Decisions, decisions?

[~Spadwaller~]

I'm having a tough decision, I have a choice of Alpine type X or MB Quart Q series what should I go for? or something else perphaps?

[cam2Xrunner]

MB Quarts are the better components but the Type-X's are really good too. About twice the price for the MB Quarts as the Type-X(online prices)

What kind of amp are you using?

[~Spadwaller~]

No idea, I was thinking of going all the same brand components. The seller was offering me a 4 channel MB Quart amp for 400 bucks. I mainly listen to Rock so I prefer clarity than volume, any suggestions?

[cam2Xrunner]

That MBQuart amp has turn on/off pops and noises, and they are much cheaper than that on crutchfield. Nice amp's if you can live with the turn on noises.

Couple of questions-Do you have any gear yet(like headunit's, etc)

What all are you looking for? Headunit, sub, amps, sound deadener, etc...

What's the budget for what you want to do?

[~Spadwaller~]

Right now I only have the Eclipse avn-5435 with stock sound system. So i'm looking to building a sound system around what I listen to on this unit, and since I can get wholesale prices money isn't that much of a factor. Thanks, helping me out.

[cam2Xrunner]

What are all the brands you get wholesale pricing on?

[~Spadwaller~]

The place that I work at handles brands such as Infinity, Orion, Alpine, Kenwood, Pioneer, MB Quart, Sherwood, Kicker, JL, JBL,, some RockfordFosgate and Hifonics

[NVDIS1]

hey how much 4 a set of jl xr 6.5 & a 12 w7 &300/4 & 1000/1? looking to get components asap, focals r blown also how much 4 type rf components 6.5?
http://members.cardomain.com/rgztoy

[cam2Xrunner]

Here's what I would do.(supposing you want to go all out, and budget isn't a factor)

Get the MB Quart 4" QSD's, then get the 6.5" midbass QSD addon. Install the 6.5" mids in the doors, heavily dampened. You guys probably carry Dynamat Extreme, use that if you get a good price on it, otherwise use raammat60(90 bucks for 62.5 sq ft). Make a mounting adapter out of MDF wood.

Make some kickpods for the 4" midrange and have them pointed as much as you can towards your ears.

On the Kickpods, make sure they are lined on the inside with dynamat, as well as non-hardening modeling clay(adds weight), stuff the kickpods with polyfill

Read this for more info on kickpanels
http://www.elitecaraudio.com/article.php?sid=20

With the tweeters I would rec. placing them in the A Pillars 2" above the higgest point of the dash. Have them pointed directly at each other.

Here's some good info on aiming the speakers in the kick's, originally posted by Rick of www.raamaudio.com on Elite Car Audio forum.

1) Put your front seats where you intend to either drive the car or where you will have them if you plan to compete, this is very very important. I am talking about for and aft, height, seat back tilt angle. If not competing then where you will drive the car at and the passenger side the same.
If you are competing in car audio comps, then all the way back and low but even with the passenger side for height, lean the seats back a bit but not real far to make them uncomfortable.

2) Sit in your seat as you would driving or listening as per above, make sure you are correctly placed, if you tend to drive leaning way forward like some do, you should adjust how you sit, better for your posture anyway, lol, lean back in the seat

3) Have somebody you trust to do this correctly, critically important. Roll the windows up, have them look very very carefully at where the entrance to your eardrum is on your window side ear, left ear, mark it on the window or on the pillar with a small spot of tape.

4) Move to the other front seat and do the same except of course on the right ear this time.

5) Ok to get out of the car now Measure 5" forward and 1.5" down from the spot marked for your ear entrance points on each side of the car, should be two marks on the car now, one for your ears and one forward and down as above.

6) Build some temp baffles for the speakers or the ones you will use, what I do. Have the tweeters mounted very low and to the door side of the baffle, the woofers go furthest forward and low as well.

7) Aim the woofers(midbasses) exactly at the forward and down spot on the glass you marked.
This is the sweet spot, instead of fighting the glass reflections you are using them to your advantage. The right speaker will reflect off the left glass into your left ear and help equalize the sound you hear from both speakers, seems odd but it works, exceptionally well. I beat a prior world champ twice in two months, two seperate installs in my truck and two totally seperate comp installs in his truck and a customers truck using these methods of alignment.

Take a kitchen towel and put it behind the baffels can cover the back of the speakers, then do some serious listening tests to see if you need to align them differently but this should be pretty darn accurate.

9) Be very carefull when glassing the kicks as the glass can pull them out of alignment when drying as tends to shrink so mount the baffles very well before glassing.

10) Wire the midbass on the passenger out of phase with the drivers side midbass, you may lose some midbass output but the sub can help make up for that quite well when tuned properly, better yet to have some midbasses in the doors.


For those not building kicks here is a simple install plan that works quite well, has been used alot in competion cars though the gentleman I learned how to build kicks does not like pillar tweeters at all

1) use the door locations for the midbasses, both in phase.
2) tweeters in the A pillars firing directly at each other, as wide apart as possible, both at the same exact height and about 2" above the highest point on the dash. Wire both tweeters out of phase(pos and neg wires reversed)
3) Use a dash mat, fugly but they work.

In fact, a dash mat will improve just about any install ever done, including kick panels, have one in my truck, been there for years

As far as amps go out of the brands you listed, the nicest ones are going to be the JL amps.

Now supposing budget isn't too important this is what I would to. Get the 300/4 for the tweeters and 4" midrange. Then get a 300/2 for the 6.5" Midbass speakers. You will wire these active, meaning each channel powers it's own driver.

If I recall correctly the Eclipse AVN unit's do not have onboard crossovers, no worries though, because the JL amps have very flexible onboard crossovers and will handle the job nicely.

For subs I would rec. 2 JL12W6's ran off a JL 1000/1, or if you prefer one sub, go with a 13W7 and the same 1000/1

That would be an awesome system

[SpeedSTARs]

^^^I agree. ... That is one heck of a awesome setup cam2Xrunner. I drink to that.

[cam2Xrunner]

Speaking of drinking, I'm freaking drunk right now myself. Been hittin up the Heineken from the Kegerator. Had nekid chics in the Jacuzzi too

Life is gooood

[~Spadwaller~]

Im taking Cams advice and going for this system.

[cam2Xrunner]

Man that's gonna be so awesome, you gotta let me listen to that when you are all done. So you plan on installing yourself or do you need some reccomendations on some good installers?

[~Spadwaller~]

Man that's gonna be so awesome, you gotta let me listen to that when you are all done. So you plan on installing yourself or do you need some reccomendations on some good installers?

First things first I gotta get all the components. (counting the days till pay day comes around)