WTB: H&R Spacers

[siennasc98]

hmm from siennas pics, seems to have the hubcentric lip... can you confirm that?

Danny, do you have any more sets of these, and if so how much + shipping to 95758?

They are the DRS type - 15mm, 60.1 center bore and yes, they have the hubcentric lip.

Here is the package (a pair of spacers and qty=10 - ~60 mm long wheel studs)

[CASTRO]

yee haw, PM'd allerady and waiting for the paypal so i can send in the money. sienna, how did you get your stock studs off? I know that with brute force and a hammer method, but I was afraid it might tweak the bearings. Any suggestions tips? Shops charge insane amounts since they said it might have to be removed to get it pressed out.

[CASTRO]

danny, youve got PM. just waiting on your response then ill send out the money right away. thanks -John

[GReddySetGO]

^PMed back

[CASTRO]

danny payment through paypal sent.

[siennasc98]

yee haw, PM'd allerady and waiting for the paypal so i can send in the money. sienna, how did you get your stock studs off? I know that with brute force and a hammer method, but I was afraid it might tweak the bearings. Any suggestions tips? Shops charge insane amounts since they said it might have to be removed to get it pressed out.

Yes, I have to remove the rear hub assembly, which is being held by 4 nuts. After I removed the wheel/ brake drum, these 4 nuts are now accessible through the big holes on the hub. I used a 14mm socket with extension to remove them. Unplug the ABS/wheel speed sensor connector, tap the hub with a rubber mallet or hammer to loosen it and pull out the hub assembly. The brake plate could come out too, so watch out.

Removing the OEM studs is easy, just put the hub on a vise, clamped it and (I used an old lug nut to have a wider area to hit) starts hammering. Just a couple of strikes and they are out.

Installing the new and longer wheel studs is a different story. I can't locate any nearby shop to press them to the hub.

So I used the hammer method but not brute force, plus the use old lug nuts for tightening to keep the studs straight. With the hub assembly on the vise, insert the new stud, tighten the old lug nut all the way to the other side of the hub, a couple of hammer strikes followed by ¼ - ½ turn on the old lug nut. Repeat this process until the studs counter head is evenly seated on the hub.

[CASTRO]

ooo very good info on how you did it. hopefully my hub assembly is as easy to take out as yours is. As soon as I get them, ill see what i can do and maybe contact you if i have any questions or concerns. Thanks again.

[siennasc98]

ooo very good info on how you did it. hopefully my hub assembly is as easy to take out as yours is. As soon as I get them, ill see what i can do and maybe contact you if i have any questions or concerns. Thanks again.

You're welcome.
Will install the front spacers tomorrow. I hope that I can now use my set of 18x7.5 Motegi MR-7 Gun metal with 235/50 ZR18 Michelin Pilot Sport tires.

Here is picture of the rear tire and fender clearance now which I think it's just right.

[siennasc98]

The spacers for the front were installed yesterday.
Raise the vehicle and use a jack stand. Remove the wheel/tire, brake caliper ( and secure/support it), caliper bracket (59 ft-lbs), pads and the rotor.

I did not remove the hubs. No way I can turn the drive shaft/axle (30mm) nut, which is factory torque at 217 ft-lbs. With this amount of torque on the nut, a couple of hammer strikes on the studs is probably safe and not disturb the bearing. As an insurance, I inserted a screwdriver in the back, between the hub and the body of the steering knuckle before I hit the stud with a hammer.



After the OEM studs are hammered out, remove them from the hub by rotating the hub (tranny is set to Neutral - parking brake is engaged and rear tires are blocked) until it reaches a semi-circle cutout in the dust plate. After you remove the OEM studs, insert a new one in its place.



If you have old lug nuts, use them to tighten the new studs and mimic a pressing process. Use a deep socket and torque wrench set at 79 ft-lbs (lug nut torque specs on my Sienna) as a precaution not to force or create an over tightening scenario that can shear the new studs. A clicker type (1/2"drive) torque wrench is perfect for this task; I bought a cheap one from Harbor Freight for $20. Put the tranny in PARK; engage the floor jack rod against the hub to prevent it from moving. Start tightening the lug nuts. If you feel it getting hard to turn or the clicker/set torque is reached, go to the next nut and come back to that lug nut later.



After you had tighten them all and the stud counter head is evenly seated to the hub, test fit the spacer.



Reinstall rotor, caliper bracket, caliper and pads (I decided to change pads and new shim kit) and wheel/tire. I test fitted the Motegi wheel and it's perfect, enough clearance between the tire and strut. I can't use then yet, the hub rings did not arrive in time.

[---CAMRAZY---]

Very nice write up....

[CASTRO]

cool stuff, if you hammered the studs out, then it should work for mine too. Jst waiting on mine since danny ran out. thanks man.

[siennasc98]

Got the hub rings for my Motegi 18x7.5 +45mm offset- MR-7 Gun Metal wheels. With the 15mm spacers, wheel/tire fits perfectly.

[hari-bhari]

Does this process have to be done for everyone installing spacers? I wanted to get 5mm spacers for my wheels, but I wasn't anticipating all this trouble

[siennasc98]

Does this process have to be done for everyone installing spacers? I wanted to get 5mm spacers for my wheels, but I wasn't anticipating all this trouble

Here is a good reference from tirerack.com on the minimum no. of turns of the nut for a given bolt/stud size;
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/tec ... techid=107