicated. Let's try it step by step

1. Find the green/yellow wire and confirm with a voltmeter that it's switched on when the engine starts and that you have a full 12.6 volts or more. (if it's less you'll have to find a relay other than 12V)

2. Splice into the green/yellow wire connecting a wire from there to the "86" post on a standard 12V 30 amp relay (any auto supply store).

3. Connect the "85" post on the relay to ground.

4. Your relay should now work. Using a continuity tester connected to the "30" and "87" relay posts confirm there's no continuity when the key is off or in 'accessory' but there is continuity after you start the engine.

5. If the relay tests ok connect post "30" of the relay to any 12 volt + source (switched or unswitched won't matter). I'd suggest the 'accessory' wiring (cig lighter) so you won't need to add another fuse.

6. Connect the "87" post from the relay to your accessory + connection. Connect your accessory - wire to any ground.

You're done!
Length of wire runs won't matter much, for the kind of power you'll be pulling 18 gauge wire will be plenty.

[[SMAN]]

You are amazing! Thank you so much, it makes a ton of sense. Now to install the kit and test it out! I'm going to run a few errands first and let everyone know how it goes afterwards. Thanks a ton [SMAN]!

I gotta give credit to gadgetjq on this. He original found the wire, i just built uppon it. But yeah should be easy to do now, just be careful and take your time and allways test twice!

[RDKamikaze]

You are amazing! Thank you so much, it makes a ton of sense. Now to install the kit and test it out! I'm going to run a few errands first and let everyone know how it goes afterwards. Thanks a ton [SMAN]!

I gotta give credit to gadgetjq on this. He original found the wire, i just built uppon it. But yeah should be easy to do now, just be careful and take your time and allways test twice!

Thanks for that great little writeup gadgetjq and for finding the wire! Now there's only one small dilemma; finding the green/yellow wire lol! I know where it is on the manual, but there are two connectors that are kitty-corner of each other so I hope I cut the insulation right the first time . Not a big problem if not, though. It's nothing that electrical tape can't fix.

And is a 12V 40A relay alright? I've heard from different people for the same thing that some use 40A and some 30A, so I don't think it should matter too much, right?

[Gadgetjq]

is a 12V 40A relay alright? I've heard from different people for the same thing that some use 40A and some 30A, so I don't think it should matter too much, right?

The rating is for the amperage you plan to pull 'through' the relay. The 30A will be more than enough for your needs and is a lot simpler to find (also less $$) than the 40 amp.

A lot of auto parts stores carry the "Pilot" brand relay. It's 12V 30 amp. If quality is important to you check your local NAPA store to see if they have any Bosch relays in stock.

Cheers

[RDKamikaze]

Thanks to everyone who helped!

I was able to install the kit yesterday. My car runs nice and I noticed it shifts a little smoother. It's looking to be pretty nice! Only one question, though. I get the battery light on my dash when the car's on now. Is it because I connected it to the alternator wiring? Is it a concern or not? I drove for about half an hour and so far I haven't paid much attention to milage, but more on how it functions.

Thanks again to everyone! I'm going on a cruise next week, so I won't be able to play with it more until I get home. I'll even get pictures up and running on the site then

[[SMAN]]

Where did you attach you power for the device? Did you run it off the battery or off the alternator? BTW, what did you install? I'll check over my code books to see why you'd be triggering that light.

[RDKamikaze]

I have the power for the HHO generator (the device) connected to the relay. The relay power is connected to the battery and the "switching" part that activates it is connected to the alternator wire (yellow/green) that we were talking about earier.

Here's another question. People say that if you're not getting fuel savings to add a MAP adjuster. It's said that MOST EFI cars need this device. I have plans on how to make one for shy of $10, whereas it will cost about $50+ for a descent one on ebay, so I would do that. Where do I hook this sensor adjuster if I need to? I haven't done much looking into that approach quite yet.

[[SMAN]]

yeah see there your starting to get into the more advanced stuff. As far as i can tell, your wire is tied directly to the LED on the dash.... this makes me think that your setup is backfeeding through it and tripping the light. The light is suposed to come on when the alternator fails. Stupid question. Did you cut the yellow-green wire and splice the relay in between, or did you tap the wire, and attach the other end of the relay to ground? As far as i can tell, the light should go on when the car is on but the engine is off, and then it's suposed to go off when the engine goes on. Basicly, one 1 side of the LED you have +12V from the key switch, on the other side you have nothing when the engine is off (hence the discharge light is on) and +12V when the engine is on (the led should be off) my guess is that the relay is allowing another path way for the circuit that is triggering this light to go on (false positive) and that a diode placement should fix it, but i can't find enough technical documentation to explain the exact functioning conditions for when this light comes on yet.

[RDKamikaze]

Wow, that's intense. I tapped into the wire and connected it to another wire that goes to the relay. I have to get going now, so I'll see you all in a little over a week!

[[SMAN]]

Ok, i did a bit more reading and i think i have an idea of how this damn thing is suposed to work. The light works as follows. When you turn the key to on, power from the battery is supplied to 1 side of the light (turning the light on). When you turn on the engine, power from the ALT is supplied to the other end of the light (turning it off). As long as the voltage from the ALT is greater than or equal to the voltage from the BAT, the light stays off. My guess is that your relay has taken away from the voltage on that wire, thus triggering the light. Do you DRL lights still function as normal aswell?

[[SMAN]]

My guess is that something in your splice has caused this (perhaps you hacked the wire apart a little too much) i would disconnect the relay and start the car and see if the light turns off like normal. If you disconnect the relay and the light still doesn't go out, then you potentialy damaged the wire... In theory, what you have described, it should not have effected this setup. Some detailed pictures of your connection points and stuff would really help me figure out if anything was wired wrong.

[RDKamikaze]

Alright, well I'm not sure if my DRLs are still running, actually. I noticed it yesterday when I was driving around before we left for Cali. I didn't see that my DRLs were on when I saw a reflection of my car in a window like normal. I was going to ask about that as well. And we soldered the relay wire on with the other wire. I don't know if that makes any different effect than just a cut and splice.