Is there a knock sensor solution?

[SpeedSTARs]

I have a 2001 SE V6. I also have a S/C with a 7psi pulley. I baby my car. That is to say that it gets the best of everything. 93oct gas, Redline synthetic oil, regular maint, and frequent hand washes. After the knock sensor blew, I noticed a substantial loss of power. I've read on the website that when your sensor is blown, the computer automatically retards your timing. Hence, the power loss.
Some of you guys are planning on relocating your knock sensor. Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of even having one? Why not relocate it to your trunk? I'm sure the engineers at Toyota had a reason to put the sensors where they are.

In some case the sensors were picking up the sounds the SuperCharger was making which in turn set off the sensor. That is why some members have relocated the KS. The knock sensor is designed to pick up a certain frequency in the engine that represented pinging. Which in turn reduced power out and timing (back off on the gas/ignition). It is also a safety measure to prevent detenation and the use of lower grade gas if higher octane wasn't available in the area. Hopefully this somethings. Good Luck Bro

[CASTRO]

My first P0130 code showed its ugly face while driving on the freeway @ 70mph on cruise control. I use Synthetic everything from mobile1 to redline. S/C was installed @ 145,000 miles and currently at 150,000 miles. Spark plugs were changed to NGK iridium and car is babied on a daily bases except for the occational rice-whooping which lasts only a couplf of seconds. I noticed that the first CEL happened during a tank of ARCO 91 octane (I had no choice). I usually only put in Chevron or Shell and nothing less with no problems. I might try out the GM racing knock sensor as well. I just have to ask gabe (trd4life) since on his cardomain he lists using the ATS Racing Knock Sensor. I do have a realtime ODB2 code scanner/monitor so I can clear it on the fly while driving. Prior codes that showed up was the lean code P0171.

[thakidd]

when i talked to jim about the ats ks he said that they might not fit.i just blew my knock sensor last week 4psi jims fuel mod and 93oct i was going bout 15mph when it blew this is the second time it blew and my way of dealing with it this time is t either relocate my sensors or im trading in my pos camry for sumthing better.....

[wiz2]

1) For those of you that blew your sensors how did you drive once you got blown? It took all the boost out by retarding the timing. It drove like stock.

2) Did you reset your battery? Reset it a dozen times. Cleared code with the help of the dealer at least a dozen after that. It always came back after 10 minutes or so.

3) Octance of gas? 93 octane since the first tank.

4) Auto or Manual-Manual

5) Have you done regular maintance prior to getting blown? Mobil 1 since the 3rd oil change prior to getting s/c'd. Changed every 3-4k miles. I beleive mine might have been bad gas as well. It blew the day after returning form NOPI 2004. Ultra cheap no name gas

[Grazi07]

1) For those of you that blew your sensors how did you drive once you got blown? Felt like I was driving a 4 cyl instead of a 6. Ran a little shakey at first, but leveled off.

2) Did you reset your battery? It won't make a difference, once it's blown it's blown...

3) Octance of gas? 93

4) Auto or Manual-Auto

5) Have you done regular maintance prior to getting blown? Regular fluid changes.

[CASTRO]

when i talked to jim about the ats ks he said that they might not fit.i just blew my knock sensor last week 4psi jims fuel mod and 93oct i was going bout 15mph when it blew this is the second time it blew and my way of dealing with it this time is t either relocate my sensors or im trading in my pos camry for sumthing better.....

hmmm just finished having a little chat with trd4life on AIM and he said that the redknight (joeB now trd4life)'s solara has them in for both front and rear. I blew our my front sensor but i suspect that the rear is/was getting false signals. When i get some money together, ill be ordering one for a test trial and another for the rear if it is a success.

[shidosha01]

The ATS knock sensors do work for our car.

I've had them on my car for two years now and have never blown them. You'll have to be extra careful if you decide to use these GM knock sensors on our cars. They are not a direct fit and envolves rethreading the block to put them in place. Over the past year JoeB noticed that although these GM knock sensors are stronger they are a lot more sensitive to picking up knock signals.

[QuickSEV6]

The ATS knock sensors do work for our car.

I've had them on my car for two years now and have never blown them. You'll have to be extra careful if you decide to use these GM knock sensors on our cars. They are not a direct fit and envolves rethreading the block to put them in place. Over the past year JoeB noticed that although these GM knock sensors are stronger they are a lot more sensitive to picking up knock signals.

Thats good news that they fit, but I'm scared about the tapping a new hole in my engine. That would mean you can never go back to original specs.

They are more sensitive? What does that mean? I don't know what a knock sensor does when it senses a knock. I know it retards timing when blown, does it do the same when it senses knock? Do I have to continually reset the battery?
Thanks

[JMSinMaryland]

I myself am running 4psi with 93 octane all the time with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and maintenance on schedule EVERY __ miles. Mine has gone at 2x but as I said I had it replaced under warranty. Maybe it should be a point of concern, maybe a TSB needs to be made? How do we pursue this?? Jon.

[CASTRO]

anyone have a blown knock sensor they wanna let me experiment with? I will be willing to pay for shipping if thats tha case. I want to ask a FAB shop if they can make a custom threaded adapter for the GM knock sensors. I believe that the GM is too big and the block needs to be rethreaded for them to fit. If I can get a sample thread of both stock and GM, maybe I can get something worked out. As the the GM sensor being more sensitive to picking up false knock (info found out by JoeB), they can be simply wrapped in some type of dynamat of sound deadning material. They may be more sensitive than stock, but at least they are less likely to blow. I' rather have my timing retarded than having to go back in there just to change an expensive sensor.

Anyone have a bad stock sensor?

[trd4life]

ATS Sells the adapter for our engine! Check out their website.

[StockSolara]

ATS Sells the adapter for our engine! Check out their website.

So those adapters for the 3S-GTE will fit the 1MZ? I can't find anything else unless its hidden somewhere.

[CASTRO]

hmmm, i checked with rizal and greg who said that they had arrita rethread the blocks for the GM sensor. Well, all three had it done. Rizal said that the adapter wouldnt fit. Now im just confused. It would be great if it was a perfect match as I want to get these and change them once and for all.

[shidosha01]

hmmm, i checked with rizal and greg who said that they had arrita rethread the blocks for the GM sensor. Well, all three had it done. Rizal said that the adapter wouldnt fit. Now im just confused. It would be great if it was a perfect match as I want to get these and change them once and for all.

The adapter does fit. What doesn't fit is a direct screw on of the GM knock sensor. Arrieta Motorsport had to rethread the block so the GM knock sensor and adapter tucks in nicely. PLEASE BE EXTRA CAREFUL WHEN RETHREADING THE BLOCK. If you have any other questions bro you can IM me on AIM.

[JavaJoe_2]

It thought rewiring the front to rear knock sensor was the solution and solved the knock sensor problem? ??