by philosophicaljt » Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:42 am
Actually, it has a LOT to do with how you have the kit installed. If you plugged it together without using a relay, which I am assuming you did, then whats happening is something like this:
Your DRL's are just your high beams, except they are running at half the amperage. So if they normally take 30 amps for full brighness (65 watts etc...), in order to be half as bright (which is assumed, and makes easy math) they now only get 15 amps.
For a normal halogen bulb this is no problem, because as long as you are not applying too much voltage too a halogen bulb, its almost indestructible. However, since you now have a power invertor, a transformer, and a couple AC/DC convertors, this is now slightly risky. Heres why:
That Ballast does a couple things. As soon as you turn on your headlights, it has to supply a high amount of current (amperage) to the bulbs just to get them to initially ignite (Simplified for those who know more...). Once ignited, the bulbs actually require a substantially less amount of power to keep them let, compared to a halogen bulb.
Now lets go back a paragraph or two. If your car wants to only send 15amps to that ballast for use as a DRL, and the ballast wants 35amps just to ignite the bulbs (typical), there is problem number one.
Now, the ballast is being forced to work significantly harder than it should. (The internals of your ballast are going to be running significantly hotter also).
Problem number two could also be that some DRL's actually run cycled. Which I am way too tired to try and explain.
In short, its bad on the HID's because the ballast is going to crap out sooner than normal. Imagine if your computer is suppossed to have a 500W power supply to run efficiently. Then only give it 350W. It will still work. But it will be slow as crap, overheat, and parts will fail faster. The HID ballast works the same way.
Wow. I suck at explaining things, lol.