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Whining During Acceleration

Whining During Acceleration

Postby NeFaRiOuS_SLE » Sun Jul 23, 2006 1:22 pm

Hi all:

I recently noticed that when I accelerate from a slight roll to almost redline (e.g. when you're going 35 and want to beat the yellow light), there's a whirring sound that sounds like dental drills when I floor it. How can I resolve it?

Much appreciated,

-Ed
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Postby theprodigy79 » Sun Jul 23, 2006 6:52 pm

Sounds like alternator whine... Check your grounds, make sure they are secured to a clean, bare metal surface.

Use these steps to test your setup...

#1 Verify that all levels are set properly.

#2 With the system turned off, unplug the RCA inputs to the amplifier.

#3 Start the vehicle and turn the system on. If the noise is gone go to step 8. If the noise is still present, it is coming from the amp or the speaker wiring. Continue.

#4 Turn the system off and disconnect the speaker harness.

#5 Start the engine and verify that no noise is present. In a few rare instances, I have actually heard speakers reproduce noise without being connected to an amplifier. This noise was being induced by power cables that were very close to the speaker wire. If you do have this type of noise, reroute the appropriate speaker lead and go to step 3.

#6 With the speaker harness still disconnected, check to make sure there are no shorts between the speaker leads and the chassis of the vehicle. A shorted negative speaker lead will create a ground loop by establishing a second audio ground reference point. If you do have a short, trace the wire out and repair it then go to step 3.

#7 With the RCA inputs and speaker harness still disconnected from the amplifier, use your VOM to measure from the shield of the RCA jacks on the amp to the chassis of the vehicle. This reading should not be a direct short (100 ohms or more is acceptable.) If this reading does indicate a direct short, you might have a defective amp and should contact the manufacturer for verification. (Note that there are a few "inexpensive" amps or boosters on the market that have their audio ground and electrical ground commoned internally. For units of this type, the information in this article will be of very little value.)

#8 If you've made it here, you know that the amplifier and speaker wiring are okay.

#9 Connect the accessories in front of the amp (crossovers, equalizers, etc.) one at a time and check for alternator whine. When each device is tested, there should be nothing plugged into the input of that device. In this way, we will work toward the source unit piece by piece. Be sure to turn the system power off before connecting or disconnecting any cables or accessories.

#10 Repeat step 9 until all accessories have been tested.

#11 If a particular accessory is causing noise, try disconnecting it's power ground wire. Go to step 9.

#12 Now it's time to connect the source unit. Do that now and test for noise.

#13 If noise is present, try unplugging the antenna. If the noise goes away, you will need to use an antenna isolator. This little gismo opens the shield wire of the coax to eliminate the ground loop caused by the ground at the antenna.

#14 If you still have noise, try connecting the source unit's ground wire in another location,. preferably as close to the source unit as possible.

#15 Does the noise vary in amplitude when you adjust the volume control? If it does, the problem is probably power line related and not a ground loop. If this is the case, run the source unit's B+ (yellow) wire directly to the positive terminal of the battery. If this doesn't do the trick, you will probably have to use a power line filter on the source unit's B+ (Yel) and Ignition (Red) wires.
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