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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Can someone please show me how to do an oil change (gen 2)
Stock talk about the Generation 2 and 2.5 Toyota Solara which was released in 2004-2007

Can someone please show me how to do an oil change (gen 2)

Re: HELP OIL PAN BOLT SNAPPED !!!

Postby dvdchris45 » Sun Apr 27, 2008 12:00 pm

lemmez wrote:Omg the worst thing happend.


when unscrewing the oil pan bolt it snapped off.. Help what do i do now???? how do i get it out?? this is really frustrating..


go to the dealer or home depot with the broken bolt and have them replace it...do you know how many millimeters it is?
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Postby solara caper » Sun Apr 27, 2008 12:39 pm

If you cant remember the saying righty tighty lefty losey you shouldnt touch you car
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Postby gnegroni » Sun Apr 27, 2008 12:55 pm

Bolt head facing u...Its clockwise tighty, counter losey.

Don't worry on the broken bolt...it happens to the best of us. Is it broken inside, or does it still have some material protruding? If it is protruding, you can try removing it with locking pliers. If not, then you would probably need to purchase a drill bit remover... its kinda like a bit smaller than the bolt u remove which drills inside and pulls it out. As in your AutoZone or hardware store.

BTW, the service specs should give you some info on the bolt type, strength, torque application:
http://cns-design.ru/files/solara/pdf/Service%20Specifications.pdf

Some more reading on the oil pan:
http://cns-design.ru/files/solara/pdf/2AZ-FE%20Lubrication.pdf

Also, if you are going to work on the car, I suggest purchasing a good torque tool for sensitive projects, or even applying torque wheel bolts to spec (eliminates over torque and warping to some degree).
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Re: HELP OIL PAN BOLT SNAPPED !!!

Postby Gadgetjq » Sun Apr 27, 2008 1:20 pm

lemmez wrote:when unscrewing the oil pan bolt it snapped off.. Help what do i do now???? how do i get it out??


You're going to need an EZ-Out. It's kind of like a bolt with very course backward threads. You drill a hole in the broken bolt, insert the EZ-Out then attach a wrench to turn the EZ-Out which 'should' remove the bolt. They're avaiable at any hardware store or Sears.

Are you sure you were turning the bolt the right way? Counter clockwise to remove, clockwise to replace.... Lefty loosey, righty tighty?

BTW my oil change method on the Solara

1. Purchase oil, filter and can of spray engine cleaner like Gunk
2. Run engine for a few seconds to bring any dirt/metal etc. into suspension. Don't run too long though or the exhaust will be too hot to get to the filter comfortably.
3. Raise front of car a few inches then slide oil drain container under engine, remove drain bolt. Allow to drain completely (you can go have lunch)
4. Replace drain plug
5. Slide oil drain pain forward so it's under the filter (located under the front header)
6. Place rags around oil drain pan to catch inevitable drips
7. Unscrew filter ignoring the oil dribbling down the front of the engine and collecting in the belly pan.
8. Lube new oil filter O-ring and install new filter
9. Spray front of engine and everything below it where oil collected with the Gunk then rinse thoroughly with garden hose.
10. Put 5 quarts of oil in engine.
11. Drive.

Cheers
Last edited by Gadgetjq on Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby gnegroni » Sun Apr 27, 2008 1:52 pm

Gadgetjq, is it possible to have 2AZ oil filter filled partially prior to installation? Since the filter installation is completely in a vertical position it can be done and provides a beneficial fill for initial startup. Provided the filter can be removed\placed without too much trouble, isn't this recommended?
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Postby Gadgetjq » Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:05 pm

gnegroni wrote: is it possible to have 2AZ oil filter filled partially prior to installation?


Indeed you can and it would take a little less time to fill (to build full oil pressure to the rest of the engine) but it isn't really necessary. The time it takes to fill the filter is minimal and engine parts (unless the car has been sitting for quite awhile without being run) should have enough oil film on them to provide lubrication during that time.

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Postby gnegroni » Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:15 pm

Copy that... I have never done the Solara's oil filter change, but will probably do so after the 5y/60k expires. I used to do my other cars and could do so in 20-25 minutes or so... that should be fast enough!
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Postby lemmez » Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:26 pm

Thanks guy for the help. I just took it back to ez where i got my first oil changed and told them to fix it. They told me they installed a hollow bolt thing for the oil drain plug ( i was unaware of that). So after 30 mins they got the broken bolt out and put a regular one in. I told them to fill me up with synthetic oil and a mobile one oil filter and they did. Next time i shouldnt have any problems. If you guys take ur oil in to be changed they most likely will change ur plug to this holly one where you only unscrew the middle part. Be careful and dont let the same thing happen to you. Since ez lube has a 12,000 mile or 1 years warranty on all their labor i just called them out on it and got my synthetic change for free and the filter :).
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Postby gnegroni » Sun Apr 27, 2008 4:04 pm

So, it turned out even better...nice! In fact, the bolt breaking might have been product of overtightening during previous oil changes...
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Postby Garrryyunit » Sun Apr 27, 2008 4:08 pm

lemmez wrote: Since ez lube has a 12,000 mile or 1 years warranty on all their labor i just called them out on it and got my synthetic change for free and the filter :).



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Postby PXLpainter » Sun Apr 27, 2008 11:07 pm

Glad you got that taken care of for ya lemmez! :up:

Since the first oil change I had done on my ride, I've only gone to one place so far... Oil Can Henry's in Brea - and still is the closest one to me now, 2 hours away... so I'll have to either plan around a trip down to OC on a weekend near change time or find someone I can trust as well around here.
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Postby gnegroni » Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:23 am

PXLpainter wrote:Glad you got that taken care of for ya lemmez! :up:

Since the first oil change I had done on my ride, I've only gone to one place so far... Oil Can Henry's in Brea - and still is the closest one to me now, 2 hours away... so I'll have to either plan around a trip down to OC on a weekend near change time or find someone I can trust as well around here.

WOW, a two hour drive for an oil change! Talk about sacrifice!
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Re: HELP OIL PAN BOLT SNAPPED !!!

Postby thestevo44 » Tue May 06, 2008 1:46 pm

Gadgetjq wrote:
1. Purchase oil, filter and can of spray engine cleaner like Gunk
2. Run engine for a few seconds to bring any dirt/metal etc. into suspension. Don't run too long though or the exhaust will be too hot to get to the filter comfortably.
3. Raise front of car a few inches then slide oil drain container under engine, remove drain bolt. Allow to drain completely (you can go have lunch)
4. Replace drain plug
5. Slide oil drain pain forward so it's under the filter (located under the front header)
6. Place rags around oil drain pan to catch inevitable drips
7. Unscrew filter ignoring the oil dribbling down the front of the engine and collecting in the belly pan.
8. Lube new oil filter O-ring and install new filter
9. Spray front of engine and everything below it where oil collected with the Gunk then rinse thoroughly with garden hose.
10. Put 5 quarts of oil in engine.
11. Drive.

Cheers


Very good procedure.

For step #3, I prefer the hard plastic ramps that I have, instead of jakcs for things like oil changes where the wheels don't have to come off. Just don't drive off the end!!! No, I've never done that, but I am sure someone has.

For #7, after the first time I changed my oil on my 2004 V-6, and made a mess when I unscrewed the oil filter, I found that it you buy a narrow mouthed funnel that has about a 6 to 8 inch tube, you can from below the engine, place it up underneath the filter, just below the little drip pan thingy, and then the oil will run into the drip pan, into your funnel, and down below any parts you dont want all mucked up. Just BE CAREFUL of the electrical sensor and wire that is in the area. You do not want to break that wire and cause this 30 minute job to become a day-long hassle.

For you newbies changing oil yourself, congrats. I change my own oil, except for about every 25,000 miles I take it to Toyota just so a Toyota mechanic can get in and around the engine and point out things I might miss, like the dog bone engine mount that was cracking on mine. (Under hood, passenger side). The dealer will point out things that need attention, and you can decide what to do. In my case, they wanted $200 to change the part. I bought it for $75 and did it myself. Be careful though.... engine mounts and many other parts require a torque wrench. So, my point is, keep it up, but every once in a while, let a Toyota guy do it. NOT JIFFY LUBE. Toyota, or an import shop that is not hard up or having a slow day. While you are waiting for your oil to drain, if you are not hungry for lunch, take that time to check out yoru suspension parts, your tranny pan, your CV boots, your belts and any other stuff you can find under there. Get familiar with it, and keep an eye out for leaks and stuff.
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