Split Thread: datSRBoi reset battery to clear CEL

[DatSRBoi]

All I did was reset my battery and the knock code cel never came on again.

[CASTRO]

^
hey dats, becareful because I had the exact same thing happen to me. Some signs of a failing knock sensor was the loss of power that you gained when the s/c was first installed. Mine would whine and roar but never really felt as lively as it did before. There is a HUGE difference in performance. Might wanna see if yourt knock sensors are picking up false knock and retarding timing a bit.

[DatSRBoi]

^
hey dats, becareful because I had the exact same thing happen to me. Some signs of a failing knock sensor was the loss of power that you gained when the s/c was first installed. Mine would whine and roar but never really felt as lively as it did before. There is a HUGE difference in performance. Might wanna see if yourt knock sensors are picking up false knock and retarding timing a bit.

Dude mang your scaring me
Well I letted my friend drive the car that day.. And he sorta let the Idle drop too low a few times because he didnt give it enough gas when he was releasing the clutch. Im talking about to the point the car almost choke and died out. Maybe 1 or 200 rpm a few good times.. And the CEL came on right when we got on the highway and on a turn where he was shifting too hard and dropping the clutch too fast causing the car to jolt..maybe that knocked the knock sensor to think the car wasnt stable... I had it resetted and its like 90 miles since it last happened and no CEL light.. Gosh I hope its not really mess up.

Think I should reset my car again to make sure? I have a dyno this weekend and need my baby in top condition.

[CASTRO]

hmm, well what I would do is reset and see if it makes a difference. Right after every CEL I get I use my scangauge ODBII thing to clear it in realtime as I drive. After every clear, the motor pulls like a beast but I can tell it slowly adjusts itself to become mild. Right before my sensors blew, It became more apparant that right after a clear, it was strong and after a couple of mins of normal driving, became very mild and smooth to end up at a CEL. Not trying to scare you, but just sharing experience.

I came to my comclusions that the knock sensors are to blame after talking to several people on Toyota Nation including Tony the Tiger. He said that after replacing/relocating the sensor, his timing was greatly advanced to the point that a surge of power killed his auto tranny. Even though he killed a tranny, he was happy of the power gain. An old post there about the 3VZ (older 1MZ cousin V6) had sensor problems as well where even an N/A would start to retard timing after 3-4 hard runs. They all explained that it felt as if the engine sounded meaner, but didnt pull to back up the roar.

Gabe (TRD4Life) had a post on TN saying that after relocating his sensors, the car was running faster with the 5.5psi pully than it did with stock location sensors using the 7psi pully.

Ohhh little note I forgot to add. TN guys commented that the 1MZ knock sensors make the motor extremely sensitive to any loud noises which cause low or inconsistant dyno numbers. IT is the same case with the Nissan Sentra Spec-V. They would dyno the Sentra 5 times and get 5 different readings. After wrapping the knock sensor with a towel away from noises, the engine would then be one of the most consistant on the dyno.

[Fletch]

I can 2nd that. On my initial run after I installed the 5.5psi pulley, the increase in power from a seat of your pants perspective was huge. After driving around a few minutes, I got a CEL (blowing the bank 2 / front bank) knock sensor. I ended up rewiring the rear bank knock sensor to both ECU inputs. I ran strong and no CEL's until the car met it's death, but never as strong as the initial run after the smaller pulley was installed.

[Yanks0114]

Dat - I split your thread. I wanted to keep all my posts in the knock sensor thread on topic

[DatSRBoi]

Dat - I split your thread. I wanted to keep all my posts in the knock sensor thread on topic

Dude Im sorry. Didnt know it was that off. It was still about knock sensors and making sure it was really the knocks going bad or just people thikning its bad when it really isnt. My bad. I was just sharing my side point where I reseted it and it wasnt really knock issue but just a false reading from what Im seeing. Not to mention that CEL never came back on and that yours might be the same too.

[Yanks0114]

Not a problem - I figured it would be best to address these as two separate issues (mine is definately blown, yours maybe at the end of its life)

[CASTRO]

It might be a little off topic, but my first Knock sensor CEL came on after heavy driving. Reset and about an oil change later came back on again. Yet another reset, it came on half that time (about 1500 miles). Then it kept on comming back in half the time until it now goes on sometimes in less than 5min after reset.