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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - NEED HELP! HID BULB MIGHT BE BROKEN
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 2 and 2.5 upgrades.

NEED HELP! HID BULB MIGHT BE BROKEN

NEED HELP! HID BULB MIGHT BE BROKEN

Postby someazn » Mon Dec 19, 2005 10:27 pm

I think I kinda f'ed up on the install for the driver side. The lead rod on the HID bulb kinda cracked when it bumped into the housing. However, the bulb did not touch the housing I don't know if I can still use it and if I can, how long would it last? From my knowledge, the lead rod on the bulb is used to absorb the ultraviolet rays from the xenon. So, it should be fine? Should I go ahead and use it if it's fine or should I order a replacement? Any suggestions? Thanks.

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Postby SpeedSTARs » Mon Dec 19, 2005 10:44 pm

:roll: IMHO, I'd go ahead and order a new bulb. I had this happen to me a while back. It was not pretty. The HID bulb ended up exploding inside the foglamp bezel (McCulloch 9006 5k HID conversion kit). There were glass shards inside the headlamp rattling around. :-?

:roll: Since the bulb is cracked, it won't be long until it explodes due to the constant moisture (just from the usual morning mist) it comes in contact with. It's the constant cold to hot you shouldbe worried about. :angel:
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Postby someazn » Mon Dec 19, 2005 10:53 pm

The bulb is not cracked or anything, its just the rod. The bulb is fine.
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Postby krawzyazn » Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:06 pm

if the rod is crack it will still last a while

I can get you replacement bulbs let me know asap I am putting a order in tonight
Last edited by krawzyazn on Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby SpeedSTARs » Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:07 pm

someazn wrote:The bulb is not cracked or anything, its just the rod. The bulb is fine.


:oops: :lol: Well in that case, the rod is also used to absorb shock to the bulb. HID bulbs do not handle shock to well.

Unless you are really good with soldering iron, just solder the rod with lead solder. :wink:
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Postby someazn » Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:26 pm

Hey krawzyazn, based on your response, you're saying I do not need a immediate replacement and it should run fine without any problem such as the bulb bursting?

Speedstar, the rod is not completely cracked. I see two rods. A thick outer layer, and a thin inner layer. The outer layer is cracked, but the entire rod itself is still intact. The inner layer is keeping the lead rod from snapping in two. Should I still solder up the crack? I build robots for a living so I'm fairly good at soldering.

Thanks guys for the help.
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Postby someazn » Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:28 pm

o btw, is it ok to touch the rod with my bare hands? I kinda have to move the rod back into position before I solder.
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Postby krawzyazn » Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:31 pm

do not solder anything just leave it thats is insulation and should be fine even if it is cracked. if you want a set let me know soon I will make my order by 11pm
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Postby SpeedSTARs » Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:36 pm

someazn wrote:Hey krawzyazn, based on your response, you're saying I do not need a immediate replacement and it should run fine without any problem such as the bulb bursting?

Speedstar, the rod is not completely cracked. I see two rods. A thick outer layer, and a thin inner layer. The outer layer is cracked, but the entire rod itself is still intact. The inner layer is keeping the lead rod from snapping in two. Should I still solder up the crack? I build robots for a living so I'm fairly good at soldering.

Thanks guys for the help.


Can you take a picture of the affected area (crack)?

The only thing that worries me is the design. The question is why is there two rods? Is it for cooling or some sort of filtering?

I'm thinking that there was a reason for the two separate rods. What worries me is that when you solder the outer rod, the precaution would be to avoid bonding of the inner lead rod. :angel:

I'd just take krawzyazn advice. :angel:
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Postby someazn » Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:52 pm

I'll just leave it as is and see how it works out. I'll try to get a picture up tomororw. Again, thanks for the help. Much appreciated. :) Krawzyazn, I'll definetely let you know if I need a replacement in the near future. Thanks.
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Postby someazn » Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:58 pm

Actually, here's a picture of the bulb close up. See where it says "crooked"; I think I'll have to re-adjust that with my bare hands so it becomes straight again. And also notice where the crack is, you can see a inner rod. I know its not clear, but the lead rod is still pretty sturdy. Barely bulged when I pushed it.

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Postby krawzyazn » Tue Dec 20, 2005 12:03 am

someazn wrote:I'll just leave it as is and see how it works out. I'll try to get a picture up tomororw. Again, thanks for the help. Much appreciated. :) Krawzyazn, I'll definetely let you know if I need a replacement in the near future. Thanks.
no problem thanks for letting me know I need to submit my order now
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Postby MikeATL » Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:22 am

Im thinking you just broke the insulator, not big deal. As long as the bulb is ok and you dont get your finger oils on it, it should be fine.

Not to highjack your thread, but if you do go ahead and install let me know what your light output is like. Im not too happy with mine, and after doing a little research on hidplanet, i think our bulbs need to be inserted a little deeper in to the housing to match the focus of halagens...
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Postby bunthy » Tue Dec 20, 2005 8:27 am

What you are referring to is the 'return wire':

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From the website: faqlight.carpassion.info:

The importance of spacing for return wire on D2 bulb
If the return wire (on the bulb) electrically hits headlight reflector, you can risk your ballast. The igniting mechanism in ballasts are relatively frigile and start voltage can decrease from the rated 23kV. That means that it will not be aurn wire and the metal. (Notice that even plastic reflectors are considered an electrical conductor. They are chromed.) You can get away with a close distance if area is very small. But it might give unpredictable results. Its the same with lighting froime.

How do I fix a broken return wire insulator?

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HID bulb return wire is covered with a thin ceramic tube and is therefor brittle. HID bulbs are frigile, they cannot be handled as much as halogen bulbs. The most common reason for broken insulator is after using HID bulbs in a halogen housing. It may sound awkward, what is really the difference you may wonder. Fact is that halogen headlights have a much smaller diameter hole compared to an OEM headlight. An OEM headlight typically has an opening of about 25mm (1 inch). So if you buy HID equipment and insulator is broken about 30% of way from the base, well then seller has not been aware that bulb must be HANDLED WITH CARE when inserting/removing.

Life of bulb will be reduced if insulator broken. The intention of the insulator is to stop high voltage arcs during startup directly from inner wire to return wire. Such archs will eventually kill bulb. Rapairing it is probably not worth the effort. There is not really any material that will stop high voltage from arcing besides ceramic. If you are able to place special rinsed clay onto wire, then burn it a 1000C oven, it be great for wire but not HID bulb. Return wire could be cut, a new insulator could be attached (not available on the marked), then return wire could be welded back together. This would require a small scale welder - not very common tool to have.
Conclusion: Broken return wire equals defective bulb


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Sorry chief but it seems that you need a new bulb or else you'll risk the ballasts and any other high voltage damage that can occur from this.

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Postby MikeATL » Tue Dec 20, 2005 11:40 am

^^Good Answer^^

What he said...
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