Amp/Sub Setup

[WJN333]

Ok so i searched and found info on where to run the wires. Some info anyways. I picked up a Kenwood KAC-7201 Amp with a Audiobahn 12" sealed box sub second hand. No documentation. I have since purchased the unit that will attach to the two rear spakers to get signal and the RCA cable that will hook that up to the amp. And i have a few questions.

1. I have a 10 gauge wire kit to power the amp, is this guage large enough for the load?

2. What guage speaker cable should I run from the amp to the sub?

3. The amp and the sub will live in the trunk, what is the best way to get the power cable from the batt to the trunk? or at least into the cab and I have found the posting from there.

4. Can I mount the amp to the sub box (sealed)?

5. Suggestions?

Im not entirely new to this i hooked up a sub in my truck before I sold it. Currently the stereo setup is completely stock. 2003 soloara SE, with JBL system. I may put in new speakers at some point, but for now just the sub amp.

Thanks
Bill

[cam2Xrunner]

I would run at least 8 gauge, maybe even 4 gauge, but 8 will be enough. 10 gauge is definitely too small.

What ohm configuration is the sub?

12 gauge speaker wire is good, but you can use up to 16 gauge if that's what you got.

You will want to run the battery wire through the grommet that is in your firewall on the drivers side, near the brake master cylinder. Run it alongside the doorsill(under) and then wire through the trunk under the backseat(you might have to remove the seat)

It's not typically recomended to mount the amp to the sub, instead mount it to the back of the rear seat.

[bassthrive]

^ ditto ^

since you are staying stock with your h/u, does the rca line level converter you're going to hook into your rears have an amp turn-on lead? or perhaps there is a way to tap into the stock JBL turn-on lead? that might be something to consider before you start the project. sorry i am creating more problems, but every system i've ever installed has been with an aftermarket h/u.

[WJN333]

Update: I returned the 10 ga. wire kit and got the 4 ga with 50 amp fuse. better to do it right once. Im having trouble locating 12 ga speaker wire, however i do have access to 12 ga. high grade electrical wire at work, this wire can be substituted? I also did some homework. These are the units i have now, with specs.

Amp Specs:
Kenwood KAC-7201
http://www.epinions.com/content_148067815044

Sub Specs:
Audiobahn AW1251T
12” NATURAL SOUND WOOFER
45 oz. Strontium Magnet
Power Handling: 400 watts RMS
Frequency Response: 24Hz - 1kHz
Efficiency: 92.1 dB
PHAT Foam Surround
Non-Pressed, Non-Transfer Paper Cone
KM3’ Coated for Virtually No Cone Distortion
2” 4-Layer ASV Voice Coil
Dual 4 Ohm
2 or 8 Ohm Operation
Mounting Dimensions: Depth; 5 1/4”
Hole; 10 7/8” Diameter; 12 1/2”
MULT-CONNECT Lug Lock Terminals

Ok so i went to install the sub grill and removed the sub from the box. Currently the 4 Ohm coils are wired in series. Which should yeild a resistance of 8 ohms, and it does (I metered it). I have the option of wiring these in parallel, this should yeild a resistance of 2 ohms, if my math is right... I have to re-wire anyways cause whomever did it originally used the wrong guage then twisted the wires and wrapped in e-tape to join them . Sorry big no no at work. Should i wire for a 2 ohm or 8 ohm system? advantages, disadvantages?

I know im gonna need to run the amp controll lead from the stock head unit. I have the diagrams on the way from crutchfield. Blue wire on the harness, right? I was wondering if i put a switch on that lead, would that allow me to controll when the sub/amp operated durring stereo operation? So like at drive-ins when im running the stereo off the batt, i could shut down the amp. If so anyone know the volts/amps running in that cable, cant be much.

After looking at the specs for the sub/amp, is this pairing ok? I dont want to damage either unit. Im not going to run the sub off the batt, if all else fails i will disconnect the amp power when running the stereo off the bat. Do I need a capacitor?

Finally, my thanks to cam2Xrunner, bassthrive, and the rest who help out with this project. I hope to install this weekend. I have somewhat of an electrical background and can follow instructions, again thanks for the help.

Bill

? Recap
1. high grade 12 ga. electrical wire at work, this wire can be substituted?
2. Should i wire for a 2 ohm or 8 ohm system? advantages, disadvantages?
3. Blue wire? controll switch? Specs?
4. These two will play together ok?
5. Do I need a capacitor?

[cam2Xrunner]

You know what, I just noticed that the amp is only stable to 4 ohms when bridged. That sub will not work with that amp unless you just run it off one channel.

My suggestion if possible is to return the sub and get something else(preferably not Audiobahn,no offense) Is that a pssibility? Can you get a refund?(I can show you some really goods subs online for probably the same price of the Audiobahn)

And you don't NEED 12 gauge speaker wire, 14 gauge will work as will 16 gauge.

[WJN333]

Unfortunatly I bought these in a set from a private party, 175 for both. Cant return, I can maybe sell just the sub. I had a thought today that maybe I dont have to bridge the sub though. If I set the amp on mono and wire one coil to channel one and the other to channel two of the amp, then both channels of the amp would be utilized, both running a 4 ohm coil. would this work? If not ill take you up on that offer to show me some other subs that will work with this amp. Or i can unload both units and start again, can probably get more than 175 for them.

I think i have some 14 or 16 ga. wire

Capacitor?
Switched controll lead?

Thanks Again
Bill

[cam2Xrunner]

I would try to unload the sub if possible. The amp is decent, you can use that.

Let me know a budget and I'll throw out some sub ideas.

[cam2Xrunner]

Capacitor?
Switched controll lead?

Thanks Again
Bill

Nope, don't need a capacitor. However look into upgrading the big 3
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ultima ... 5;t=007801

[cam2Xrunner]

The amp has speaker level inputs so you should be able to just tee off the rear speaker line and run that into the amp for the signal.

You will have to find the ACC turn on lead. It will be a very thin grey wire coming from the back of the headunit.

[jsie]

1. high grade 12 ga. electrical wire at work, this wire can be substituted?

For subwoofer as in your application…. OK, but not really recommended.

If it for full range or especially hi freq., that would be absolutely not. Electrical wire is not design to carry higher frequency signal (anything above 60Hz). Speaker wires are design to carry much broader frequency range than regular electrical wires. For your curiosity the reason behind it, you can browse Internet; use keyword “skin effect”.

[WJN333]

Can i install a switch in the ACC turn on lead? To give me more controll over when the sub/amp operates.

cam2Xrunner:
The budget wouldn't be that substantial, but ill let you know. Ive already got the device to get the signal off the rear speakers, so im good there. Hopefully ill have some 4 ga. left over after the install for the big 3. Much thanks

jsie:
Thanks for the info, your right im curious. Ill check out “skin effect”

[WJN333]

Its gonna take some time to unload the sub on craiglist, but lets say in the neighborhood of 100 bucks, what can you reccomend. Cheaper would be great, but if it takes a little more to get quality that will work well with this amp thats fine too.

Also who makes good speakers that are reasonably priced? That way I can watch for sales/deals and stuff.

Thanks,
Bill

[cam2Xrunner]

http://www.cardomain.com/item/IDSID12V3D2
Should come out to 136 or so shipped with the 15% off. That would be my first pic.

The eD 11Kv2 to the 16Kv2, any one of these would work well with that amp(bigger the better )

http://edesignaudio.com/product.php?cid=1&cur=USD
(just be sure to get dual 2 ohm version)

If you can find an Oz Audio Matrix Elite for ~150 that would be a good choice.

For 100 bucks also check out the Ascendant Audio Atlas.
http://www.ascendantaudio.com/

As far as front component speakers, a set of MB Quart PCE 216's(or QSD's) will be nice. But once again, need a budget on that to know what to shoot for.

[WJN333]

On your frist choice, should i be concerned that the Sub's Recommended RMS Power: 250W and the amp's Bridged (4 Ohms)(1kHz, 0.8% THD)..............460 Watts x 1? Or is that figure listed in the amp specs the peak power, under the sub's 500W peak power rating? Has great customer reviews and fits the budget Just wanna make sure i dont cook it if I run the amp to its capability.

Does it come with a grill?


As for the speakers i have some time to save up, I just want something reasonable. In the past Ive done some stuff over the counter at good guys, best buy, etc. I think the last ones for my truck were polks. If there is something out there that is just as good or better at competative prices, im interested. I dont really need extravegence. Sorry to be so ambiguous.

Thanks

PS. Just made 50 "Regular Solara Guy"

[cam2Xrunner]

You would have to keep the gains down a bit, but your amp won't be stressing so that's a good thing. Headroom is always good.