Boosted but slower than stock!

[Mole]

137 ????

[Dawgz]

Step1. Remove and inspect spark plugs to determine if you were running rich (sooty black) or lean (white) and that your electrodes weren't fried. Also, run finger inside exhaust tip and see if its sooty black meaning rich. Boosting a motor without sufficiently increasing the gas causes lean mixture which is most dangerous for your motor and more likely than running rich. Cease racing people till you've completed all steps. Running lean ith high RPM causes detonation and will hole a piston.

Step2. Do compression test on each cylinder.

Step3. Install next temperature range colder plugs and gap them wee bit smaller than factory. Running on boost, the spark has more difficult time crossing gap because of boosted air pressure blows out as if birthday candle.

Step4. Verify proper ignition timing.

Step5. Check vacuum hoses & intake manifold gasket for leaks while engine is running and giving it gas by yanking on throttle linkage in engine compartment.

Step6. Install SAFC and go for dyno tune. Just going for a dyno tune without completing at minimal the previous steps is a waste of your $.

EGR blockage is bogus. I yanked and totally blocked off my EGR system and car runs no different (just better now not routing heated gases back into engine because less heat).

The spark plugs are brand new NGK Iridium IX spark plugs i think, and the spark plug wires are Magnecore 8.5mm.

So its, literally all new.

[ProRally Codriver]

The spark plugs are brand new NGK Iridium IX spark plugs i think, and the spark plug wires are Magnecore 8.5mm.

So its, literally all new.

New doesn't mean squat if they aren't the proper heat range and gap for the reasons mentioned above. Yank them to get an idea regarding your current fuel mixture. If you are rich they are all sooty and perform like crap even if the correct. While they are out do a compression test. Have you listened to anybody who replied to your post? Or blow it up so I can say told you so.

[Dawgz]

The spark plugs are brand new NGK Iridium IX spark plugs i think, and the spark plug wires are Magnecore 8.5mm.

So its, literally all new.

New doesn't mean squat if they aren't the proper heat range and gap for the reasons mentioned above. Yank them to get an idea regarding your current fuel mixture. If you are rich they are all sooty and perform like crap even if the correct. While they are out do a compression test. Have you listened to anybody who replied to your post? Or blow it up so I can say told you so.

ok, so i gotta test one spark plug?

[CamryOnBronze]

i think you would do a compression test on every cylinder...

[TMMK Toy]

i think you would do a compression test on every cylinder...

Ya but the forward facing bank is far easier to access and at least you ahve a 50/50 chance of knowing if the engine is in good service condition or not

[ProRally Codriver]

One would give an idea but is not sure-fire that the ones you did not pull would be the same. What if one injector is not functioning? Checking them all would discover that. Who installed and were they gapped? Gap needs to be smaller on boosted cars although 3 lbs sounds like nothing (I run 15lbs on low boost and 20 on high boost).

[CamryOnBronze]

compression testing:

http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairq ... 056_1.html

[Dawgz]

Ordered the SAFC II, will be going to get the car dyno tuned next week hopefully.


Ill keep ya'll posted, hopefully i come back with positive results!

[Dawgz]

i did the Knock sensor wire mod, can anyone tell me if it was done like its suppose to? also, the people that made this modification in the first place didnt have the jim's fuel mod correct? so they probably were blowing the knock sensor in the front? I have jim's Fuel mod so i think my BACK sensor is the one that needs to be reading off of the first one. This mod is to connect the wire that goes to pin 27 to wire 28. Or should it have been the other way around? where pin 28 is cut and the wire end that goes to the ECU/ECM should be parallel connected off of pin 27?


here are the pics. I ran the car, it feels somewhat faster, but i really cant say that its fixed basing it from me just feeling its fast, cause before it felt fast when it was really slow. So should i do the opposite of what i did...connect pin 28 to pin 27 so the ecu is reading knock sensor 1 and 2 off of pin 27? cause right now its reading both knock sensors off of pin 28.

Hopefully pin 27 and pin 28 are even the damn knock sensors!

[Dawgz]

the car feels somewhat faster, but i cant really tell for sure.


im debating if i should leave it like this before i go dyno or wire the knock sensors back to factory spec @ the ECU/ECM before i go and dyno/tune it.

[CamryOnBronze]

man, youre a mess jk

[Paladin06Greg]

One piece of advice. Don't half-ass it. Get the job done right the first time and there are no short cuts. You get what you pay for so spend your money wisely. I spent far to much money going in the wrong direction...

[Dawgz]

One piece of advice. Don't half-donkey it. Get the job done right the first time and there are no short cuts. You get what you pay for so spend your money wisely. I spent far to much money going in the wrong direction...

What did i half ass? the splicing job? i dont get what ur reffering to, im buying all the parts everyone is suggesting, im not going the "cheap" way out on anything. All my mods were installed so i wouldnt have major problem, like jim's fuel mod, greddy exhaust, etc etc. Please tell me what you are reffering to.

[CamryOnBronze]

he probably is thinking that you should have had all the parts together before you slapped the charger on not knowing what you were doing...