[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /viewtopic.php on line 988: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Moscow' for 'MSD/4.0/DST' instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /viewtopic.php on line 988: getdate(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Moscow' for 'MSD/4.0/DST' instead
SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Synthetic or natural motor oil?
Stock talk about the Generation 2 and 2.5 Toyota Solara which was released in 2004-2007

Synthetic or natural motor oil?

Postby WXman » Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:28 pm

Hey crazygreek.... how often do you change your oil?

Thanks!
2005 SLE Convertible Nav/TRAC/VSC/Chrome Wheels. Absolutely Red
Image
WXman
Regular SolaraGuy Member
Regular SolaraGuy Member
 
Posts: 64
Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2006 9:21 pm
Location: MS

Postby unbalancedwood » Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:34 pm

Does someone have a tutorial for taking off the valve cover to check out sludge?
Image
User avatar
unbalancedwood
SolaraGuy Street Racer
SolaraGuy Street Racer
 
Posts: 1274
Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 5:44 pm
Location: Charleston SC

Postby crazygreek » Thu Nov 30, 2006 9:06 am

WXman wrote:Hey crazygreek.... how often do you change your oil?

Thanks!


WXman, I have 60,000 miles on my ride change my oil every 5,000 sometimes 6,000 if I am traveling. But when I take my car into the dealership I always have them check the oil for consistency and color and they almost always come back and tell me that everything looks good. I prefer to change it every 5,000 but when you drive a Sept '04 Solara bought in '03 and drop 60,000 miles on in three years well I guess an extra thousand here and there won't hurt anything.

Mostly before I got married I was driving about 3000 miles a month back and forth to VA. Now it's toned down considerable. So I may change every 4,000 to 5,000 just because the car takes shorter trips to work than it used to. It’s all in how you drive, where you live, and weather. Oil tends to break down faster the hotter it gets, but also takes longer to become viscous the colder it is. This all translates to the hotter the temperature the faster your oil will break down. The colder the temperature the more damage to the engine because it takes more time for the oil to heat up and lube all the internal parts. This is why they have different oil weights for summer and winter. This is also why they have engine block heaters for extreme cold temperatures regions.

Sorry for the long answer, could have probably left it at the first line but heh, what the hell didn’t want to work on this stuff anyway. Hope this helps.
crazygreek
Regular SolaraGuy Member
Regular SolaraGuy Member
 
Posts: 72
Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2005 9:34 am
Location: Erie, PA

MY .02 cents

Postby JMSinMaryland » Thu Nov 30, 2006 9:19 am

If you insist on 3-5k OCI stick with dino oil. With syn you are just throwing money down the drain with such a short interval. I keep a 5k OCI with dino and a 10k OCI with Mobil 1 Syn 10W-30 EP with a Mobil 1 Oil Filter. Jon.
17" Toyota Highlander Limited wheels for sale
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/g ... ed-wheels/
User avatar
JMSinMaryland
SolaraGuy Street Racer
SolaraGuy Street Racer
 
Posts: 1749
Joined: Sun Dec 22, 2002 8:27 am

Postby gnegroni » Tue Apr 03, 2007 10:54 am

5k Oil change with Mobil 1 Synthetic...I tend to run the car more like a Ferrari. Anyway, if those "special" 10k-15k filters are not available, why just not change filters 3 times during the 15k interval. Oil may be recommended for a 10k-15k change, but that don't mean the filter is not gonna "clog up" during that time. Then again, I could be wrong.
'05 Lunar Mist SE: 2AZ-FE, E351 and all their combined glory!
Image
User avatar
gnegroni
SolaraGuy Street Racer
SolaraGuy Street Racer
 
Posts: 1429
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:39 am
Location: Land of the Apes

Postby HarryAdventurer » Fri Jun 22, 2007 8:03 pm

I had a '76 VW Rabbit. I experimented with all types of oil and additives. Mobil 1, T-Fal (teflon additive), and store brand, (API certified of course). I had that car for about 120K with no problems. Mobil 1 tended to burn, (leak), faster than others. T-Fal seemed to have no effect.

For my '86 Celica, I used the cheapest oil that met the mfg requirements and the cheapest filter recommended for the car. A minor crash at 136K, ended that car. (Insurance wouldn't pay repair, gave me $3,500 - I regret not keeping the car.) Never any oil related problems, and that car had a 10,000 mi oil change cycle.

My '98 Ford Escort ZX2, received the same care, except for a 5,000 mi change cycle. I still have it and at 167K it still runs fine.

I am highly dubious about any claims for superior performance with synthetics and the like. While they may test better in a lab, I doubt they provide any meaningful advantage over the life of a typical car.
2007 Cosmic Blue Solara, 4cyl Auto
HarryAdventurer
Just Licensed SolaraGuy
 
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Jun 09, 2007 5:50 pm

Postby theprodigy79 » Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:07 pm

This is a very old thread man, let's try not to revive these. I'm not trying to be an @ss, just giving you a head's up before others trounce ya (there are a few people on this site who you'll never hear the end of it from)...

Take care,

-James
'04 Solara SE Sport V6, all TRD + CP-e, gone but not forgotten... '09 G37S Sedan and '88 Supra Turbo project
Image
User avatar
theprodigy79
SolaraGuy Semi-Pro Racer
SolaraGuy Semi-Pro Racer
 
Posts: 3460
Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 8:12 am
Location: Northern Virginia (703)

Postby Patrik » Sat Jun 23, 2007 12:16 am

i use Amsoil full synthetic... you can go up too 48 000 km or 1 year... just need to change your oil filter in the middle of the laps time
1999 SE V6 5 speed SOLD
current car: 1991 nissan cedric gran tourismo SV vipd'out

[img]http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k93/midias12/sig-1.jpg[/img]
User avatar
Patrik
SolaraGuy Driver
SolaraGuy Driver
 
Posts: 316
Joined: Thu Jun 15, 2006 11:55 am
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Postby gnegroni » Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:52 pm

When I blew a head gasket on my 1994 Ford Taurus due to a busted hose I took the car down to a trustworthy mechanic to have it fixed.

As a precautionary method, the mechanic took the Vulcan's iron heads for a small resurfacing, replaced the gasket (doh!) and inspected the whole engine for any damage. He was amazed at the engine shape and cleanliness, as well as cylinder wear, much like crazygeeks mechanics' reaction. I told him I had been using Mobil 1 Synthetic since I took (actually bought) the car from my dad, which was about 4 years worth of Synthetic massaging, and he told me it was worth it after seeing the results.

Do note, that the car consumed Mobil 1, but even though I ran the car hard, I never had to add more than 1/2-1 quart between oil changes. Mechanic told me the piston design on the Vulcan engine tended to burn off oil, which explained why the engine was losing oil without any leaks.

My $0.02, use synthetic. I live in 100°F weather most of the year and like the extra insurance it gives me. As you may imagine, my hardworking 2AZ Solara has it running through its veins...I change it every 5k.
'05 Lunar Mist SE: 2AZ-FE, E351 and all their combined glory!
Image
User avatar
gnegroni
SolaraGuy Street Racer
SolaraGuy Street Racer
 
Posts: 1429
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:39 am
Location: Land of the Apes
Previous

Return to Stock Gen 2 and 2.5

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests