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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - killer system!. am i going to kill my solara?
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killer system!. am i going to kill my solara?

killer system!. am i going to kill my solara?

Postby JAYDEE23 » Mon Jul 11, 2005 5:55 am

ok i am in the procces of installing my subs now ..front stage is going in next couple of weeks

anyway i bought an old audio art hc100 (1100 x 1 at 1 ohm) and two
oz matrix elite subs (dual 4 ohms all wired in series for a 1 ohm final load)

this will leave me with the max rms suggested for each sub. these subs are supposed to hit hard and i am wondering what kind of experience you all have had with the plastic paneling through our solaras

i have a 2000 v6. i really didnt want to dynamat evrything but i hate rattle. i can stand them to some degree but if it gets excessive i will have to dynamat.

for thos of you running significant bass such as this setup how long does it take for you panelling to start rattling? have you dynamatted and if so where are the most important spots you have come across?

any input into deading trouble areas will be very much appreciated! thanks!
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Postby cam2Xrunner » Mon Jul 11, 2005 10:11 am

Yeah you are definitely going to have to deeaden plenty of areas. The most noticeable areas that make rattling are the trunk lid, the rear deck, the license plate :) ), and the panel that goes on the rear deck.

I'd highly suggest you save a bunch of money and get raammat60. Rick sells it for 99 bucks for 62.5 sq ft, but tel him I sent you to get it for 89 for 62.5 sq ft. It is Butyl based, not asphalt, and is 60 mils thick. Good stuff, cheap shipping too.

Very nice equipment you have aquired. The Oz subs sound great, and the Audioart amp is very nice.

When I completely deadened my camry I used about 200 sq ft for the entire vehicle.

Make sure to do the big 3, get a better battery, and start saving up for a high output alternator :)

Oh and put those subs in a sealed enclosure for best SQ.
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Postby Jackass-Jeff » Mon Jul 11, 2005 12:18 pm

You may want to resecure your spoiler first. 99-01 are infamous for rattling spoiler (passenger side).

Do you really want it wired to 1 ohm? I understand wiring for 1 ohm for SPL competitions, but for daily use... ouch! If you want it really loud, research "SNAILSHELL" enclosures. They are as clean as sealed enclosures but hit harder than bandpasses. I think the other name for it was 3rd Order bandpass (I'm not 100% sure, I forgot). If that type of power, you will not destroy your Solara, but you will find every loose bolt on it. You'll have to tune the box to a different frequency and you'll be ok.

Are you going for an Active or Passive setup? Any clue on what you're doing for the front stage yet?
1GR-FE ftw!
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Postby B_Master_Flash » Tue Jul 12, 2005 3:57 pm

Jackass-Jeff wrote:You may want to resecure your spoiler first. 99-01 are infamous for rattling spoiler (passenger side).

Do you really want it wired to 1 ohm? I understand wiring for 1 ohm for SPL competitions, but for daily use... ouch! If you want it really loud, research "SNAILSHELL" enclosures. They are as clean as sealed enclosures but hit harder than bandpasses. I think the other name for it was 3rd Order bandpass (I'm not 100% sure, I forgot). If that type of power, you will not destroy your Solara, but you will find every loose bolt on it. You'll have to tune the box to a different frequency and you'll be ok.

Are you going for an Active or Passive setup? Any clue on what you're doing for the front stage yet?


What exactly are the benefits of wiring different impedences? 1 ohm will get the most out of his amp and if he needs to reduce it he has a volume control and a gain to play with. I'd only wire different impedences if you absolutely need to lower output levels.

You're going to be working the crap out of you alt if you plan on using all of that wattage, it will hold out for a while but I'd look into a HO pretty soon, whatever you do just don't waste your time and money on a cap.
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Postby Jackass-Jeff » Tue Jul 12, 2005 5:41 pm

Higher the OHMs, the greater the resistance. I think the higher the ohms, the more stable it is. The lower it is, the less resistance and, therefore, unstable power. If you're sure you have enough juice at all times to power it and the amp is rated to be stable at that impedance, then you'll be ok. I know people that wire stuff to run at ridiculously low ohms and it sounded funky because the power wasn't stable enough to work properly.

HO ?
1GR-FE ftw!
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Postby B_Master_Flash » Wed Jul 13, 2005 2:00 am

Jackass-Jeff wrote:Higher the OHMs, the greater the resistance. I think the higher the ohms, the more stable it is. The lower it is, the less resistance and, therefore, unstable power.



Thats a compelling explination, but you're completely wrong
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Postby Jackass-Jeff » Wed Jul 13, 2005 7:57 am

B_Master_Flash wrote:
Jackass-Jeff wrote:Higher the OHMs, the greater the resistance. I think the higher the ohms, the more stable it is. The lower it is, the less resistance and, therefore, unstable power.



Thats a compelling explination, but you're completely wrong


explain then, oh master flash LOL :bday: <- Dunce cap. I was close, right? LOL I skipped reading the section on OHMS because i thought I knew... appearantly I didn't know enough. ;D

Ohm:
As said earlier, the ohm is the unit of measure of a device's opposition to the flow of current. One ohm of resistance will allow only one amp of current to flow through a circuit when one volt of electrical force is applied to the circuit. If I am redundant in some of the definitions, it is to help to make things clearer.

All power sources are designed to operate into some sort of a load. Power supplies are generally designed to maintain a given voltage into some given load. Let's say we have a 12 volt power supply that's designed to deliver 1 amp of current. If we connect a load that has a resistance of 24 ohms, this will allow 1/2 of the power supply's max current to flow through the load. If we connect a second 24 ohm load across the power supply's output terminals, the power supply will be delivering the maximum safe current output possible without damaging the supply. If we connect a third load across the supply, the output current will be 1.5 times as much as the supply can safely deliver (assuming that the supply can maintain it's rated voltage under the heavy load) and the supply will soon blow a fuse or fail. The same thing happens when you connect too low of an ohm load to an amplifier. Lower ohm loads can allow the amplifier to produce more output current (which results in more output power - to be discussed later) but too low of an ohm load will cause the amplifier to fail. The amplifier expects to 'see' a certain minimum resistance (ohms) to assure a limited maximum current flow at maximum output.

Since this is a site is supposed to explain car audio... Lets say we have a 100 watt (we'll cover 'watts' soon) amplifier and it can drive a minimum ohm load of 4 ohms. This means that it can produce 100 watts into a 4 ohm load and any lower ohm load will cause the amplifier to fail. To produce 100 watts, the amplifier will have to deliver 5 amps of current. To produce a current flow of 5 amps into a 4 ohm load, it will have to develop 20 volts across the load (the voltage at the speaker terminals at full power will be 20 volts). Don't let all of these numbers confuse you, I'll cover all of this extensively later in the site. Now, the reason for the numbers... If you enter 4 ohms and 20 volts in the calculator below, you'll see that the current flow is 5 amps. If you reduce the ohm load to 2 ohms, the current flow will double. Since the max safe current output is only 5 amps and the lower ohm load causes more than 5 amps to flow, the amplifier may well be damaged by the lower ohm load.

* Notice how current flow INCREASES as the voltage increases and resistance decreases. You should also notice how the current flow DECREASES as the voltage decreases and resistance increases.

1GR-FE ftw!
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Postby JAYDEE23 » Wed Jul 13, 2005 11:08 am

well i had cdt hd62 setup for my front stage but i will be trying some aura mr62's(old school neo comps..still new!). hd prolly better but??

i had the auras in my saturn and they did well but i think because of the construction (poor) of the door they lacked quite a bit. solara door seems much better built

i am curious to see what the auras can do in a good door sealed up well with deadener etc..

as far as running active i have not decided yet.. i never have run active except for the alpine 9813 two ways set up but ive never run a bandpass channel..the 9813 does bandbass if you run it 3way correct? thinking about running the silk tweets of the hu (i believe the 9813 3ways the internal amp channels also)

bandpass to punch 200 ix (another old school pc) to the aura 6.5"'s

and low pass to the 100hc to the oz's

has pontential to be a sweet setup

i am still studying eq-ing as i seem to have trouble noticing those tiny changes in the music.and determining what sound best..then through in the time alignment and xovers and and and arhhg!!.i honestly dont know how the hell you sq guys do it..

as far as deadener in my saturn i went the cheap route and actually deadened with homedepot roofing asphalt. i worked. stunk for a few days and never fell off but this time i will go for the good stuff. i had decided to stick to the dynamat as i dont really have time to keep up on which deadener has been upgraded to retain its stick but i will look into the raamatt again..it is mentioned on elite car audio quite a bit and is cheaper than dynamatt right?

200 sq ft for a car..did you do roof and floor? thats alot!
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Postby Jackass-Jeff » Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:14 pm

If I think he is who I think he is (LOL) then his whole Camry looked like it was ready to have chickens put in it for baking! It looked like aluminum foil all over the place lol
1GR-FE ftw!
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Postby B_Master_Flash » Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:43 pm

Jackass-Jeff wrote:
B_Master_Flash wrote:
Jackass-Jeff wrote:Higher the OHMs, the greater the resistance. I think the higher the ohms, the more stable it is. The lower it is, the less resistance and, therefore, unstable power.



Thats a compelling explination, but you're completely wrong


explain then, oh master flash LOL :bday: <- Dunce cap. I was close, right? LOL I skipped reading the section on OHMS because i thought I knew... appearantly I didn't know enough. ;D


[/quote]

the output impedence ratings on amplifiers have to do with the engineering of the amp. A 1 ohm stable amp is engineered differently than a 4 ohm stable amp (lower voltage transformer and usualy more transistors). Neither one is more "stable" at their rated voltage. You seem to be refering to competitors that try to get the most out of their amps by running them at impedences below the amps rating, like .67 or .5 ohms on a 1 ohm stable amp, which can become unstable if you dont do it right.
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Postby JAYDEE23 » Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:48 pm

the ohm issue is a s follows

more ohms=more resistance=less power

less ohms=less resistance=more power

running speakers in parallel lowers ohms/resistance

running speakers in series increases ohms/resistance

in my case this particular amp makes its real power at 1/2 ohm per channel so if i present both channels(bridged) with a 1 ohm load (four 2 ohm voice coild all ran parallel) then each channel will see 1/2 ohm and put out its highest(still being stable) power. i can run it lower but it now become unstable and will get really hot and prolly fry the amp.

jl audio's site under tutorials has good diagrams and expainations

also good reading on

eac.com

bcae1.com

12volt.com
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Postby cam2Xrunner » Wed Jul 13, 2005 1:12 pm

Jackass-Jeff wrote:If I think he is who I think he is (LOL) then his whole Camry looked like it was ready to have chickens put in it for baking! It looked like aluminum foil all over the place lol


You talking about me? lol

I had my 99 Camry completely gutted at one point covered in deadening. Did you go to the San Diego meet with rapsux (another gen4)
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Postby Jackass-Jeff » Wed Jul 13, 2005 1:19 pm

cam2Xrunner wrote:
Jackass-Jeff wrote:If I think he is who I think he is (LOL) then his whole Camry looked like it was ready to have chickens put in it for baking! It looked like aluminum foil all over the place lol


You talking about me? lol

I had my 99 Camry completely gutted at one point covered in deadening. Did you go to the San Diego meet with rapsux (another gen4)


Yes. We were the ones that conveniently got lost and ended up at Sycuan lol
1GR-FE ftw!
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Postby WunLoudSolara » Wed Jul 13, 2005 1:34 pm

My system beats the hell out of my solara and the only rattles I have is my spare tire well and my trunk lid. My spoiler used to rattle the worst but I just put weater-stripping around the inside of it and it got rid of the noise. But as far as flexing, the top of my trunk, rear window, roof, sunroof, and windshield move about 3/4 of an inch, but no noise comes from them.

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Postby cam2Xrunner » Wed Jul 13, 2005 2:02 pm

Jackass-Jeff wrote:
cam2Xrunner wrote:
Jackass-Jeff wrote:If I think he is who I think he is (LOL) then his whole Camry looked like it was ready to have chickens put in it for baking! It looked like aluminum foil all over the place lol


You talking about me? lol

I had my 99 Camry completely gutted at one point covered in deadening. Did you go to the San Diego meet with rapsux (another gen4)


Yes. We were the ones that conveniently got lost and ended up at Sycuan lol


HAHAH cool

We gotta do another SD meet sometime. A bunch of Solaras and an XRunner this time instead of a gen4 camry :drinking:
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