URD closed loop tuning box

[Vampire]

What did you feel? You didn't mention that before but that sounds a little funny to me too.

Good news is there is actually a dyno on this island now. What make? I have no idea but I'll still get it done unless it's one of those remove one of the front wheel types.

My best guess from seeing similar car's dyno numbers is probably low 260s?? At least I hope so, but the driving is way more emjoyable since the last few mods.

[gman]

Well this thrread is just you and me but hopefully some folks can get something from it on the afr sensors and the o2 sensors and our positive opinion of it. I love hearing that you are having WAY more fun now with the last mod. That makes me feel good. Becasue my car feels the same way now.

I spoke with Brian at URD and he said put all the vac settings with the new box to 10 value (neutral) and nothing greater- to just tune the boost side and he says that will cure it- here is hoping. The afr box is really designed for that spot between the initial boost in closed to just before it goes into open loop where one could see anywhere from 2 up to 4 lbs once open loop engages. I was trying to tune the whole vac map on the afr box as well as retuning the whole vac map on the maf ftc-1 unit as well. From what I gather I only need to retune the boost side of the map after tuning the afr box low boost map. Not the whole ftc-1 map. I am still a little grey as where the ecu generates the trims from but I hope to ask Brian that agian later this week when he has some more time for me on the phone.

Can't wait to hear your numbers and I should have mine soon too early next week. I want 240whp with my automatic. I have as high as 252whp on an automatic but that may have been a 7lb pulley. Anyway.

Yack here later on~

G

[CASTRO]

wow looks like you guys are getting some great results and making good progress with these urd boxes. Im fairly new to tuning and have only had my s/c for 2 months. I regularly go out on the track for 4-5hrs of straight action and really wanted to get this to prevent excessive overheating and the possibility of damaging the motor from running lean. Keep up the good work and when time comes (and funds permit) I should be able to joint in on your conversations using my own tuning box.

[Vampire]

Did URD give you an instruction set with the AFR box? Just wondering because Gadget was a little upset that my ESC1 didn't come with one. No biggie cause it's pretty easy to install.

Just reread your post and yup, all you tune is boost on up to open loop. Actually I never even bothered hooking up the OBDII datalogger. Just watched when the A/F started to drop and tuned to 12.0-12.5 until WOT then it's 11.5-12.0. It was much simpler for me that way and you really don't need to know when open loop happens cause the wideband will tell you.

Good job of keeping an eye on it though, I'm positive there's no harm. You and me seem to learn a little more every day about the FTC. Funny, Marc at Split Second probably hates to see my emails cause I always bitch to him how easier the tuning could be if they would just package the data acquisition board from the beginning. That allows the LM-1 to interface to the FTC. When you log data you can step through the curves and it will tell you MAP, RPM and A/F. Way easier to see what cells need adjusting and I was told it's only a $50 add-on. Unfortunately, it must be done when the unit is made and can't be retrofitted

[Vampire]

If you go to the track that often you might want to seriously consider the throttle body modification to your auto tranny. It will ensure less slippage and hence more positive shifting (less heat and wear on the clutches). Just looking out for you. Hate to see the auto go bad due to all that track time.

[StockSolara]

Man this sounds awesome. . . So when I start tuning. . . Do you guys suggest for me to just purchase the closed loop box, SS-FTC, and WBO2? Will it better to get the scanner too so I can tune the closed loop to get the base map?

[gman]

Man this sounds awesome. . . So when I start tuning. . . Do you guys suggest for me to just purchase the closed loop box, SS-FTC, and WBO2? Will it better to get the scanner too so I can tune the closed loop to get the base map?

These things are only for when you are boosted as I presume you know.
I recommend the SAFCII over the Split Second FTC-1 - it is just easier to tune. Around 275$
The OBD II scanner is about 125$
The closed loop box is 215$ (this is if you have Air Fuel Sensors in your exhaust manifold) If you have o2s than you will use the ESC1 like Paul has and I am not sure of the price of that set up.
The WBO2 is like 380$. This tool is really great but is an extra. Tuning will take longer without it.
If you are going to go to 5.5 or 6 psi right away I would recommend getting all of it. As just tonight I was using the WBO2, my OBD II scan tool on my laptop to tune both boxes. It is a lot of money on top of what the s/c parts and labor costs and it alot of tuning hours to get it all running nice, so be ready for it. All these things can be obtained at the URDUSA website. Not sure on the scan tool though. It is a big step becasue none of our platform is plug and play. Our cars weren't meant to be boosted.

Just take it slow and do your homework. I have been at it over a year on and off.

[StockSolara]

Man this sounds awesome. . . So when I start tuning. . . Do you guys suggest for me to just purchase the closed loop box, SS-FTC, and WBO2? Will it better to get the scanner too so I can tune the closed loop to get the base map?

These things are only for when you are boosted as I presume you know.
I recommend the SAFCII over the Split Second FTC-1 - it is just easier to tune. Around 275$
The OBD II scanner is about 125$
The closed loop box is 215$ (this is if you have Air Fuel Sensors in your exhaust manifold) If you have o2s than you will use the ESC1 like Paul has and I am not sure of the price of that set up.
The WBO2 is like 380$. This tool is really great but is an extra. Tuning will take longer without it.
If you are going to go to 5.5 or 6 psi right away I would recommend getting all of it. As just tonight I was using the WBO2, my OBD II scan tool on my laptop to tune both boxes. It is a lot of money on top of what the s/c parts and labor costs and it alot of tuning hours to get it all running nice, so be ready for it. All these things can be obtained at the URDUSA website. Not sure on the scan tool though. It is a big step becasue none of our platform is plug and play. Our cars weren't meant to be boosted.

Just take it slow and do your homework. I have been at it over a year on and off.

Since I have CA Emissions I'm guessing my car does have the A/F Sensor, can anyone confirm that for sure? Yeah I understand what I may need. . . now its more of like hands on learning. . . I been reading about it especially Gadget's tutorial on tuning is a great tutorial. . . Just wait till I spend hours on tuning my car. . . I guess when I start tuning you guys can expect me to start asking questions. . . Is the SS-FTC really that much harder than S-AFC? I was taugh that SS-FTC is much better piggyback too

[Vampire]

gman has given you some great advice. I looked at your cardomain page and assume you don't have an SC or you now have one or will get one soon?? Anyway, I think it would be prudent to stay at the stock pulley in the beginning and consider getting these mods in this order:

1. Jim's fuel line mod and bosch filter.
2. URD 190L/hr fuel pump
3. Piggyback fuel and or timing calibrator (FTC or SAFCII)
4. OBDII datalogger
5. Wideband O2 meter
6. A/F ratio calibrator

The reason I suggest this order is you should first ensure that your fuel delivery is adequate. Even stock pulley people have run lean at WOT. Then get the Apexi or FTC. Even if you don't intend to tune your car yourself, the dyno guys can tune your car or you can become familiar with the fuel/timimg calibrator and become proficient in using it. From this point the OBDII datalogger and wideband will help you tune your ride yourself, if you take that route. If everything is done right, you can now do other things like a higher boost pulley etc and tune it yourself.
I don't recommend the A/F ratio calibrator at first because you really need a certain amount of comfort with the FTC or SAFCII.

I personally do not recommend going higher than 5.5 or 6 psi. Even 6 is probably pushing it on stock internals and stock CR.

As far as the FTC vs Apexi? My opinion is that the FTC is more versatile in that it modfies the fuel map by MAP and not MAF. MAP is more accurate becasue it gives you a truer indication of the load on the engine. The FTC also can adjust timing. The negative is that it can be difficult to tune. gman knows and that's why he recommends the SAFCII. It's really your call but expect a steeper learning curve at first on the FTC.

[StockSolara]

gman has given you some great advice. I looked at your cardomain page and assume you don't have an SC or you now have one or will get one soon?? Anyway, I think it would be prudent to stay at the stock pulley in the beginning and consider getting these mods in this order:

1. Jim's fuel line mod and bosch filter.
2. URD 190L/hr fuel pump
3. Piggyback fuel and or timing calibrator (FTC or SAFCII)
4. OBDII datalogger
5. Wideband O2 meter
6. A/F ratio calibrator

The reason I suggest this order is you should first ensure that your fuel delivery is adequate. Even stock pulley people have run lean at WOT. Then get the Apexi or FTC. Even if you don't intend to tune your car yourself, the dyno guys can tune your car or you can become familiar with the fuel/timimg calibrator and become proficient in using it. From this point the OBDII datalogger and wideband will help you tune your ride yourself, if you take that route. If everything is done right, you can now do other things like a higher boost pulley etc and tune it yourself.
I don't recommend the A/F ratio calibrator at first because you really need a certain amount of comfort with the FTC or SAFCII.

I personally do not recommend going higher than 5.5 or 6 psi. Even 6 is probably pushing it on stock internals and stock CR.

As far as the FTC vs Apexi? My opinion is that the FTC is more versatile in that it modfies the fuel map by MAP and not MAF. MAP is more accurate becasue it gives you a truer indication of the load on the engine. The FTC also can adjust timing. The negative is that it can be difficult to tune. gman knows and that's why he recommends the SAFCII. It's really your call but expect a steeper learning curve at first on the FTC.

Cool thanks man and gman too for you guys input. . . I'll let you guys know how it will go when I start this. . . I most likley will need some help. . . hahaha I hope you guys don't mind me asking you guys for help later on

[StockSolara]

O yeah I forgot to mention I have the 2JZ MAF. . . Have you guys tried tuning with that MAF? I would think it's a little harder since you have more room to do things

[gman]

That's right I remember you picked up the tt maf, that made my tune easier. It is overkill but closer to being proper than the stock one.
By the way one thing Paul forgot to mention was the upgrade to injectors. Hit up trd4life and see if he can get you out some n/a supra injectors- they flow about 310cc.
You can call your local Toyota dealer give them your vin # and ask the parts dept if you have afrs or o2s. Yes you prob have afrs since you are CA spec, so am I.
I am likely going to take a break from tuning and visiting SG so I will help out when I visit.
Paul makes some good points as well and he can guide you very well.
Good luck though and it sounds like you are studying, that is good. Have fun.
Gerard

[DatSRBoi]

Sorry for bring up an old post. But I jsut ordered a SAFC2 and hoping one day to run into this SS module too. Seems allot of work. Im new at this and having to go through all this since 4psi was too much for my car and now im having to do major work to just to keep it daily driven safely.