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Is there a knock sensor solution?

Is there a knock sensor solution?

Postby QuickSEV6 » Sat Dec 10, 2005 8:11 am

It seems like many of us have a knock sensor problem.
Has anybody without a supercharger blown a knock sensor?
I requested a price for a new knock sensor from a local dealer. Are you ready for this? $199.92 That is ridiculous.
I have a blown knock sensor. Before I drop down $200 for a new one, is that the going price now or is my dealer a crook?
I looked at earlier posts about knock sensors and someone posted a solution: http://www.twosrus.com/new/Lower_Frames ... sknock.htm
Has anybody tried this yet? It seems like an answer to our prayers, but like the old saying goes, if it's too good to be true, it probably is.
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Knock Sensor

Postby JMSinMaryland » Sat Dec 10, 2005 9:02 am

Mine was replaced 2x under warranty i.e. emission 8yr/80k. Jon.
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Postby CASTRO » Sat Dec 10, 2005 12:00 pm

im in the same boat. I have a blown knock sensor, for the front bank, im guessing its #2. P0130 code. If anyone has access to pictures of the knock sensor, it'd help a lot in deciding if I should get that GM sensor or not.
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Postby thakidd » Sat Dec 10, 2005 12:26 pm

i dont think any 1 has used the sensor.im just gunna relocate my sensors
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Postby ~Spadwaller~ » Sat Dec 10, 2005 12:35 pm

jim fuel upgrade
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Postby CASTRO » Sat Dec 10, 2005 1:17 pm

^
strange that this all happened to me after i did the upgrade. yet the sensor is still blow.
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Postby SC V6 » Sat Dec 10, 2005 1:19 pm

CASTRO wrote:^
strange that this all happened to me after i did the upgrade. yet the sensor is still blow.

only way to solve it is to RUN STOCK BOOST

plus it saves your motor.. im running 4 psi and im beating some nice cars
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knock problem

Postby trd4life » Sat Dec 10, 2005 2:27 pm

relocate your knock sensors, run octane booster all the time (expensive), tune your car on a dyno, run the GM knock sensor kit, lower your compression, orl ike scv6 said, run stock boost whicj in my opinion sucks.
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Postby wiz2 » Sat Dec 10, 2005 9:06 pm

My sesnor blew after my fuel upgrade as well. The sensor should be under $150. I think mine was a little over $100 at Scott Clark Toyota in Charlotte,NC. CHanged it myself as well as the PCV valve and all hoses associated. Havent had a problem since. I'm kind of glad I did it myself.

If you do it yourself, REMEMBER to drain the ALL of the coolant.

It took about 6 hours total spread out over a few days ,because thre are two different brands of sensors. And you dont know which one you need until you take out the old one :roll: .
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Postby siennasc98 » Sat Dec 10, 2005 9:24 pm

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Postby CASTRO » Sun Dec 11, 2005 1:25 am

DAMN! very good info guys thanks!

trd4life- Does the GM sensor really work? I took a look in my haynes manual and from the looks of the picture, using that adapter, might not fit. I jsut want to be really sure because even though its not a lot of money, I'd be stuck with a disassembled s/c. Thanks for the help if you can get back to this. Aslo, About the GM sensor, can the adapter be used and still have enough clearance for the supercharger?

siennasc98-hey, thanks for the picture. I do all the work on my car since I dont trust anyone else to and this is 10x better than the crappy haynes snapshot.
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Postby CASTRO » Sun Dec 11, 2005 1:31 am

SC V6 wrote:only way to solve it is to RUN STOCK BOOST

plus it saves your motor.. im running 4 psi and im beating some nice cars


I am running stock boost and it blew about a week after I did the fuel upgrade. Strange, seems some engines are just prone to weak sensors. bunthy had the same problem

trd4life-I looked on your cardomain that you are running the ATS GM sensors in your camry. Is the clearance okay? I was just worried that 2 may not fit in since the coolant hose is in the way, and it has only been tested for fitment in MR2 motors (3sgte). Let us know on the results because since its such a hassle getting in there, might as well replace both to the GM sensors if works. Might also solve the false knock+retard on the rear bank problem.
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Postby ~Spadwaller~ » Sun Dec 11, 2005 2:43 am

1) For those of you that blew your sensors how did you drive once you got blown?

2) Did you reset your battery?

3) Octance of gas?

4) Auto or Manual

5) Have you done regular maintance prior to getting blown?
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Postby SpeedSTARs » Sun Dec 11, 2005 3:03 am

~Spadwaller~ wrote:1) For those of you that blew your sensors how did you drive once you got blown?

2) Did you reset your battery?

3) Octance of gas?

4) Auto or Manual

5) Have you done regular maintance prior to getting blown?


1. The car barely drove past 40mph with heavy hesitation.
2. This trick of resetting the ECU only works for a very short time. It (CEL) kicks back on once you start rolling.
3. The highest octane you can find. You'll need to get a Apexi SAFC2 controller to adjust your fuel ratios and dyno'd by a represent able shop. Also the Fuel upgrade is still not enough. Look into getting the 190 Walbro pump and injectors for added reassurance.
4. Auto in my case.
5. Religiously as far a tune ups.

And yes the Knock Snesor is one expensive :bad-words: POS. I blew both of them when I filled up at a BP station. :-? 93 octane my :bad-words: ... Carz you hate and you love em. :drinking:
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Postby QuickSEV6 » Sun Dec 11, 2005 3:11 am

I have a 2001 SE V6. I also have a S/C with a 7psi pulley. I baby my car. That is to say that it gets the best of everything. 93oct gas, Redline synthetic oil, regular maint, and frequent hand washes. After the knock sensor blew, I noticed a substantial loss of power. I've read on the website that when your sensor is blown, the computer automatically retards your timing. Hence, the power loss.
Some of you guys are planning on relocating your knock sensor. Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of even having one? Why not relocate it to your trunk? I'm sure the engineers at Toyota had a reason to put the sensors where they are. I would strongly consider the GM knock sensors if I knew that they fit. Has anybody tried them yet? Or will I have to be the first?
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