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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Death of a Solara
Stock talk about the Generation 2 and 2.5 Toyota Solara which was released in 2004-2007

Death of a Solara

Postby TW85 » Tue Mar 08, 2005 9:59 pm

There are a few things.

Hydroplaning is when your tires lose contact with the road surface due to them not being able to displace water quickly enough. A "wave" builds and lifts the tires off the road surface. Factors that can contribute to hydroplaning are too great of a speed, not having the proper tire pressure, poor tread design, and too little tread.

Chances are you did not hydroplane the entire time. Knowing when you have stopped hydroplaning and when you can react is a start, and knowing what to do in your reaction is the key. Hitting the brakes or not using controlled steering (rather, you jerk the wheel in one direction or another) can worsen the situation. It is difficult to pull out of a skid at city speeds; obviously it is even more difficult at highway speeds. If you are understeering--the car is continuing forward regardless of the steering angle--you have to slow down to regain steering control. The front tires have lost the traction needed to steer the car. Oversteering is a completely different situation--your rear end has lost traction and swung out in one direction or another. To pull out can require loss of speed and counter steering the counter steer, and in some cases, locking all four wheels will give the quickest end to the spinout. Highly experienced drivers can use throttle on RWD cars to assist in regaining control. Loss of traction, whether understeer or oversteer, happens quickly and you have to acquire the feel for detecting it (your butt is one indicator, feel of the steering is the other) and taking preventive action.

I know I offered very general information. You cannot read text and expect to be able to pull out of or feel the oncoming of a skid. Take a hands on car control course that covers everything from simple straight line braking to skids on a skid pad to implementing everything learned on a single, high speed course.
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Postby online » Wed Mar 09, 2005 5:29 pm

Understeer and oversteer are the industry's way to rate/qualify the handling characteristics of the the vehicle/suspension. It has nothing to do with describing a driver understeering or oversteering

Hope this helps
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Postby TW85 » Wed Mar 09, 2005 8:13 pm

online wrote:Understeer and oversteer are the industry's way to rate/qualify the handling characteristics of the the vehicle/suspension. It has nothing to do with describing a driver understeering or oversteering

Hope this helps


Huh?

Oversteer and understeer are two forms of a skid. Check. Okay.

The terms oversteer and understeer are used to describe the handling characteristics of a vehicle and suspension. Check. Okay.

Oversteer and understeer are two terms used to describe the type of skids a driver may experience and should learn to pull out of or prevent. Understeer is when the demand on the front wheels is too great for the available traction and the vehicle "plows." Oversteer is when the rear loses traction and swings out to one side or the other. A driver, if they want, can intentionally cause oversteer or understeer. Check. Okay.

Again, how do the two terms have nothing to do with describing a driver understeering and oversteering?
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Postby Down2TheC » Wed Mar 16, 2005 3:17 pm

And if anyone experiences oversteer in a front-wheel drive car we'll have to rewrite the laws of physics...
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Postby TW85 » Sat Mar 19, 2005 8:37 pm

Oversteer will happen in every vehicle. Like understeer, it is a function of speed, steering angle, and available traction. The rear tires can break loose regardless of the vehicle being RWD or FWD.
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Postby Down2TheC » Sun Mar 20, 2005 10:15 am

I stand corrected, you're right. It would be really, really tough to do in our car though. Turn so tight that the back end slips out from under you. Even if it happens, your FWD will pull the rest of the car along anyway (if they have traction). In the extremes of snow driving I've only seen the opposite. Turn the wheel and you're still sledding forward.
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Postby TW85 » Mon Mar 21, 2005 10:47 am

down2thec wrote:It would be really, really tough to do in our car though.


It is not as difficult as you think. :)
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Postby cablemn » Mon Mar 21, 2005 3:24 pm

You never posted pics of the car. Do you have any. I'm curious to see how bad the accident was.
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Postby silversurfer220 » Fri Mar 25, 2005 5:24 pm

Would VSC have helped? When I slid on ice, VSC kicked me back to where I should have been.
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Postby Down2TheC » Sat Mar 26, 2005 5:27 am

I know VSC would try but until wheels touch pavement, probably not successfully (he was hydroplaning)
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Postby sleeper solara » Mon Mar 28, 2005 5:44 pm

alrite...sorry i havnt posted in so long
my car is totalled. the thing that sucks is i only had ~6500 miles on it but insurance cant verify it so they say i put the average of 15000 miles on it. so im getting jipped a little on money there. im basically getting $18500 after taxes and deductible. if someone could tell me how to post pictures of it i can (or if someone would be willing to post them for me i can email em to u)
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Postby junest » Mon Mar 28, 2005 6:12 pm

Sorry to hear about your Solara. At least you were able to get something from insurance. Good luck with your new ride.
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Postby Down2TheC » Thu Mar 31, 2005 2:45 pm

So you're saying that if our car is wrecked, there's no way to see the ODO? Toyota has to be able to get that info from the flash somehow! I'm sure that the ODO has to be persistant by law in order to avoid fraud. Sorry about the ride. May your next car go 200K.
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Postby mmcdonald » Tue Apr 05, 2005 5:53 am

Having managed a body shop I can tell you that anything can be fixed. To total a car means that the estimated cost of the repairs approaches the "total" value of the car before the accident close enough that the insurance company deems it not worthy of repair. So it is up to the insurance company. Percentage of total value depends on the insurance company and the age and value of the car.

We repaired a brand new Jag XJ that had been hit perpendicularly in the right rear corner and bent the coach all the way up to the front doors. We repaired it. A lady rolled her new XJS and flipped it, and we repaired it (she bought another one while the first one was being repaired!) But we totalled smaller cars with less damage since they just didn't have the value.

My guess is that since this is a new car, the insurance company will not total this car, and that you will have to take it with the repairs. If you decide to sell it, that is up to you.

We repaired an MGB (late 1970's) that had lost the entire front end, so you can imagine the whole steering set up had to be rebuilt. Same problem you are having.

Glad to hear only your feelings have been hurt.
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Postby mmcdonald » Tue Apr 05, 2005 5:54 am

Sorry, didn't read your last post. Totalled eh, that must have been a lot mroe damage than you described in the first post.
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