Anti-Sway Bar DIY: Gen 4 Camry Gen 1 Solara

[MentatGom]

Gen 4 Camry/ES300/Gen 1 Solara Anti-Sway Bar Do It Yourself

Estimated Time Of Completion: ~2.5 hours

Tools / Materials:
hydrolic jack
adjustable jackstands (2)
torque wrench
socket wrench
21mm 6-point deep socket
14mm 6-point shallow socket
12mm 6-point shallow socket
10mm 6-point shallow socket
socket extension
12mm 6-point boxed end wrench
12mm 12-point boxed end wrench
5mm hex wrench
WD-40
Yellow Gasline PTFE Tape (Durable Teflon Tape)


Note: Spray the anti-sway bar links and brackets with WD-40 at least a day before you plan on working, it really helps.

Rear Anti-Sway Bar Removal:
1.Loosen wheel nuts (21mm)
2.Raise the rear of the car (jack up by the dimple in center of frame crossmember)
3.Support with jackstands (at appropriate rigid frame points)
4.Remove rear wheels
5.Remove rear muffler heat sheild (10mm and extension, 3 screws, 1 clip, near middle of car)

6.Disconnect left and right anti-sway bar links from the bar (14mm)
7.Remove the anti-sway bar brackets and bushings (12mm socket)
8.Remove the anti-sway bar

Rear Sway Bars:

Before:

After:


Front Anti-Sway Bar Removal:
1.Loosen wheel nuts (21mm)
2.Raise the front of the car (jack up by the dimple in center of frame crossmember)
3.Support with jackstands (at appropriate rigid frame points)
4.Remove front wheels
5.Disconnect left and right anti-sway bar links from the bar (14mm)
6.Remove the anti-sway bar brackets and bushings (12mm 6-point boxed end wrench for initial loosening, use 12mm 12-point to remove once loose, note this is a very tight space)
7.Remove the anti-sway bar (must remove the bar from the left side of the vehicle, while under the vehicle slide the bar slightly left then push it up into the slight gap available, then proceed to slide it left and out)

Front Sway Bars:

Before:


After:


Installation of your hardware is just the reverse process of removal.

Additional Notes: To prevent bushing binding that results in squeaking, wrap the anti-sway bars with the teflon tape at the bushing mount points.


The 5mm hex wrench can help out if pushing the endlink through the anti-sway bar end is a bit tight, you can use it to thread the endlink through.

When working on the front anti-sway bar, turning the steering wheel left or right can help give you additional clearance and room to work in.
After the car has been lowered back down go ahead and try to tighten up the endlink bolts again, as you will have more clearance to fit your wrench in.

Torque Specifications for installation:
Anti-sway bar links = 29 ft/lbs (same front and rear)
Anti-sway bar brackets = 14 ft/lbs (same front and rear)
Wheel nuts = 80 ft/lbs

A DIY by Gom

[SleeperSolara]

Nice man.

Also to add to that even though you torque them down right they can still be undone some how.
Don't ask me how but it happened to me.....
So use Thread lock on them.

[TripleBlack]

Excellent. Thanks, man.

So, where'd ya buy the new bars? =)

[Hsakuragi]

Nice,

But for rear..

step 1, 4 and 5 is not necessary for some people..(like me)

Good job though.

[Jai_Jai_Binks]

Additional Notes: To prevent bushing binding that results in squeaking, wrap the anti-sway bars with the teflon tape at the bushing mount points.

Great suggestion.

[TripleBlack]

Okay, but seriously .. where did you buy the bars? I've been searching here, there, and everywhere. I don't know why I'm having such trouble finding these things. =(

[xavier]

check the for sale section. THere is a TRD kit and RSB for sale right now

[MentatGom]

I use Whiteline parts from http://globalperformanceparts.com/
Swaybar part numbers are:

BTF38 - this is the front swaybar (bushings and some grease included)
BTR39 - this is the rear swaybar (bushings and some grease included)

If you only need bushings:
SPF1132-20K - this is the rear poly bushings
SPF1132-24K - this is the front poly bushings

[TripleBlack]

check the for sale section. THere is a TRD kit and RSB for sale right now

I see some strut bars for sale, but no sway bars...

I use Whiteline parts from http://globalperformanceparts.com/
Swaybar part numbers are:

BTF38 - this is the front swaybar (bushings and some grease included)
BTR39 - this is the rear swaybar (bushings and some grease included)

If you only need bushings:
SPF1132-20K - this is the rear poly bushings
SPF1132-24K - this is the front poly bushings

Thank you! Perfect. Wonderful.

[n3985]

Sorry to bump a thread but I need some help. My friend has a 99 SE V6 and asked me to install a Whiteline RSb for him. I had him drive on to ramps since I fiugred it is easier than jacking the car up. Removing the stock RSB was simple enough, but we can't get the new one in. The bar hits the protrusion on the gas tank, the shield part held on by a 10mm bolt. Any tips on the install? Thanks

[RichD978]

its all about angling. Try to slide it in diagonally

[Nyyankees3511]

Try taking the muffler off the rubber holders and that will make it way easier.

[n3985]

We tried angling it diagonally. From what I understand, the bar needs to be on "top" of that gas tank protrusion, but the new bar is too thick to slide in. So is the only way to just play with it? wiggle it here and there?

[MentatGom]

So did you remove that heat shield? If so then it should not be a problem. That protrusion itself is flexible, though I experienced no fitment issues. That is really the last positioning I did with the swaybar. I slid it through from the driver's side of the car, getting it through the suspension links, then over the exhaust, and then the links on the passenger side. Once it was in position I lifted it up and actually set the bar on the side opposite that protrusion while I bracketed it up to the chassis. Then all that's left to do are the endlinks.